wm 


'\ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


/. 


<i^  j^?  ^  A 


/, 

^ 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


IM  IIM 
IIIIIM 


1^ 

•-  !■■ 

^    1^    ill  2.0 


111= 

U    III  1.6 


■<y  »V' 


O 


/ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEPSTER,N.Y.  14SB0 

(716)  872-4503 


'^.1^ 


^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canad;->7Y  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  rjproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


~7    Coloured  covers/ 
_iZJ    Couverture  de  couleur 


D 
D 
D 


Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagee 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet6es  ou  piquees 


D 
D 

n 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


D 


Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


"n    Showthrough/ 
)L}    Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualit^  in^gale  de  Timpression 


D 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


D 


Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 


D 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  ae  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


D 
D 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponiL  '-^ 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6X6  filmdes  6  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

The  Nova  Scotia 
Legislative  Library 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grSce  d  la 
g6n6ro8it6  de: 

The  Nova  Scotia 
Legislative  Library 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet6  de  l'exemplaire  filmi,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contest  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —»•  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  film6s  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  i  icluded  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  A  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

/ 


I< 


f' 


i       ^ 


UNDER  PfcWALTY  OF  THE  LAW 

THE  ATTACHED  LETTER  18  NOT  TO  BE  OPENED  BY 
ANY  ONE  EXCEPT  BY  THE  PURCHASER  OF  THIS  BOOK. 


r>» 


No.  I.  THE    UNIQUE  KIES.  Sept.  i,  1888. 

50  ««enti«  a  ]\'iiniber— iNHuecl  <tuarterl)     ^ubNcriptioiiN,  §3  a  Vear. 

National  Literary  Bureau,  ya  John  Street,  New  York. 


■':  V- ■'^^^^^^^■**— •■■■  W 


DR.       HENRY       F.       MUNRO 

NOVA    SCOTIA 
COLLECTION 


The  Next  Number  of 


"THE  UNIQUE  SERIES" 


^Vill    Consist    of 


^^Wie  Man   from  ICcxas/' 


A    NOVEL, 


And  ^rill  be  issued 


1st  .December,  1888. 


^^  JiOYA    SCOTT AJ^d 

LmUAUY  OF 

THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  EDUCATION 

HALiPAX.  N.  & 


-OR- 


7178  \p(^  of  7178  Yael;!: 
^I^a/Tjplaip. 


AS   KEPT  BY 


0".  .A.i?,3yco"Y  iKiisro^c. 


{(>/  'J\:\\is  ' Si//ini,'s). 


AND   ILTASTRATEl)   KY 


©HOS.   '05OI^TH. 


NATIOAL   LITERARY  BUREAU, 
72  John  Street,  New;,  Yc/rk.j 

LIBRARY  OF 

THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  EDUCATION 

HALIFAX.  N.8.       ...  _ 


CoPYKIOHT,    1888 
Bv    J.     AkM(iY     Knux. 


.la- 


6  -  ( 


* 


V^r 


PUBLISHEr^S   Pr^EFAGE. 


_  »v , 


-'»*» 


J.  Armoy  Kxox,  the  autlior  of  this  Look,  had  the 
yacht  Champlain  huilt,  and,  accoinjuuiicd  l)y  '•  Adiron- 
dack" Murray,  sailed  on  lier  from  Lake  Champlain 
through  the  Richelieu  river  into  the  Saint  Lawrence, 
down  to  the  Saguenay  :  from  thence  out  into  the  Gulf 
of  Saint  Lawrence,  around  Nova  Scotia,  and  to  New 
"?ork  via  Boston. 

The  records  of  the  trip,  as  written  hy  Colonkl  Knox, 
were  published,  in  the  form  of  weekly  letters,  in  the 

BOSTON   HERALD. 

NEW  YORK   WORLD. 

SAN    FRANCISCO    POST, 

CHICAGO  HERALD, 

TORONTO  MAIL, 

MILWAUKEE  SENTINEL. 

PHILADELPHIA  PRESS, 

and  other  newspapers. 

The  pages  of  this  book  consist  of  these  letters — includ- 
ing the  editor's  headlines  and  printers'  errors — as  they  were 
cut  from  the  columns  of  the  above  mentioned  newspapers 
and  photo-engraved,  with  the  addition  of  the  illustrations 
by  Thos.  Worth. 


^ 

i 


t 


\ 


*'?'   t 


i 


t 


•  \l  ^ 


i 


m  * 


r 


t 


tm^^ 


(Letter  to  New  York  World.) 

AN  INTERNATIONAL  CRUISE. 


ARMOY    KNOX    AFLOAT. 


^<pfSii 


VnloadlnK  a  lot  of  lenorance— Some 
Genial  Old  RufflanH  and  their 
Imported  Tlieology— A  lilttle  Hlti- 
torical  Lecture. 

[Copyriff/if,  18S7,  by  J.  Armny  Ktiox.l 

To  start  on  a  cruise  of  many  thousand  rail&s 
requires  a  great  deal  of  preparation,  asijecially 
when  you  have  to  build  and  equip  a  yacht,  as 
we  had  to  do.  There  are  vast  numbers  of  odds 
and  ends  to  be  gathered,  and  many  of  them  to 
be  brought  from  long  distances. 

The  yacht  we  sail  in  is  named  Champlain 
after  Samuel  de  Champlain,  a  Captain  of 
French  marines,  who  came  to  America  in  the 
beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century.  He  dis- 
covered and  gave  his  name  to  the  lake  on  which 
our  yacht  was  built.  He  was  sent  by  King 
Menry  IV.  of  France  to  Canada  to  hold  and 


% 


Kovorn  it  in  iiistinmoand  to  convert  the  Iiidiatm 
to  Cliristi/iiiity. 

Kiiin  IlKiiry  iiiHtnictcd  "Our  wcll-U'Iovcd 
liii'iit.  Hiiiiiiii'l  ill'  ('liiiiii|ilaiM  to  iiiiiki'  K>'i'<tt 
Ncarcli  fill'  ii'M  ill  thiisii  Htraii^i*  ami  ilistant 
lai'ils  ami  posNo^M  MivhoU'  of  a.s  iinu'lt  tri'a-sui'o 
as  you  may,  ami  lulii^  it  l>ack  in  tlir  ^omlly 
Nliips;  al.sii  .si'l/iiaml  hriii)^  soiiiii  of  tlii>  iiativi-M 
to  wiii'k'iii  iMii"  royal  Kiill<'y>*;  »'i'l.  aliovr  all, 
rotirorii  tliysi'lf  ilili^ciitly  to  roiivi-rt  tlioso 
wiva'^o  moii  of  that  couiitVy  to  our  most  lioly 
faith." 

What  a  iniaiiit  Cliristian  scminilrcl  was  tlio 
fourth  lli'iiiy  of  l-'ranri',  If  hi>  hail  livi-il  in  i 
this  lami  of  ours,  ami  in  this  a^i'.  lu'  would  not 
havi'scnt  his  wcll-hclovi'd  iiifuti'uant  lo(  'anada. 
Ho  would  havo  worki'd  for  Christianity  in  this 
Huiiilay-srhool,  would  havf— aldcriuanirally  or 
otlu'r\visi> — possi'ssiil  hinisi>lf  of  "  much  tivas- 
iiro  "  and  would  liavo  then  i^^oiio  to (  aiiada  hiin- 

W'lf. 

Champlain  olioyi'd  tho  royal  iiiHtrui'tions.  He 
p)t  vorv  llltli'  Kold,  but  in  his  ardor  to  Cliris- 
tiaui/.e  ilio  nalivoshi'hruisi'd  his  shouldrr  liriu>; 
load  into  "  thi'  .savan'o  uii'ii"'  out  of  an  old 
HinooMi-lioro  calli'd  an  aivpii'liusn.  Tlu>  poor 
red  man  has  always  suII'i'I'imI  throiiKhtlu' cliris- 
tian  /I'al  of  his  wliiti'  lirothi-r.  Wlii'iii'Vcr  an 
invadi-r  on  any  jiart  of  this  i-ontim>iit  ini't  an 
Indian  ho  oithor  tried  to  luako  him  a  ( 'hristian 
and  then  shot  him,  or  he  triivl  to  Christ  iani/.o 
him  and  then  sold  him  adulti-ratcd  rum.  Tho 
result  was  aliout  thosumc  incai-hcasi'.  Twenty- 1 
tivo  years  before  Cham])lain  be^an  liriiiK  re- 
lij;ioii  into  tho  Iroquois  and  the  Huron  on  the 
St.  Lawreueo,  another  soldier  of  tho  Cross,  I 
named  Horiiando  Cortoz,  sjiiled  from  Spain  to  | 
compier  and  Christiaiii/o  the  sunburned  Aztee. 
Uof ore  depart  int;  ho  evoked  the  blessing;  of  (IikI 
and  of  tho  saints.  A  yo:tr  aft^-'rwards,  by  his 
ordorj  his  Lieutenant,  Alvarado,  ma.ssaered,  at 
tho  City  of  Mexico,  ti(M)  Aztoes,  whodoclinedto 
pay  him  tribute  and  aceoot  his  jilaii  of  salva- 
tion, and  then  ho  followed  this  up  by  a  ilaj'  of 
public  thanksgivinj;  and  prayer. 

Sixty  years  afterwards  monks  of  tho  order  of 
St.  Francis  of  Assisi  arrived  on  tho  lliottrando, 
at  what  is  now  El  Paso,  Tex.,  and  there  built 
forts  and  t'liurehi's  andj  aideil  by  S])anish 
soldiers,  iiroceeded  to  jam  the  Comanche 
Indians  full  of  imported  theolo{i;y.  Those  who 
refusotl  to  make  profession  of  faith  Imil  sjiades 
handetl  to  them  and  were  put  to  work  digfj;ing 
irrigating  ditches,  while  a  S|)anish  mu.sketj  with 
a  soldier  at  the  end  of  it,  occupied  a  i)ortioii  of 
the  adjacent  atmosphere.  The  tt)ugu  Indians, 
who  would  neither  work  nor  convert,  were 
kindly  i>ersuaded  with  a  thumb-screw  by  the 
good  monks.  When  thus  reasoned  with  they 
usually  embraced  the  Christian  religion  and 
afterwards  died  of  alcoholism  in  that  faith. 

Oh,  they  were  zealous  missionaries  and  godly 
pioneei's,  those  genial  old  ruflians  who  sailed 
away  from  home  to  strange  and  distant  lands, 
from  which  they  wrote  piously  worded  des- 
patches to  their  royal  masters,  recounting  their 
perils  and  sufferings,  which  they  meekly  bore 
tor  their  religion's  sake  and  what  they  could 
steal  from  the  aborigines!  The  religion  of 
Christ  is  the  purest,  sweetest,  grandest  faith 


tit 


i 


'' 


r 


timt  liiiH  over  li1(<H.si-(l  liiiiiiaiiiiy,  Iml  wluit  a" 
(iriiiy  (if  culllii'nHtM,  tliicvuH  mid  ll»iip<  luiv« 
iisi'il  il;  as  (III  cxciiHU  for  tlio  iloirit;  of  tleeihi  of 
(liH  ilisli  iliirkiH^ss! 

r  sliall  cliaiiKi'  tlmniil)joct,  Iiowi'Vit,  ns  I  aiti 
not.  (!n;;a^f«'(l  to  wriln  lilstorv,  l>tit  to  t4'll   llio 
truth  iiltoiit  (lii.syai'litiiij;criils«iof  ours.    I  went  j 
(lovvii  to  M(!n  our  yaclit  yt'st^Tiluy  laoriiiiiK  fori 
tlio  lirst  tiniK  and  htiiy(H|  on  lioaid  limt  nu;lit.  | 
Hlui  is  of  vi^ry  (^rai't'ful  liiit's  iiiul  liiis  ()uit(>'a| 
jiiunly  air  as  s!i*t  rides  at  anchor  on  the  hiiiooth 
Burfacu  of  tliu  lake.   Shn  has  liccn  liuilt  Hpccially 
Hlron;;,  with  a  vimv  foHcfoty,  for  \.n  t!Xi»i;cl,  to 
(rruiso  in  sonm  rounii  wat<'rs.     Tlin  last  time  I 
saiiod  tiio  (M'fi.an  lihm  wtw  a  yisar  uuo,  whon  I 
ciMio  froui   liivorpool  t.o  New   Yoi-k   on    tho 
lOtruria.      Tim  CunardiM'  is    Inrp'r    than   our, 
ytti'iit.     I  discovorcd  this  on  attouiutin;^  to  pull 
Miy  valiso  iiitx)  my  cabin  on  this  yaclit.     I  fouiul! 
that  to  jjct  it  in  tlicrc,  and  to  loavoany  room  for 
mysi'If  and  a  box  of  collarM  and  cuITh  tliat  I 
wanted  to  take  with  nie,  I  would  have  to  saw 
six  in(!hes  otrilKu-ndof  it.     I  askodMr.  Miniay 
to  please  have  the  valise  stowed  away  in  tlio 


t 


hold.     Then   I  made  another  discovery.     Mr. 

Murray  kimlly  but   (Irmly   infoi-nied   me   that 

.ii  ri"  was  no  hold  m  the  ( 'hanipiain.     I  discov- 

ore  I   many  other  diirercnces  bi'twccn  our  yacht 

i  and  the  Ktruria.     The  place  where  the  viain 

.s:'lo'  n  and  the  smokin^^-room  uould  be  in  the 

Chaniplain,  if  sli"  lid  not  <lill'er  from  tlie  lOlru- 

ria,  is  occup'i  I  tn  our  vacht  b>'   ihe  centri>- 

board.     T  >'  >  not  kriow  wliat  a  centre-boui'il  is, 

,  but  that  IS  what  it   is  called,  and  it  occupies  a 

ceiiti  .<!  (xisition  and  is  about  three  andahalf 

i  ''iclie.-,  thii  k.     To  ii\\o  ViXi  a  bi'tter  idea  of  her 

I  dimensions  I  would  stutis   that  there  are  two 

i  main  cabins.     They  are  both  of  the  same  size  ; 

one  i:>  in  the  i)ort  and  one  on  the  starboard  side. 

Mr.  Murray  oecipies  the  .stai'board  cabin  or 
saloon,  which  has  a  rn  '.-j,att<M'n  ccriM^t  on  it, 

I  and  into  which  projects  the  handle  of  the 
pump.  There  is  only  one  berth  in  this  saloon. 
It  consists  of  a  mattress,  which  in  the  daytime 
is  hung  a};ainstthe  wall,  and  is  cai-efiilly  spread 
out  on  the  tloor  at  ni^ht.  On  this  Mr.  Murray 
sleeps.  A.-  lie  is  a  larj^e  man,  and  broad  of 
slumlder,   he  f^enerally  lies  down  on  his  left 

:  edge,  because  if  he  were  to  turn  on  his  back  to 
better  enjoy  his  repose  he  would  bulge  out  the 
starboarif  side  of  our  yacht.  The  port  side  is 
occupied  by  the  artist  of  the  exiiedition  and 
myself — that  is,  when  we  occupy  a  |)er|)t!ndicu- 
lar  or  a  sitting  position.  When  either  liesdown 
to  sleen  the  otJier  is  crowded  out,  and  goes  up 
on  docK  and  chews  HneHJut.  We  take  alternate 
watches.  The  artist  says  that  mine  below  mast 
be  a  Waterbury,  because  it  takes  so  long  to 
wind  ap.  My  saloon  has  also  a  carpet  of  the 
same  rose-i)attei'n  as.  the  other,  but  niiir  has 
water-marks  in  irregular  spots  all  over  it,  and 

I  there  is  a  cold  fowl  wrapped  in  a  napkin  in  the 
corner.  I  do  not  know  what  the  fowl  is  there 
for  unless  it  is  Ijecause  there  was  not  room  for 
him  elsewhere.  As  he  lies  there  cold  and  still 
in  death,  he  gives  evidence  of  having  lieen  a 
fine  rooster  before  he  was  struck  down  bv  the 
ruthless  hand  of  some  unfeeling  hire  girl.  It 
would  seem  to  me  more  api)ropriate  to  lay  his 


I 


remains  out  in  the  cook-pit  or  in  the  shrouds. 

We  have  also  a  captain  and  a  crew  on  board  of 
the  Chaiuplain.  I  have  not  yot  noticed  any 
place  sjHJcially  reserved  for  them  to  sleen  in.  I 
presume  they  get  an  occasional  mouthful  of 
sleep  while  leaning  up  against  a  mast  oi'  a  Iwb- 
stay,  or  mayhap  they  lie  down  in  the  stern 
sheets. 

Our  captain  is  a  taciturn  man  who  wears  a 
yellow  oilcloth  overcoat  and  seems  to  have  a 
strong  bias  m  favor  of  pottetl  ham  as  an  oi'ticle 
of  diet.  When  he  is  not  tj-ing  something  with 
a  roixi  ho  is  either  asking  me  to  "  please  get  out 
of  the  way,  a  little  for'nd,"  or  he  is  striving  to 
pull  a  mast  out  by  the  roots  with  another  rope. 

The  crow  is  al)out  twenty-three  years  of  age. 
He  confines  himself  almost  exclusively  to 
the  F'ronch  language  and  canned  beef.  Mr. 
Murray  informed  mo  that  the  ci'ow — whoso 
name  is  Archie — did  not  s]>eak,  but  could  im- 
derstand,  the  mmlern  language  of  the  State  of 
Vermont.  I  believe  he  does  know  a  few  words, 
and  I  know  he  is  proud  of  his  kuowlotlge.  This 
morning  I  asked  him  to  bring  me  some  coffee. 
He  returned  in  about  thirty  ininut*>s,  and  with 
a  smile  and  bow  that  exjtrt^ssod,  "If  there  is 
an^'thing  you  want  that  you  don't  see  on  this 


lijjk;-^ 


^ 


ship  just  ask  for  it,"  handed  me  a  much-soiled 
two-cent  postage  stamp. 

The  foregoing  will  give  the  ordinary  lands- 
man a  fair  idea  of  the  extent  and  scope  of  our 
craft.  For  the  benefit  of  yachtsmen  I  would 
say  that  the  Chai.plain  is  40  feet  on  the  water 
line,  sharpie-built  and  schooner-rigged.  Yachts-, 
men  ^vill  pardon  me  for  not  giving  them  further 
Itarticulars.  Should  I  try,  I  doubt  not  that  the 
amoimt  of  ignorance  regarding  yachts  that  I 
would  unload  would  so  lighten  the  (.'hamplain 
that  she  would  rise  out  of  the  water  so  far  that 
she  might  careen.  I  expect,  howeverj  as  I  go 
along  to  absorb  a  vast  amount  of  marme  lore, 
which  as  occasion  offers  shall  exude  from  my 
pen  for  your  instruction  and  entertainment.  1 
have  a  book  on  yachting,  with  a  glossary  near 
the  terminus  of  it.  I  may  get  some  points  from 
that.  J.  Armoy  Knox. 


« 


<• 


m 


j« 


{Lt'ttrr  to  lionton  Ilcrnld.) 

LOG  OF  THEYAHHT  CHAMPLAIN 

First  Day's  Run  of  the  Great 
International  Cruise. 

Imagery  and  Retrospect  by  J. 
Anno.,   Knox. 


DISAPPOIMTMK.NT   AND  DELAY. 

How  the  TachtNmen  Killed  Time— ThouglitH 
of  the  Lung  Ako. 

Did  you  ever  build  a  yacht  and  ajjixniit 
a  day  to  launch  her  and  to  start  on  a 
cruise,  and  did  you  ever  sail  on  that  ap- 
pointetl  tlay  (  It-  you  say  you  tlid,  you 
make  a  sttitenient  that  should  cause  Hacreil 
Tj'uth  to  blush  at  the  bottom  of  her  well. 

There  is  always  somethinf;  leH  to  the 
last,  and  to  get  it  you  ai-e  delayetl  a  day  or 
two.  It  may  be  only  a  suction  valve  or  a 
flywheel  or  a  niouldboard,  or  some  other  of 
those  nautical  thinj^s  the  names  and  uses  of 
which  I  do  not  understjuid ;  but  you  have 
to  wait  for  it,  whatever  it  is.  as  without  it 
the  craft  could  not  k'>i  mwi  mi{;fht  back 
water,  sprain  her  si)innaker  or  imlace  her 
stays.  Of  course,  those  are  not  the  proper 
technical  terms  to  use,  but  wot  j-ou  not 
that  I  am  far  from  beiiij^  a  sailor  bold. 
These  terms  will  be  just  at.  gocxl  to  such 
lubbers  of  landsmen  as  I  aiUj  and  if  you 
are  a  yachtsman,  you  can  furnish  such 
marine  lingo  as  you  think  wtiuld  best  suit 
the  case.  If  you  do  not  know  how  to  do 
this,  certainly  yacht  to  know.  This  is  an 
original  pun.  It  was  originally  l)ro>ightto 
England  by  the  Norsemen  llengist  and 
Horsa  in  the  early  years  of  Anno  Domini. 

The  trim  and  saucy  yacht  Chaniplain 
was  launchetl  on  the  'itl  of  July.  Our  in-' 
tention  was  to  sail  away  on  the  4th  from 
Burlington,  Vt.,  on  the  beginning  of  our 
extensive  cruise  through  sevei-al  thousand 
miles  of  the  inland  waters  of  the  continent. 

Just  at  the  last  moment,  as  we  were 
ready  to  start,  on  the  morning  of  the  4tli  of 
July,  it  was  discovered  that  a  single-tree, 
or  a  sang  fvoid,  or  something  made  for  the 
yacht  was  too  larg(>.  It  was  further  dis- 
coveretl  that  the  only  mechanic  in  Burling- 
ton who  could  make  a  new  one  was  beating 
the  drum  at  the  head  of  thelocil  fire  de- 
partment's jjaradc.  We  could  do  nothing 
that  day  but  wait.  I  was  nuiih  disap- 
pointed and  felt  real  devlish,  but  that 
brought  no  result,  as  Burlington  is  a  pro- 
hibition town.  The  ajtist  and  I  celebrate<l 
the  glorious  anniversary  by  going  up  Irom 
our  camp  on  the  l)each  to  Burhn^on, 
where  we  drank  i-oot  beer  and  also  o  circus 
lemonade  sort  of  stufT  that  the  druggists 
squirt  out  of  a  marble  sarcophagus  at  five 
cents  a  squirt.  Then  we  went  down  to  the 
boat-house  and  sat  with  our  feet  dangling 
over  the  whai-f,  and  thought  of  a  variety  of 

9 


tl/rS 


J^'  /i,^i  ^-' 


\ 


/ 


/ 


painful  punishmentB  that  we  should  like  to 
inflict  on  the  man  who  caused  the  delay. 
We  tried  to  catdi  fish,  but  the  fish  wouldn't 
bite.  Then  we  went  up  to  the  town  again, 
threw  a  brick  at  a  cow,  and  bought  two 
blue  flannel  shirts  and  some  more  drug 
store  beverages.  Then  we  came  back  to 
our  camp  and  retired  to  bed  in  a  great 
gaunt  gob  of  gloom. 

Next  morning  a  further  discovery  was 
made.  The  intelligent  mechanic  was  found 
with  a  wet  towel  around  his  head,  and  he 
said  that  he  would  be  something  or  other — 
"  blowed,"  I  think,  was  the  expression— if 
he  would  do  any  work  that  day. 

He  kept  his  word. 

So  we  had  one  more  day  of  waiting,  and 
we  were  sere  afraid  that  it  would  lengthen 
into  two,  or  maybe,  three. 

Then  our  captain  bold  spake  up, 

And  up  spake  he: 
And  his  languaore,  it  was  bad 

As  bad  could  be. 

It  was  regarding  the  intelligent  me- 
chanic that  he  spoke.  The  latter  was  a 
French-Caaedian,  so  the  captain  thought 
it  appropriate  to  use  the  French  language 
in  spealung  of  him ;  that  is  why  I  say  that 
the 

CAPTAIN'S  ULXGUAOE  WAS  BAD. 

He  does  not  know  French,  he  only  thinks 
he  does. 

The  day  slowly  sinks  into  the  ciypt  of  the 
days  that  have  been  as  I  sit  on  the  banks 
of  Lake  Champlain  and  look  across  the  10 
miles  of  its  rippling  waters — across  to 
where  more  than  50  peaks  of  the  Adiron- 
dack monntains  can  be  seen. 

As  I  look  I  think  of  other  days— days  of 
long  ago — and  of  the  scenes  that  they  nave 
witnessed  here.  I  see  into  the  haze  of  the 
centuries,  and  there,  in  the  forests,  and  in 
the  green  valleys  that  wind  in'  and  out 
among  those  grand  old  hills,  I  behold  the 
bark-built  hut  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitant 
— the  red  man  who  knew  or  no  other  lands 
or  nations  or  peoples  beyond  the  big  waters 
of  the  sunrise.  1  see  the  maiden  swinging 
merrily  on  a  vine  branch,  the  mother  pa- 
tiently preparing  the  skins  of  beasts  lor 
their  scanty  clothing,  and  away  up  among 
the  rocks  and  the  pine^  on  the  hill  tops  the 
young  men  with  dow  and  arrow  hunting 
near  and  deer,  and  down  by  meandering 
streams  in  sunlit  vaiieys,  with  hook  of  bone 
and  sinew  of  deer,  are  those  who  strive  for 
the  game  whose  home  is  in  the  water,  and 
there  are  others  in  their  rude  log  canoes, 
hollowed  by  hatchet  of  stone  or  brand  of 
fire,  floating  lazily  on  the  mirror-like  bosom 
of  the  lake.  Ana  the  white  wings  of  Peace 
and  a  halo  of  Contentment  are  over  all. 
Happy  and  unmolested,  and  loving  their 
homes,  dwell  these  simple  people  in  an  Ar- 
cadia that  we  of  to-day  can  never  know. 

Forwai'd  through  the  ages  my  mental 
vision  reaches,  and  I  come  to  within  3U0 
years  of  our  own  time.    I  look  and  I  see  the 


I 


^ 


•  • 


same  valley,  mountain  and  lake.  The  red 
man  is  still  there,  and  almost  the  same  does 
he  seem.  His  bows,  arrows  and  ornaments 
are  of  somewhat  finer  workmanship,  and 
hi.s  birch  bark  canoe  has  rejjlaced  the  hol- 
low log.  But  there  is  a  change,  jjoace  has 
flown  and  contentment  has  vanislied.  The 
war  cry  has  taken  the  place  of  the  whisper 
of  love,  and,  tribe  against  tribe,  fierce  bat- 
tles are  waged,  and  nature's  emerald  car- 
jjet  is 

CRIM30\   WITH   THE   BLOOD   OF  MEN. 

Theirs  is  the  whole  land,  frrnn  thi;  pine 
regions  of  the  north  to  the  palnictto  swamps 
of  the  south,  but  they  fight  over  its  divis- 
ion, tliey  wage  war  for  gain,  they  take  uj) 
arms  for  aiubition's  sake,  and  they  plunder 
and  despoil  each  other  in  the  name  of  pa- 
triotism. 

I  look  again  and  I  see  enter  this  lake — 
sailing  along  its  shores  in  a  canot — the  first 
whit«  man  whose  eye  has  evei-  rested  on  its 
waters.  It  is  a  luckless  day,  an  ill-fated 
moment  for  the  Indian,  wlien  this  man — 
Samuel  de  Champiain,  a  ca})tain  of  France 
— lands  on  its  shores.  The  s(nmd  of  his fiist 
gun-shot  is  the  death-knell  of  the  red  man 
in  all  the  j'egion  of  the  St.  Lawrcnct. 
Frier.dly  with  some  and  at  enmity  with 
other  tribes,  L'liaini)lain,  and  tho.se  who 
succeed  him  as  roju'e.sentiit i ves  of  tlie  King 
of  France,  use  the  strength  and  the  weak- 
ness of  tribes  in  arraying  them  against 
eac!  ')ther;  tiieyprofit  by  their  virtues  and 
vies,  an  1  eventually  absoi-b  tlieir  lands 
and  ruin  their  national  and  tribal  lives. 

TtMlay  as  I  sit  looking  across  the  lake  I 
see  them  not.  Tliey  are  among  the  tilings 
that  were.  But  the  hills  are  still  as  grand, 
the  valleys  still  as  green,  and  river  and  lake 
still  as  clear  as  when,  ceuturiiN  ago.  in 
those  halcyon  days  of  old,  the  red  man 
owned  them  all. 

Vae  victis.  J.  Armoy  Knox. 


II 


KLctirr  to  rfuladclp/tia  Press.) 

A  GREAT  YACHT  CRUISE 


J.  Armoy   Kuox  and  "Adirondack"  Murray 
Start  on  Their  Joumej. 


THE    HUMORIST'S   FIKST    LETTEE. 


Why  He  Was  Discharged  from  the  Posi- 
tion of  Yacht's  Cook. 


OUTLINE  OF  THE  PROPOSED  VOYAGE 


17p  the  St,  lAwrebce,  Dowa    t.ho  Sasuenny 

«nd  Along  the  Coast*    of  Mxiva  Rcotia 

■  and  Labrador— A  n«d  Day'*  Flsb> 

<nK>  a    CharniliiK   Night  on 

tbo   tiftke  ;And  a  Won« 

dorful  Kkhkbltion 

of  Paddling. 


Bpeclel  CorrespoDdCDce  of  This  Pnxsfl, 
Ow  Board  the  Y  acht  Ch ampla  ii», \ 
LaRU  OilAUPLAIN.  July  IS.     J 

The  last  fishing  rod,  the  last  rillc  and 
the  last  can  of  condensed  milk  were  stowed 
away  on  board,  the  hawser  was  cast 
ofl'  from  the  shore  and  the  yacht  Cham- 
plain,  with  her  sails  filled  by  a  Southwest 
breeze,  sailed  out  inio  Lake  Champlain  on 
the  first  day  of  what  will  be  a  three 
months'  cruise  through  lake,  and  river  and  sea 
—  a  cruise  that  will  be  thousands  of  miles  in 
extent,  and  that  wiU.carry  her  and  her  owners 
mto  strange  waters.  From  Lake  Champlain 
through  the  Riciiclieu  River,  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence ^  up  the  Ottawa  to  the  Capital  of  Canada; 
to  Quebec,  a  city  quaint  and  curious;  through 
the  sombre  Saeueimy  out .  into  the  Oulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  and  along  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia 
and,  perhaps,  Labrador. 

The  Champlaiu  w.as  built  specially  for  this 
voyage.  She  is  a  schooner  rigged,  centreboard 
yacht  built  an('  equipped  with  a  view  to  speed 
and  safety.  The  verdict  of  those  who  have  seen 
her  sail  is  that  she  is  as  pretty  a  piece  of 
naval  architecturd  as  ever  shadowed  water. 
Mr.  W.  U  H.  Murray,  who  modeled  the  yacht, 
it  in  command.  We  have  also  a  captain  and  a 
crew.  Mr.  Murray  is  an  experienced  yachts^ 
man.  The  captain  is  a  seaman  of  ability. 
The  cr^w  ie  a  Frenchman  who  answers  to  the 
name  of  Archie,  and  who,  when  not  actini;  in 

12 


•  • 


«    t 


the  ciipaoitf  of  a  crew,  performs  the  duties  of 
cook.  In  camp,  t^o  days  before  we  sailed,  I  re- 
ceived the  appointment  of  cook,  but  bting  too 
ambitious  I  lost  the  position.  I  aspired  to  make 
an  omelet  and  I  made  it.  It  turned  out  to  be 
of  the  kind  that  when  stretched  out  and  then 
let  go  at  one  end  flies  back  with  a  snap.  At  the 
Captain's  suggestion  it  was  tried  on  the  ship'tf 
dog;  when  he  declined  to  ii\Jure  hia  digestive 
organs  with  it.  I  was  degraded  (o  the  rank  of 
fiecond  or  assistant  cook,  with  power  to  act  onljr 
in  emergencies. 

1  must  leave  to  Mr,  Murray  the  duty  of  tell- 
ing you  how  the  yacht  behaves  and  why  she  so 
behaves,  and  how  she  acts  when  running  jn  the 
eye  of  the  wind  or  when  her  anchor  gets  foul  of 
!a  parallel  of  latitude  or  a  snag,  for  I  am  densely 
ignorant  of  all  nautical  matters,  1  know  noth- 
ing of  such  things  except  the  little  I  learned/ 
while  prodding  a  team  of  mules  m  front  of  ( 
prairie  schooner  across  the  plains  in  1875. 


=^^5S^  C,<^!SP 


TUE  START. 

We  sailed  away  from  Burlington  after  break- 
fast. A  light  breeze  carried  ua  over  the  deep 
blue  of  Lake  Champlainout  into  the  middle  of 
its  ten  miles  of  width,  where  WB  •  encountered  z 
strong  wind.  Tbe  surface  of  the  lake  was 
lumpy  with  white  crested  waves  chas- 
ing each  other  before  the  wind.  Some- 
thing was  done  to  the  sails,  the 
centre-board  was  tampered  with,  and  we  headed 
•for  the  Canadian  line  at  the  Northern  end  ol 
the  lake.  It  was  an  ideal  yachting  day,  and 
just  what  we  wanted  to  test  the  sailing 
qaulities  of  bur  yacht.  Skimming  np 
the  lake  we  went  with  the  pealu 
of  the  Adirondack  Mountains  on  our  port 
and  the  cloud-capped  Green  Mountains  in  the 
distance  on  our  starboard  bow.  The  port  is 
the  lefc  band  and  the  starboard  is  the 
right-hand  side  of  the  boat  looking  for- 
ward. I  know  this  because  I  went  into  the 
cabin  and  consulted  my  library  and  li  said 
60,  My  librurr  consist  of  one  consecutive 
Tolnme  of  the  Yachtsman's  Manual  and  I  keep 


13 


■' 
:* 


(t  in  a  tin  bucket  to  provflnt  it  go^^ing  wet.  If 
I  can  spend  an  hour  fvvrj  day  in  my  llbrnrr  I 
may,  before  ihe  end  of  this  crnixe,  know  enough 
ol  nautical  etiquette  to  go  below  when  it  rains. 

Champliiiii  is  130  miles  in  length.  On  each 
aide  are  many  sheltered  bays  and  secluded  inlets. 
The  shores  arc  thickly  wooded  from  the  water's 
edge,  and  few  sifrns  of  human  habitations 
are  to  bo  seen.  We  ran  aim  Ait  twenty  miles 
in  two  hours,  and  tha  yacht  acted  uubly. 
At  her  admiring  pilot  expressed  it,  she 
ran  "like  the  ghost  of  a  scared  cat."  During 
the  two  hours'  run  I  was  not  in  a  perpendicu- 
lar position  more  than  two  seconds  at  one  time, 
although  heavily  ballaatod  with  a  breakfast  of 
expensive  canned  groceries  and  an  unwritten 
article  on  "Beans  oaa  Factor  in  thellation's 
Growth." 

We  ran  in  near  the  shore  and  anchored.  We 
■«nt  the  tender  ashore  for  eggs  and  milk  while 
the  artist  and  I  cast  a  line  to  leeward  with  in- 
tent to  secure  some  of  the  bass  with  which  the 
lake  is  said  to  bo  well  stocked,  but  the  baas  de- 
clined our  bogus  insects,  India  rubber  frogs 
and  feather  duster  flies.  Small  fish  about  four 
inches  inches  in  length  and  called  chubs  were 
hungry  and  hung  themselves  on  onr  hooks 
with  distressing  (requenc^.  We  were  fishing 
tor  bass  and  wanted  nothing  else.  The  artist, 
after  hauling  out  more  than  twenty  chubs,  at- 
tached to  hit  sinker  a  card  on  which  was  writ- 
ten: 


at 


W' 


\Jt^i^L 


!     AU  amall  flsb,  especially  chubs, 

are  requested 
I  not  to  bite 

I        nor  monkey  with  the  bait. 


The  number  of  bass  wc  didn't  catch  would -^ 
bankrupt  the  numerical  system.  u  ^ 

8CN8KT  ON  THE  LAKlt.  {'^ 

After  loncheon  the  wind  went  down  and  W6v 
sailed  befbre  a  light  breexe  until  we  came  to  s^ 
qniet  bay  on  the  Kastern  shore,  where  we  cast 
anchor  for  the  night.  The  waters  of  the  lake 
became  perfectly  smooth  and  the  sun  went  down 
behind  the  Western  hills  in  unusual  splendor, 


14 


1^ 


1 


"Whol   A    picture    it    wa»— tbe  yacht,  with  bet 
white  wines  folJed,  rptting  mthout   motion  on 
th«    pnrple   bo^nm  of  tlie  ]ni(e,  a  bsckgrouud 
of    emerald   (orcKt    and    xnountivin,     glJiopscl 
of     tbft      ^real      dome      o(      tkepett     bine 
throDgb     rirta     ot     clond      iiinsst8      glorious 
)n    crimson    and     gold.      No    picture     ever 
paiotad  bad  such  wealth  of  {:or,^'<!oujtiut!i.  Such 
cootraBtA  of  colors    so    hiiriuoniotisly    blended 
never  caroo  from  pamter'i   palette.     Art  ncrer 
mixed     her      colore     with     hiich      niatcliless 
skill      nor      co»ered      canvas      with      such 
UK^nlficcot    prouu.-ility     of    huis.       As    the 
day  faded   inio  f)i;;lit     ilift     pnrple    went  oiil 
of  the  wateru,  the  ^olii  II  ibo  clouiJ*  ctmnKod  to 
Kny,  dnrkne&K  filled   tl\p   nTifiiU'S  in  the  woods 
and    clotli'^il    (lie    nionntam^  wiih  ,i  mantle  of 
gloom,  and  tli(n  sfiir  iiltir  star  came  out  nnlil, 
when  tho  clouJs  (Jnltin^    in    upp.<r    curreota 
paused    beyond    the    horizon,  liie  whole  firiua- 
roebt  TvnH  studied  with    sparkling   jewels.       I 
h»TC    seen      the     ilay     go     and      tlie      night 
came  in   ninny   lands,  but    never  belorc   have 
i  Seen  'lie  Irnn'irnriii'ition  nccoinpnnied  by  suci 
betutihil  elkcts,  and  never    have  1  seen  us  per 
feet  a  .'•iuuirner  ni^'lil.     There  was  a   slillni;«s  !v 
Jl' the  ^f0l■ld   and    all    Ihi.'rein     wt  re    dfad,  thi 
usdal  Inrtpiir.;  snunl  of  Wiiter  on  the   he.uh  tra 
ab^eot,  beat  of  hem  t  and  tick  of  watch  were  al 
of  sound  that  the  ear    could    detect,  and    tho* 
slight     sounds     only    served    to    dcepaa    th( 
silence.     Lying  on  the  deck    and    looking    up 
at  the  worlcfs  and  suns  and    planets  that    glis- 
fened  and  sparkled  in   tho  great  concavity  of 
celestial  sp:ice,«nud   then,  looking  over  the  side 
into  the  water,  tiie re  f.cenicd    to    be    no    water 
there,      but     instead,   as     we    looked    down 
through    a    great    void,   wo     saw    what    ap- 
peared another  and    similar  galaxy  of  lustrous 
worlds  and  suns  gleaming  and  scintillating  in 
the  lower  half  of  tlio  azure  vault,  and  our  boat 
seemed   to  be  llo'itiii^   in  space— the  centre  of 
the  universe.   It  was  like  a  dream— a  phantasy. 
Small,  trivial  and  insigniGcantdo  weand  doour 
ambitions,  our  labors,  and  our  lives  seem  amid 
Buth  surroundings.     What  thouchts  come  to  us 
nmid  these  sccnet     My  speculations  as  to  what 
lay  beyond  our  earthly  being  were  interrnpted 
by  Mr.  Murray,  who  broke  the  silence  and  the 
spell. 

SKILL  IN  PADDLING. 
He  said:  "Do  you  think  it  would  be  pos- 
sible on  such  a  still  night  as  this  to  paddle  a 
boai  right  on  to  you  if  you  were 
camped  on  the  beach— paddle  it  so  si- 
lently that,  however,  intently  you  might 
listen,  you  would  not  know  that  boat  or  paddle 
was  on  the  lake  until  thev  came  within  the 
circle  of  your  campfire's  light?  Well,  it  is 
possible.  The  savage  learned  to  do  it  that  ha 
might  nndiscovered  approach  the  game  ha 
hunted  or  ambush  his  enemy.  Come  with  me 
and  I  shall  show  you  bow    it  is   done.    Yean 


15 


at'o  I  learned  to  do  it,  and  to-night  we  shall 
test  whether  my  hnnd  has  foiijotten  its  cun- 
nine:.  A  canoe  would  be  hcttcr.  but  we  shall 
try  what  cau  be  done  witu  tliis  light  boat. 
Hand  me  my  old  paddle;  yes,  I  have  owned  it 
for  a  long  time,  and,  in  days  that  are  gone,  it 
carried  me  through  many  miles  of  lake  and 
riTer.  Take  a  seat  in  the  stern  with  your  back 
toward  me.  Shut  your  eyes  so  that 
your  whole  attention  may  be  con- 
centrated on  detecting  the  sound 
of  the  paddle  in  the  water.  Now  keep  perfectly 
still  until  the  boat  becomes  steady  aud  until  I 
get  ready  to  start."  I  shut  my  eyes  and  I 
waited.  I  could  hear  a  bull  Irog  on  the 
shore  a  (quarter  of  a  mile  away,  the 
creaking  ot  a  rope  in  •»  block  on  the 
yacht,  and  the  faint  splash  of  a  fish 
leaping  away  out  in  the  lake.  No  other  sound 
reached  my  ear.  The  boat  had  settled  down  ia 
the  water  and  was  absolutely  without  motion. 
After  waiting  probably  five  minutes,  I  said: 
"Well,  are  you  not  ready  to  start?"  Then  from 
the  bow  of  the  boat  came  a  laugh  that  filled  the 
whole  bay  with  hilarious  sound,  and  that  went 
Hway  Dp  amoujp:  the  hills  on  the  otber  shore 
and  came  echoing  back  In  merry  ha-ba-has.  I 
opened  my  eyes  and  found  that  branches  of 
trees  swung  over  my  head  and  that  we  were 
within  two  feet  of  the  shore.  Without 
sound  or  perceptible  motion  We  had 
passed  over  the  water  between  the  yacht 
and  the  beach.  It  Was  a  wonderful  exhibition 
of  skill— skill  bom  of  circumstances,  conditions 
and  necessities  requiring  that  the  craft  and 
strategy  of  man  be  pitted  against  'the  more 
acute  senses  of  bird  and  beast. 


4 


I 


i 


•N  <•• 


«  «' 


16 


I 


t 


{letter  to  y,  ir  York  Wort<l.) 

AN  INTERNATIONAL  CRUISE. 

ARMOY  KNOX'S  VERSIOV. 

His  DUpoHes  of  Some  of  Ilia  8aperflooa<*  llUtor- 
ic»l  KnowlfdKe,  Kshlbitinir  a  UpiiiHrkublp 
Faniillaritjr  with  the  At'ronipllNhnirnlit  of 
Huron  and  IroquuiH— The  llelitthts  of  Doluar 
Nothlnir— The  I'anadiHu  Way  of  Milking  a 
L(  nionade. 

On  Board  Yacht  CnAMrr.Aix,  July  ^\— 
■\Vliat  historic  f;riiiiU(l  tliis  is  aroiiiul  l.aku 
Chaiiiplain,  what  Hci'ce  enntoiitiniis  have  Id'on 
here,  ami  what  sava^;e  battles  have  luu'ii  t'mi;;ht 
on  theso  sluires  and  in  these  watei'sl  In  thelont; 
u;;()  this  was  the  dividing  line  between  tlie 
re;^ion  claimed  bj-  the  llurons  on  the  north  and 
that  owned  l)y  tlie  "Five  Nations''  on  tlic 
sontli — a  bliMHly  ari'na  where,  t'oi-  many  5'ears, 
the  war-cry  echiHMl  from  these  hills  uhnost  con- 
timiously,  as  sava;;-e  met  savage  in  deadly 
strife.  Then  the  French  came,  and  almost  the 
first  thinj;  they  did  was  to  makt;  war  in  these 
woods.  Sanuiel  de  C'hamplain,  the  r<  presentn- 
l  tivo  of  the  Iviir^' of  France,  and  the  llrst  white 
man  wl»o  ever  saw  this  rej^ion,  came  nj)  here 
!  from  the  St.  Lawrence  one  sunniier  day  nearly 
thi'ee  hundred  years  iv^n,  and  with  him  were 
two  otiier  Frencinncn  and  a  war  jjarty  of 
Huron  Indian<  On  the  banks  of  the  lake  they 
encountered  some  two  hundred  Iro(|Uois  war- 
riors, the  mortal  enemit's  of  the  Hurons.  The 
latter  waited  the  attack  of  the  Iro(jUois  initil 
they  advanced  to  within  bow  sliot.  Then  the 
ranks  of  tlie  Huron  warriors  opened  andCliani- 
])lain  and  the  other  two  Frenchmen  stei)ped  for- 
ward in  front  of  the  line.  Tlii-y  woi'e  steel 
armor  and  each  was  armed  with  n  nun  cidled 
an  nrquebuse.  The  Iroquois  were  filled  with 
amazement  when  they  beheld  these  .strani.;ely 
attired  men  of  n  race  they  knew  not.  To  their 
amazement  was  ad<led  tei'ror  at  the  sound  of 
the  Frenchmen's  guns  and  at  the  deadly  effect 
of  the  four  bullets  with  which  each  was  loaded. 
The  Iroquois  were  panic-stricki'n  and  easily 
defeated,  and  the  Hurons  killed  and  scali)ed 
many  of  thc:u. 

Soon  after  this  time  the  warriors  of  the 
"Five  Nations"  obtained  guns  through  trade 
with  the  Dutch  of  Manhattan,  and  the  wars  be- 
tween them  and  the  Indians  of  the  North  con- 
tinued. Then  the  French  claimed  the  territory 
by  right  of  discovery,  and  erected  forts  tm  Lake 
Champlain.  The  English  also  claimed  it  by 
virtue  of  treaty  with  the  "  Five  Notions,"  and 
for  years,  beginning  with  the  middle  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  the  rhythm  of  nature's 
melody — song  of  bird,  rustle 'of  leaf  and  rijjjjle 
of  water — was  broken  in  ujjon  by  the  jornng 
sounds  of  battle  and  was  lost  amid  the  discord 


17 


•  i 


iH:  WORLD:    SUNDAY,  JULY  16    If 


0 


(liiit  a]>- 
iliil,  you 
M  Sac  rod 
•r  well. 
it  to  the 

a  day  or 


liid  if  you 

Mil-,!!  such 

1  bt!>t  suit 

/).v  to  do 

^iis  is  an 

ought  tr) 

jst   and 

)oinini. 

'Qplani 

•C  ui- 

[roni 

:  our 

and 

bnt. 

fere 

hot 

roe, 

'the 

.<lis- 

.■in«- 
itiii- 
•■e  ( lo- 
athing 
jdisaji- 
►    that 
n  i)io- 
;Srateil 
i])  from 
inn,gton, 
a  circus 

<l  U„'t,MSt,S 

ut  five 

>i  to  the 

i nsHng 

letyof 

ke  to 

•lav 

i.'dn't 

I  am, 


of  bent  of  ilruni,  boom  of  cannon  and  yell  of 
savage  combatant.  The  conflict  went  on,  ami 
thousands  of  galhint  Frendunen,  brave  English- 
men and  feaness  savage  allies  wei'c  slain. 

The  French  [lassed  out  of  the  lake  forever  in 
IT;")!*  and  the  English  fiag  floated  (jver  the  old 
fort.  There  was  peace  for  a  time,  and  deer  and 
panther,  boar  and  beaver,  came  back  to  their  old 
baunts  in  forest  and  stream,  and  ou  the  rocky 
heights  of  Ticonderoga  grass  grew  within  the 
walls  of  the  fort,  and  in  camion's  mouth  spiders 
spun  their  silken  webs.  Only  a  few  years  ot 
tranquillity  and  onco  more  there  was  tumult 
and  the  fort  was  taken  by  Ethan  Allen  "  in  tlie 
name  of  the  Great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental 
Congress."  And  then  Burgoyne,  with  over 
seven  thousand  British  soldiers,  came  into  the 
lake  and  again  was  heard  the  clash  of  arms, 
and  blood  flowed,  and  men  diet!. 

With  the  ninetcHjnth  century  camo  peace  to 
the  region  of  Champlain,  and  only  the  suns  of 
summer  and  the  frosts  of  winter  have  since  at- 
tacked the  old  fort  of  Ticonderoga.  Am  I  not 
right  in  saying  that  around  this  lake  echo  more 
memories  of  strife  and  warfare  lliat  go  to  make 
our  country's  history  than  around  any  other 
spot  on  the  continent  i 

DOWN  THE  RICHELIEU. 

We  sail  down  into  the  Richelieu  River,  which 
flows  from  Lake  Chaniphiin  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  neajly  one  uundred  miles  in  length. 
The  day  is  hot  and  the  breeze  is  light  as  we 
cross  over  the  line  into  Canada  and  lazily  v;Iide 
down  the  stream,  passing  occasional  farm- 
houses where  the  inhabitants  come  out  and  stare 
at  us.  They  seem  surprised  at  the  sight  of  a 
yacht  in  these  waters,  and  they  gesticulate  and 
ask  us  where  we  are  from,  where  we  are  going, 
and  dont  we  want  to  buy  a  uuckctful  oi 
blackberries.  We  meet  lumber  barges,  gi-oat 
strings  of  them,  pulled  by  splutterinj^  little 
steam  tugs,  slowly  moving  south  on  thcMr  way 
from  Quebec  to  Albany  or  New  York,  and  now 
and  then  we  pass  a  lonely  boy  sitting  in  a  canoe 
fishing  in  a  lonely  inlet.  This  is  not  the  kind  of 
river  that  "  rolls  proudly  on,"  or  that  "  runs  its 
turbid  race,"  or  that  "  hies  tumbling  onward  to 
the  azui'e  main."  It  is  a  quiet,  smooth,  decor- 
ous river  that  doesn't  hie,  or  turb  or  roll,  but 
that  takes  its  time  to  wander  through  sun  and 
shade,  along  meadows  of  green  rushes,  and  past 
banks  clothed  with  spruco  and  maple,  pine  and 
balsam. 

PLEASURES  OF  IDLENESS. 

What  a  blessed  thing  is  inaction  •    To  a  man 

) 


which 
to  wai 
the  ci 
water 
stay-*. 
tf'chm 
that  1 
Till 'SO 
hibliei 
are  a 
marin 
the  00 
this,  I 
origii 
Engl 
Hoi 

Tl 
was 
tenti 
Burl 
extei 
milt"- 

Ju- 
readv 
July" 
or  a  • 
yach 
cove 
ton 
the 
])ai 
tha 
noi 
nro 
hili 

tiK. 

our 
whei 
leino 
squii 
cent*, 
biat- 
over  t 
paiiifi 
intlit  t 
Wo  tl  1 
bite      ' 
threw 
blue  fl 
sttire  b 
mw  <\i 
gaunt  f 
Next 
made, 
wi' 


18 


-v, 


r 


tired  of  the  rush  and  rattle  and  nolso  of  a  great 
city,  worn  and  weary  with  the  grave  cares  and 
petty  worries  of  business,  with  the  flcht  to  hold 
one's  own  in  life's  struggle,  and  with  tho  sell- 
ishness  and  heartlcssness  of  nuM  whose  aim  in 
life  is  the  acquisition  of  position— tho  posses- 
sion of  money— to  such  a  one,  what  a  glorious 
condition  of  restfulness  Ls  this  sailing  on  sum- 
mer seas,  this  abondonment  of  cares,  this  indo- 
lent nomadism!  No  Castle  of  Indolence  ever 
ecjualled  a  yacht  on  inland  waters.  No  pleas- 
ures of  idleness  ever  excelle<l  thislyin^  stretched 
out  on  deck,  smoking  a  pi))e  and  wutching  the 
panorama  of  leagues  of  picturesrjue  scenery  as 
ft  passes.  You,  who  live  on  shore,  have  to  go  to 
your  pleasures  or  send  and  have  such  things  as 
entertain  you  brought  to  your  homes.  ^\Vo 
have  woods  and  .waterfalls,  mountains  and  val- 
leys, towns  and  villages  come  to  us  ami  i)ass  in 
review  before  us.  Listen  to  me,  you  city  peo- 
ple. Our  days  are  filled  with  i)eaco  and  pleas- 
ant companionship,  no  letters  to  read  and 
answer,  no  visitors  to  interrupt,  no  bores  to 
annoy,  no  trains  to  catch.  At  night  cool 
breezes  fan  our  faces  as  we  sleep.  The  perf  luno 
of  flower  and  tree  and  carol  of  nature's  chor- 
isters greet  us  when  wo  wako.  Our  bathroom 
is  the  whole  expanse  of  cool  river  and  sandy 
beach.    And   then   our   appetites !    They  are 


'%-. 


worth  a  King's  ransom,  for  is  it  not  pleasure  to 
be  hungry  !  and  then  such  enjoyment  it  is  to  eat 
when  sauces  are  not  neerlod  to  create  desire  for 
food.  Now,  think  of  this  when  tho  michii^jht 
music  from  tho  back  yard  fence  and  the  oilor 
from  tho  ash  barrel  in  the  alley  greet  you 
Vheu  you  wako  on  some  of  these  hot  nights, 
and  think  of  it  as  you  absorb  your  morning 
stimulant  to  spur  your  lethargic  appetite  .  and 
again,  think  of  it  when  you  run  to  catch  a  train 
and  get  a  cinder  in  yom*  ey  j.  Then,  when  you 
miss  tho  train  and  have  said  the  fli'st  bad  word 
you  think  of,  I  want  you  to  sit  down  and, 
while  you  wait  for  the  next  train,  spend  the 
time  in  envying  us.  Yes,  I  wish  you  to  en\'y 
us,  but  only  for  the  reason  that  doing  so  may 
suggest  to  you  that  it  would  be  good  for  you 
and  yours  to  take  such  a  rest  and  such  a  trip  as 
wo  are  taking,  and  it  may  cause  you  to  do  so 
some  day.  We  are  pioneering  tho  way  through 
these  waters,  and  we  hope  to  inrluco  many  to 
follow  our  path  and  our  plan..  You  need  rest, 
my  overworked  business  brother,  and  so  do  you, 
my  pi'ofessional  friends— you  doctors  and  you 
lawyers.  Steam  engines  require  to  be  rested 
occasionally  or  they  would  not  last  out  half 
their  days,  and  so  do  you  need  rest  and  need  it 
sorely,  and  if  you  take  it  you  will  lengthen 
your" days  and  brighten  your  lives. 

Here  we  are  at  St.  Johns,  the  first  town  in 
Canada  that  we  visit,  and  I  go  ashore  to  mail 
some  letters.  St.  Johns  differs  but  little  from 
towns  of  its  size  in  the  States,  except  that 
many  of  the  people  speak  French  and  that  all 
move  moie  slowly  and  do  business  more  leis- 
ui  ely  than  do  the  people  of  the  United  States. 

HAKINQ   A  LEMONADE. 

Let  me  describe  the  languid,  loitering  way  in 
whif  h  a  Canadian  does  business.    It  was  very 

19  ■ 


hnt,  and  T  wanttMl  n  IciiidiukI)'.  I  cntt-rcd  n 
hiiiiso  nil  tlio  (liiorof  whicli  wtis  a  si;;ii  tlmt 
rc;nl: 


vFNs  i:t  T,Fun:i'i{s, 
UNK  sim;(  iamtI;  i'oiu  lk« 

"(•U(  KTA1I>." 


T  m.'Kl((  kiKiwn  iny  wnnts  totlic  barkccpfr,  wli'.. 
wiili  thoaidof'a  (■orksci-cw,  was  ti-yiii;;tn  kill 
a  tlv  on  tiio  ciiiiiitcr.  lie  missed  llii'  llv  twice, 
and  then  I'dllMWed  it  ovw  to  the  iieer  "ke;^  niwl 
Jahlied  at  it  liiere  until  it  es('a|>ed  up  aiiinnK 
SDiiie  (lid  extl'ael-nl-lieef  cans  on  t  he  tup  slull'. 
Then,  in  an  indilVerent,  interro^;ative  way,  he 
said  "  lleer  ^"  I  repeated  my  order,  lle'took 
a  earet'id  look  at  my  snn-linrned  nose,  and  from 
the  way  he  elevated  his  i-yelirows  I  could  see 
that,  hetiionnht  it  stranp' that-  I  should  prefer 
lemonade  to  lieer.  lie,  however,  made  no  re- 
mark, lint  took  a  lemon  out  of  a  drawer,  );(it  a 
kii'le  and,  aftei'  wipinj;  it  on  his  ti'ousers,  laid 
it  <lown  wliile  h(>  put  iiis  hand  to  his  mouth  to 
prevent  the  too  sudden  escaj.eof  (piite  an  abun- 
dant yawni.  After  euttin;;  the  lemon  into  two 
|)arts  he  looked  for  somethinn  nnder  the 
counter  and  Ix'hind  a  lieer  ke^-.  S'ot  iindin;^'  it 
thej'e,  he  seemed  to  i-emendiei-  something'  and 
went  into  a  liack  room,  fi'om  which  he  soon 
emer;j,<'d  with  a  woodiMi  lemou-sijneezer.  Then 
he  nut  some  su}j;ai"  in  the  j^lass,  following  that 
witli  a  little  water.  At  this  iioint  he  suddenly 
wi'nt  to  the  ()|i(,'n  window  and  conversed  with  a 
man  across  the  street  about  the  loan  oi'  a  liird 
do^f.  He  he^i'an  a;;ain  on  my  lemonade  by 
sneezing;  half  of  tlu!  li>mon  intoihe  f^la.ss.  Theii 
he  looked  out  of  the  window  and  seemed  to  i)ur- 
sne  a  train  of  thout;ht.  Tt  took  so  nnich  time 
that  I  think  he  must  have  pnrsia>d  it  aci'oss  the 
Canadian  frontier,  perhajis  as  far  ns  Troy  oi' 
Syracuse,  N.  Y.  He  went  into  the  back  room 
for  ice,  and,  not  bein^;  able  to  reuieinber  wlieie 
his  ice  hann>u!r  was,  he  scratched  his  ear  a  mo- 
luont,  bat  memory  wojld  not  resjiond,  and  ho 
took  a  bcei  bottlo  and  with  it  leisurely  broke 
the  ice  aiid  jjut  it  into  the  K'lns'^  with  some  moi'e 
water.  Coverinj;  the  f^lass  with  a  conical  tin 
ves-iL'l  he  rolled  tij)  his  sleeves  prepai'atcay  to 
sbakin)^  the  beveraf^e.  At  this  moment  he  was 
interrujjted  by  a  man  who  smelled  as  if  he  bad 
some  connection  with  the  enfjine-rooni of  a  tuj^. 
The  man  slammed  an  open  letter  down  on  the 
counter  and  said,  "  That's  a  devil  of  a  letter  for 
a  man  to  };et  from  his  only  son.  Jnstcast  your 
eye  over  that,  Jed."  The  barkeei)er  paused  on 
his  first  upward  shake  of  my  lemonade,  and 
taking  up  the  letter  rood  it,  arid  intimated  that 
"  it  was  a  blooming  shame."    Then  he  changed 


L 


1,11  w 


iF' 


iiw 


ii 


IX  (lolliir  l>ill  for  n  iimii  in  his  Mhirt  Hlwjvtw,  who 
was  nIayiiiK  soma  K'tiiiu  in  tliu  noxt  room.  At 
loMt  no  shoolt  my  Tcmonndu,  and  whlln  ho  waa 
Huarehinx  for  a  Ncrnw  to  put  into  it  I  drank  it, 
laid  adiiuo  onthooountor,  and  wont  down  to  the 
wharf.  Hhoiild  I  over  again  want  a  lomonade 
in  St.  Johns  I  shall  try  to  arrivo  thoro  and 
order  It  tho  day  Iniforo. 

CANADIAN  COUBTESY. 

I  think  tho  Canadians  aru  moro  polito  and 
obliging  than  aro  our  poonle.  I  bought  some 
stamps  in  the  Ht.  Johns  ro.4t-Utnee  and  tend- 
ered a  flvenloUar  bill.  Tho  Postmaster  ex- 
preucd  regret  that  he  did  not  have  change.  Ho 
said  that  if  I  would  pardon  him  and  icindly 
wait  lie  would  go  out  and  gut  the  bill  ohaiiKou. 
He  had  no  clerk  to  send,  and  he  actually  locKed 
up  the  Post-Office  and  went  around  the  block 
and  procured  tho  change.  At  tho  fxnross  ofllee 
the  agent  was  starting  to  tho  railroad  station  to 
meet  the  only  train  that  day  for  New  York. 
He  expressed  de«!p  regret  that  he  could  not  wait 
for  tho  parcel  (  wished  to  send.  Ho  said,  how- 
ever, that  after  I  got  it  sealed  and  addressed  hia 
son  would  run  with  it  to  the  station,  and  if  in 
time  be  would  forwai'd  it.  The  young  man 
waited  until  I  had  sealed  the  package;  he  then 
locked  the  express  office,  and  the  last  I  saw  of 
hira  be  was  moving  his  legs  in  a  very  impetu- 
ous manner  in  the  direction  of  the  railroad 
station.  I  fear  that  two  such  acts  of  courtesy 
would  hardly  be  met  with  in  one  day  by  a 
stranger  in  a  United  Htates  town.  Is  it  because 
we  are  such  a  busy  people  that  we  think  we 
have  not  time  to  bo  courteous  and  obliging  ? 

When  Mr.  Macdonald,  the  Mayor  of  St. 
Johns  heard  of  our  arrival,  be  called  on  us  and 
entertained  as  handsomely  at  bis  house.  Mr. 
Smith,  the  editor  of  the  News,  and  some  of  the 
members  of  the  Yacht  Club  also  made  our  stay 
at  St.  Johns  very  pleasant,  and  Mr.  Alex.  Mac- 
donald gave  us  welcome  and  material  hospitality 
on  his  steam  yacht.  So  our  fii-st  impressions  of 
Canada  and  Canadians  are  of  a  rose-tinted 
character. 


*i-1 


21 


r 


t  1 


A  YACHTING  CRUISE. 


t 


1 
I  ] 


KNOX    AFLOAT, 


Down    the    Richelieu    River    to   the   St. 
Lawrence    Adventures  Among-  the 
French  Canadians— Canal  Yachting 
—The  Pale  Horoe  and  its  Driver- 
Trading:  Devilled  Ham    A 
Waste  of  Good  French. 


A  qiiocr  cxpcriciicc  \vi'  have  liad 
to-day  "twelve  miles  tlirouirli  a  canal  on 
.1  sailiiiij;  yaciit.  It  was  uiiuiue  and  it  was 
\(rv  interesting.  After  leavinu;  liake 
(  lianiplain  we  sailed  down  the  Uielielieu 
Hiver  to  St.  .Johns,  a  town  in  Canada. 
Ifere  we  canx' to  a  seiies  of  rapids.  To 
iret  aronnd  these  it  is  necessary  to  use  the 
(■mai  as  far  as  Ciiamhly.  Before  this 
(.mal  was  made  the  mute  aronnd  tliese 
Lipids  was  a  ti'ail  in  the  woods  used  by 
the  Indians  and  hy  tiie  French  who  fol- 
lowed them.  Over  this  trail,  wluch  was 
(ailed  a  "carry"  or  "portau'c."  they  ear- 
ned their  canoes  and  e(|ui])nu'nts  until 
they  came  to  d'.'cp  water  asjain.  It  was  up 
tlui  Hiciielieu,  then  called  the  "River  of 
the  Iro(|Uois,"  that  ClnimiWain  came  wiien. 
nearly  three  centuries  ajfo,  lie  discovered 
the  lake  that  now  l)i'ars  Ids  name. 

At  St.  .lohns,  where  the  eveninji  before 
we  had  been  hospitably  entertained  by 
members  of  the  yacht  club  and  by  .Mayor 
Macdon  hi.  we  entered  the  first  lock  of 
the  ("hambly  Canal. 

It  was  at  4  81)  in  the  morninp;  when  a 
French  Camidian.  who  looked  like  a 
pirate  who  had  been  uj)  all  niiiht  and  had 
forjrotten  to  clianjrt'  his  clothes  or  wash 
his  face  since  the  fall  of  Quebec,  awoke 
us  with  a  wild  yell  a.s  we  lay  out  in  the 
river  off  the  town.  He  desiri'd  to  inform 
us  that   lie  was  the   man  who  had   been 


22 


^ 


i»< 


/, 


i\n- 


i 


eii.<;ii!XC'(I  to  i)il()t  us  tlironsh  tlic  viisty 
(Icptlis  of  the  ciiiial.  H<'  liad  altoul  one 
limidii'd  fi'it  of  rope  in  liis  liiiiid.  and  to 
oiu-  end  of  llic  rope  was  attached  ii  pale 
horse  of  nondescript  breed  and  uiiotescpie 
structure.  Tliis  brute— I  refer  to  the 
liorse— was  spavined  and  had  an  impedi- 
ment in  his  aft-starboard  leir.  (You  see 
I  am  ijettinir  jtosted  in  maritime  hintruaj^e 
already.)  Wiien  he  lifted  this  \c>jr  he  did 
it  witli  a  jerii  as  if  lie  liad  stcjjped  on  ii 
tai  k.  lie  stood  a))out  thirteen  and  a  half 
iiands  aliove  tiie  water  line,  and  tlie  oidy 
riiTirini;  he  carried  was  tlie  rope  aforesaid, 
a  siiiirletree  and  a  saddle. 

AN'e  ])nlled  into  the  lock,  the  irate  was 
closed  after  us,  the  forward  irate  raised, 
and  on  the  risinir  waters  the  ('haaiplain 
tlo;ited  until  her  deck  was  level  with  the 
top  of  the  lock.  .\s  the  sun  appeared  ovjt 
the  eastern  hills  we  ])assed  out  of  the  lock 
into  the  canal,  the  tow  line  was  made  fast 


/ 


/ 


.^f^ 


to  the  vaclit,  the  driver  swore 


and 


ini-:  I'.M.K  noKSK  (ivitKi) 

into  the  tow-path,  and  promenaded  north 
with  a  swinirinir  eccentric  stride.  The 
yacht  went  rushinir  Ihronirh  the  wild 
waste  of  forty  feel  of  siiririnir  waters  at 
the  I'atc  of  tlii'cc  to  four  miles  an  hour. 

1  have  a  lunnber  of  friemls  who  like 
_>:iclitinir-,  but  deny  themselves  the 
pleasure,  fearinir  the  att<'nd;int  danirer. 
They  talk  of  s<pndls,  and  ca|)sizinir  and 
riuuiinir  on  a  lee  shore,  and  that  sort  of 
thinir-  Now.  to  all  sm  h  tindd  people  let 
me  commend  can.-il  yacht iiiir.  You  have 
all  the  pleasure  tiiat  you  wotdd  have  on 
the  briny  deep.  For  instance,  you  can 
keep  your  comb  and  l)rusli,  and  socks 
and  tobacco,  and  soap,  and  cracKers  all 
in  one  locker,  just  the  same  as  if  you  were 
yachlinir  on  the  azure  nniin,  and  the  wood 
of  the  locker  will  j^et  dump  and  sw«'ll,  and 
the  thinjj;  wont  open. 

On  11  cainil  there  are  the  same  facilities 

23 


t 


III 


for  fivllin<i  over  nU'vw  sheets  and  bobstiiys 
and  bucikets  as  there  are  elsewhere.  IJe- 
suh's  this,  eaiial  yiW'liting  really  offers 
advantajj;es  and  lihKiue  privilej^es  that 
cannot  be  had  on  lake  or  sea  There  are 
no  sails  to  trim,  no  jibboom  to  knock  off 
yonr  caji  antl  hit  you  on  the  back  of  the 
neck  as  it  gylu^s,  and,  instead  of  running 
before  the  "wind  with  your  cap  laslietl 
down  over  your  ears,  you  don't  run  at  all; 
you  merely  glide  along  in  the  wake  of  a 
"fifteen  dollar  horse  who  does  not  feel 
himself  above  his  business.  Then,  if 
yo'ir  liorse  siiouhl  stray  into  a  corntield 
and  run  you  on  a  lee  shore,  you  can  step 
off  the  deck  on  to  lee  shore  and  buy  some 
buttermilk.  Or,  if  you  fall  overboard  and 
go  to  the  bottom,  you  can  stand  up  on  the 
broken  ])iekle  bottles  and  lost  buckets 
that  canalers  havt;  dropped  overboard 
and  that  you  will  find  there.  Should  the 
yacht  capsize  in  midstream  you  can  run 
along  th(!  mainmast  and  drop  down  a 
farm  house  chimney,  or  swing  yourself 
off  on  to  a  haystack. 

I  tell  you — and  I  speak  from  experience 
— there  be  many  advantages  in  canal 
yachting  of  which  the  deep  sea  yachtsman 
little  woteth. 

When  the  yachtsman  on  the  moaning  sea 
wants  to  stop  he  has  to  reef  his  sail  and 
cast  hirt  anchor.  When  we  wish  to  pause 
in  our  mad  career  on  the  canal  we  have 
merely  to  say  "Belay"  to  the  driver  on 
the  tow-jiath,  and  he  says  "Whoa,"  or  its 
French  etjuivalent,  to  the  pale  horse,  and 
that  makes  him  stop  with  an  enthusiasm 
that  scatters  gravel  over  the  adjacent 
scenery.  I  never  saw  a  horse  that  could 
stop  in  a  more  unanimous  way  or  belay 
on  such  small  provocation.  He  also  occa- 
sionally made  an  extemporaneous  stop. 
One  of  these  occasions  was  nearly  being 
his  la-^t.  There  was  a  light  breeze,  an(l 
we  had  put  up  a  small  sail  to  lighten  the 
labour  of  the  old  liorse.  The  speed  ob- 
tamed  by  the  yacht  under  sail  required 
that  he  sliould  trot  to  keep  the  tow  line 
taut.  He  missed  his  driver  who  had 
stepped  into  a  house  to  get  a  light  for  his 
pipe,  and  he  made  one  of  his  impromptu 
pauses.  It  was  not  quite  what  could 
properly  be  called  a  full  stop,  but  more  in 
the  nature  of  a  semicolon.    The  yacht  kept 


,  « 


,rr-%N 


mv'"'!^*^<''" 


■V 

I 


■^'•>.,>r'w'''4>i\.... 


24 


fe 


on  at  (loiihln  tlic  liorsc's  speed  and  tlicre 
was  no  means  of  stopping;  lier.  We  sud- 
denly realized  that  if  that  liorse  did  not 
toddler  along  with  more  veloeity  Ihere 
would  presently  ho  a  dire  catastrophe. 
We  were  lunchinu;  on  deck  at  the  moment 
and  we  promptly  got  up  from  the  table. 
There  was  great  tumult  for  u  time  aiul  we 
began  shouting  at  the  horse  to  go  on. 
The  artist  in  his  excitement  yelled, 

WIIOOI'I    GIT  tl'II    FIIJE  1 

and  hit  liim  on  the  jerky  leg  with  a  cold 
potato.  Our  impetuous  cook  threw  a 
stove  lid  at  him  and  the  captain  put  his 
whole  soul  into  a  few  boisterous  notes  on 
the  fog  horn.  Deafn"ss  seemed  to  l)e  on(! 
of  the  liorsc's  many  intirmities  Our  cries 
of  warning  he  liee'ded  not.  The  tow  line 
became  slack,  dipped  in  the  water,  trailed 


along  in  a  great  loop,  then  as  the  yaclit 
forged  aliead  of  the  horse  the  line  "grad- 
ually straightened  out,  rose  dripping 
from  the  water,  became  taut,  and  whang! 
splash!  yacht  and  horse  liad  changed 
places;  the  yacht  was  towing  the  hor.se 
"stern  on,'*  as  the  nautical  phrase  goes. 
I  caimot  do  descriptive  justice  to-the  wild 
and  voluble  excitement  of  the  pirate 
driver  when  he  saw  us  .sailing  away  with 
his  pale  horse  surging  in  our  wake,  anci 
for  the  same  reason  I  must  leave  you  to 
imagine  the  pulling,  hauling  and  profanity 
required  to  get  the  brute  ashore. 

I  had  a  picture  made  of  the  yacht  and 
her  motive  power.  It  was  made  from  a 
photograph  taken  on  the  spot.  I  instruct- 
ed the  photographer  to  include  me  in  the 
work  of  art.  If  he  had  obeyed  my  orders 
the  picture  would  have  graced  this 
column.  Ilis  only  excuse  for  not  includ- 
ing me  in  the  photograph  was  tliat  at  the 

25 


time  it  was    taken   1  was  on  aiicad  a',  a 
farmhouse,  a  mile  away. 

TUADING   DKVII.I.En    IIAM. 

I  was  at  a  farmhouse  trviiii;  to  trach'  a 
can  of  devilled  liam  for  a  pound  of  butter. 
I  would  not  advise  anyone  to  attempt 
tills  with  a  Freneh-C'anadian.  Those  wiio 
are  on  terms  of  intimacy  with  j)otted  ham 
know  that  there  is  a  jiicture  of  Satan  with 
the  conventional  horns,  hoof  and  tail 
inlaid  in  red  ink  on  each  can.  This 
probably  i>rejudiced  the  fariiier  ajrainst  it. 
I  cxi)lained  to  iiim  in  my  most  i'arisian 
French  what  it  was.  lie  said  he  would 
rather  not  have  me  do  it  lu-ar  the  house. 
but  that  if  I  wished  to  jjo  down  behind 
the  blulf  I  miirlit  touch  the  tliinu;  off  there, 
where  the  explosion  could  not  damaiie 
anythinsr.  I  saw  that  he  had  failed  io 
luiderstand  nu'.  Some  of  these  Canadians 
s]teak  dreadful  French.  It  is  harsh  and 
acuttural.  and  not  at  all  tin;  French  "as  she 
is  spoke"  by  me.  It  seems  to  me  that  it 
would  <j;ive  a  man  a  sore  tiiroat  to  even 
think  in  such  a  pntnix.  I  explained  that 
the  stuff  was  not  an  ex]>!osive,  diat  it  was 
plain,  everyday,  ^raiuilated  h-a  double  m 
— ham,  and  I  sup|)lemented  this  state- 
ment with  sijrns  intended  to  convey  the 
idea  that  it  was  jrood  toeat.  lie  shook  his 
head  and  said  tliat  he  knew  all  about  it, 
had  tried  it  once,  that  they  dhl  die  in  the 
house,  and  that  traps  or  terrier  (loirs  were 
good  enouiih  for  him. 

I  would  suiriTi'st  to  those  whomay  hcre- 
aftei  go  canal-yachting  in  Canada  that 
they  do  not  waste  a  good  article  of  Fi<'nch 
language  nor  a  can  of  seaworthy  devilled 
ham  on  the  farmer  they  may  meet  by  the 
wayside.  If  he  did  tiade  he  would  iu)t 
appreciate  the  ham,  and  would  ])ossibly 
use  it  as  a  shaving  lather  or  a  ])lug  to  stop 
a  leak  in  a  wheel-barrow.  He  si'cms  to 
be  addicted  to  salt  bacon  which  he  uses 
as  food,  and  the  butler-milk  habit  has 
such  a  hold  on  him  that  he  cares  for  no 
other  stimulant. 

I  left  the  horny  handed  Canadian  son 
of  toil  without  succeeding  in  making  a 
tra(U'.  but  I  had  my  little  revenge.  I 
dropped  the  ham  into  his  well.  Some  day 
when  the  can  attains  a  state  of  noxious 
desuetude,  it  will  burst,  and  he  will  think 
he  has  struck  a  vein  uf  anticjue  lard  in  his 
drinkinu;  water. 


I 


26 


LOG  OF  THE  YACHT  CHAMPLAIN 


The    Yachtsmen    Cross    the 
International    Line. 


KNOX'S  OBSERVATIONS. 


His  Kap  and  Comparisons  Between 
Travel  Here  and  in  Canada. 


On  the  map  that  I  carry  with  me 
there  is  a  marked  contrast  between  Can- 
ada and  the  United  States.  On  this 
chromatic  chart  Canada  is  distinguished 
by  a  pale  glacial  hue,  suggestive  of  furs, 
frostbites  and  snowshoes.  There  seems 
to  be  a  vast  expanse  of  empty  landscape 
and  vacant  lots  between  towns  and  tlie 
whole  country  appears  to  be  sparsely 
settled  with  the  few  large  letters  of  the 
alphabet  that  constitute  the  names  of 
the  several  provinces.  But  on  this  map 
of  mine  the  United  States  is  all  aglow 
with  warmth  of  color,  and  the  railroad 
lines  are  so  numerous  that  they  hardly 
leave  room  for  mountain  lops  to  appear 
between  them,  and  there  are  mighty 
rivers  depicted,  and  the  cities  and  towns 
and  villages  are  so  numerous  that  their 
names  are  crowded  over  the  edge  of  the 
contioent,  so  that  tneir  last  syllables 
float  out  on  the  waves  of  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  oceans.  The  map  was 
not  printed  in  Canada. 

As  we  sail  through  Canadian  rivers 
we  note  almost  as  much  contrast  bet- 
ween the  two  countries  as  is  shown  on 
the  map. 

When  we  cross  the  northern  frontier 
of  the  United  States  there  is  no  mis- 
taking the  fact  that  we  are  in  Canada; 
but  the  contrast  is' not  due  to  color,  as 


27 


now 
The 
har- 
0  us 
ked 
pro- 
/een 
the 
in  a 

hool 

were 

gine 

'heir 

bout 

0  be 

as, 

or 

ved 

up 

^re 

he 

ley 

.'111, 

go 

lade 

his 

-hen, 

:    tilt- 

ncuth 

I  also, 

)e  rc- 

lined 

•)oisc 

Uintr 

t  be 

lec- 

ler- 


roni 

I  be- 

riieii 

'ater 

non 

our 

St. 

•X. 

in 
rl 
k 

'C 

k 
f 


it  is  on  my  map.  Tlie  lum  of  meadow 
and  wood,  river  and  sl<y,  is  just  tlie  suuie 
that  we  see  in  the  Stales;  but  when  we 
come  to  observe  and  study  tlie  people, 
their  homes  and  their  habits,  we  note 
a  great  difference.  Of  the  4,500.000  in- 
habitants  of  this  country,  there  are 
almost 

A  Million  and  a  Half 

who  are  French  or  of  French  descent, 
and  who  still  speak  the  language  of 
France  and  conform  to  French  customs 
in  many  things. 

In  some  of  the  towns  there  is 
hardly  a  sign  (on  store  or  wall)  painted 
or  printed  in  English.  In  the  country 
many  of  the  houses  are  thatched  with 
straw,  and  their  pointed  gables  and 
queer  little  windows  give  them  a  quaint, 
old-world  aspect.  Years  ago  how  hard 
it  must  have  been  for  the  French  of 
Canada  to  put  the  English  yoke  around 
their  necks,  and  how  difficult  for  a  man 
whose  forefathers  fought  under  Na- 
poleon at  Waterloo,  or  manned  the 
guns  within  Quebec,  to  cheer  with  wild 
enthusiasm  on  the  birthday  of  Queen 
Victoria.  Yet  I  am  told  that  these 
people  are  among  the  most  loyal  sub- 
jects of  her  gracious  majesty.  Queer 
isn't  it  ?  It  hardly  seems  right  that 
they  should  be  governed  by  a  people 
who  are  of  another  race  and  who  speak 
a  different  language.  The  English 
never  treated  them  as  nations  usually 
treat  a  conquered  people,  and  perhaps 
that  accounts  for  their  loyalty.  When 
Canada  was  lost  to  France  and  came 
under  British  rule,  the  English  did 
everything  possible  to  make  the  change 
easy  and  pleasant  to  the  Canadians. 
They  allowed  them  to  retain  their  lands, 
the  French  laws  were  but  slightly 
changed,  and  religious  liberty  was  ac- 
corded them 

There  are  many  evidences  of  thrift 
to  be  seen  as  we  sail  down  the  Riche- 
lieu river  past  farmhouses  and  .  barns, 
fields  of  golden  wheat  and  oats,  and 
meadows  rich  in  grass  and  clover. 
There  are  farmhouses  in  sight  all  the 
time  on  both  banks  of  the  river,  and 
every  three  or  four  miles  there  is  a 
church.  It  is  like  a  village  of  many 
miles  in  length,  with  the  river  as  its 
only  street.  There  are  but  few  evi- 
dences  of  progress  or  improvement  to 
be  seen.  There  is  none  of  that  dispo- 
sition to  open  up  and  develop  the  new 
and  to  improve  the  old  that  is  charac- 
teristic of  the  enterprising,  progressive, 
restless  people  on  the  other  side  of  the 
line.    The  great,  gaunt  hand  of 

28 


.1 


Tho  Frost  Xinar 
comes  down  heavily  on  these  people. 
His  reign  is  cruelly  oppressive.  He 
locks  up  canals  and  rivers— the  Cana- 
dians' great  arteries  of  commerce — 
during  many  dreary  months  of  every 
year,  and  the  farmer's  seed  time  and 
harvest  are  but  of  short  duration. 

A  beautiful  country  this  is  in  the 
summer;  but  in  winter  how  bleak  and 
bare  and  frigid  it  must  seem.  No  won- 
der that  when  that  ancient  mariner, 
Jacques  Cartier,  discovered  this  north- 
land,  and  sailed  along  its  stem  and 
rocky  coast,  he  said :  *'  It  verily  seem- 
eth  as  if  this  might  be  the  land  to 
which  God  banished  Cain." 

There  are  many  ways  to  travel,  but 
if  you  desire  to  travel  for  pleasure  and 
rest,  let  me  commend  to  you  a  sailing 
yacht  as  a  pleasant  means  of  locomo- 
tion ;  and  if  you  want  to  get  away  from 
the  giddy  world's  unrest,  from  cares  of 
business,  and  from  all  the  worries  and 
petty  annoyances  that  make  life  in  the 
city  a  daily  round  of  wearying  toil,  I 
say  to  you  go  and  do  as  we  are  doing. 

"  Cannot  Spare  the  Time," 
you  say?  Ah,  well,  then  go  on,  my 
friend,  and  worry  and  toil,  and  get 
worn  and  weary  and  exhausted,  and 
one  day  you  will  "spare  the  time;" 
aye,  as  far  as  this  world's  work  is  con- 
cerned, you  will  spare  not  only  time,but 
eternity,  too;  and  by  the  time  you 
should  have  died,  if  you  had  lived  a 
natural  life,  temperate  in  labor  and  in- 
dulgent in  rest,  the  world  will  be  whirl- 
ing around  as  smoothly  as  if  you  had 
never  been,  and  you  will,  long  before, 
have  been  in  your  grave  and  forgotten. 
When  the  Lord  made  men  he  did  not 
intend  that  they  should  be  gray-haired, 
physical  wrecks  at  40,  as  so  many  are. 
He.doubtless,  intended  that  they  should 
not  only  work,  but  rest. 

The  majority  of  Americans  do  not 
seem  to  know  how  to  rest.  True, 
many  leave  the  city  in  the  summer, 
presumedly  In  search  of  rest,  but 
where  do  they  go  ?  Mostly  to  other 
cities  and  to  crowded  seaside  villa^s 
where  there  is  no  rest.  The  characic  i 
of  labor  and  effort  merely  is  changed,  [ 


29 


!1 
II 


^^l 


f 


(i\imiuiw\vuii\n\iuiiHi(iii»hu\M(\i\\yvv\h\iins»i\\i)/|M\iiii\\ii((iiJ'*i' 

I.IIM" 

and  they  experience  as  much  physical 

and   mental    wear   and   tear  as  they 

would  if  they  had  remained  at  home. 

But  you,  my  brother  of  the  blue  shirt 

and  sun-bronzed  face — you  who,  to  es-  / 

cape  the  tumult  and  the  throng  of  men 

and  the  vain  cares  that  vex  human  life 

— go  to  mountain,  lake  or  river  with 

gun  or  rod,  paddle  or  sail,  I  give  my 

hand  to  you. 

And  you  who  swelter  in  the  heat  of 
city  or  town,  how  you  would  envy  us 
if  you  could  focus  your  mind's  eye  on 
us,  and  see  ub  now,  this  cold,  breezy 
morning,  as  we  sail  down  along  the 
northern  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A 
night  of  restful  sleep,  such  sleep  as  de- 
pends on  pure  air,  moderate  exercise, 
a  tranquil  mind,  and  a  body  not  ex- 
hausted by  labor  or  dissipation ;  then 
a  swim  at  sunrise,  a  row  of  a  mile  or 
so,  an  appetite  for  ham  and  eggs,  the 
possession  of  which  is  a  delight,  an 
appetite  that  we  lose  and  find  three  or 
four  times  a  day— all  this  we  have. 


«^ 


•  • 


I 


And  after  breakfast  here  we  are  with 
pipe  in  mouth,  stretched  prone  on  the 
quarter  deck,  lazily  watching  the  ever- 
changing  scenery  go  drifting  by,  as 
our  yacht  courses  down  the  current  of 
the  great  river  of  the  north. 

Danger?  Well,  no;  nothing  like 
the  danger  that  hangs  hourly  over  you 
in  Boston.  I  might,  perhaps,  get 
choked  to  death  with  a  fishbone  stuck 
in  my  windpipe,  or  I  might  fall  over  a 
lee  scuttle,  or  a  maintop  combing,  or 
some  other  nautical  obstruction,  and 
abrade  my  skin,  but  that  is  tlie  only 
danger  to  life  or  limb  that  I  think  we 
risk.  There  is  no  sewer  gas  to  fear,  no 
chimneys  to  fall  on  us,  no  policemen 
to  club  us,  no  mad  dogs  to  bite  us,  no 
street  cars  to  run  over  us,  no  man  with 
a  bill  to  ambush  us.  and,  above  all,  no 
"  keep  off  the  grass  "  signs  to  admon- 
ish us,  and  no  chance  to  be  summoned 
on  a  jury 

How  do  we  spend  the  time  do  you 
say  ?  Well,  we  simply  spend  most  of 
it— squander  it,  doing  nothing,  and  we 
think  that  is 

The  Best  Use  To  Which  Holiday  Time 

can  be  put.  I  have  no  patience  with 
those  old  "  improve  the  fleeing  hour " 
frauds  who  are  always  firing  at  us  ad- 
monitions   to    the    effect   that,   if  we 


mon 
The. 
men 
we  sh^ 
out  of 
(any  iiiT/ 
the  cal  V 
if 

bra'*' 
all  tha' 
ments 
havf 
th 


31 


MAP 


% 


would  only  profita^y-«/eTc..Tc'' 
moments    «^;!°"12' the  golden  mo- 

They  tell  us  .'^^J'.^J^rinlo  eternity. 
mcntsgohowlmK  down^  ^  ^^^ 

wc  should  occas  onai  y  them 

out  of  tl»c  c'^^^"*!,'^^  "l"nv  Sill  {""^i«^  , 
(any  V'^^J^VT  Why  an/one  can  do  this  1 
the  calcndat).  ^^'y-'yig    „ot  needed, 
if  he  wishes ,    genius  18  y. 

brains   are  "«  J  's  to  snatch  the  mo- 

ftU  that  is  \-'^'l^";^'^^'i  use   licm.  -Many 

tnents  as  they  fly  '^^^\'?,  tune  by  doing  ' 

^^^'"'YmKe    doubtless,  read   in 
this.     \  ou    I'ayt,  u  J  jjg  „,jin 

your  Sundrw  sc  ool     ooks    ^.^^^^ 

who  every  day  "/''^^[J        ,i  ^t  tlie  end  ' 
he  was  sU'^ving  o  wr  te  an       ^^^^_^^j_ 

of  one  year  l^^'^.  .^  Wuy  of  Using! 
,„,,e  treatise  on  ::'|V'jancs Ferguson.  , 

Worms  as  ^^''^  ...^''vunc  standing  on 
(hiring  one  winter    vvim  ^^.^^   ^^ 

the  register  w^uuig  ^or  ^^^^^_ 

warm  the  bed  '"J^^ercc  William 
wive  bustle  of  «°"''"^' t\ons  of  the 
Penn  g^a^^l^ed  snmll    sc  t    n^^  ,^ 

nth  century  ^^.f  ^^^J'^  \o  settle,  and 
morning  ^.'^^/'^in  settling  Pennsyl- 
he  utilized  ili^'»\'"^J:,t  Philadelphia, 
vania  and  in  ^^^^'^  that  both  New 

I  have  read  "ST;;,^,!:,^    ^jd  out  Pl^il'^^'^^-  i 

^Sbrip'rSreS---"^^^^ 

^^Cfl^^.;  Governor  of  Mass.^^^^^^ 

while  ^.^'[{"S J,\>^^,V\Sents  profit. J 
employed  the  goiatu  ^^ 

ably.    We  are  told  thai  u     ^.        gred 
of  these  occasions  that  be  a    ^^^^  ^,^^ 

beans.    Aa  uncle  ^^"""ifite  washed  his  ' 

French  langiag'^.^^'^a  mortgage.        , 

barn-while  pay^g^^f/^  TJv^i  that ' 

Yes,  time  ^^XiJihehcsi  advan- 
we  should  use  >t.all  Jo  the  o^s  | 

tage.   Even  f«,;"""^'e3  a  three-month 
of  lime  that   It    t^^^sj        ^^^^^  ^^^ 
„ote  to  "lature  m  the  ban  .^  ^^_ 

utiUzed.  If  oiily  m  Ijy^ J    tol  was   a  \ 
newed.     ^eorgu  ^  bis 

great   man,  but  j)®   "'         jie  could 
fcraps  of  time  to  g^od  «  «•  ^^^  ^^p^.^,^  ] 

£S^SngS%.;^KS 

Sve^SrafmBtSt-^s^edaUaras' 
any  of  us. 


32 


II 


A 


AEMOT  KNOX  GETS  MAD 

ATTUKOODrATMER.HOr  Ol'RI.lUUS 


Il<>  DtHCoarflrM  iDdlflrniiiilly  nutt  Bin* 
fliiicutly  I'poii  iho  ttHtl  iMMlo  UiH|ili«jreit 
iu  These  Modera  Uii.tm  lu  niiiiiiin;( 
frorolneut  i'arH  oi  the  llarlirM  l'ru<*t 
—  Au  Inf<>rcfttiiii;Couililnatloii  ol'  CdOk 


On  Boaud  Yacut  Cuami'Lain.— The  b.id 

taste  of  sonio  of  the  pnuplc  who  hnvc  beoi» 
the  god  fill  liers  of  many  of  our  lakes,  rivers,  ■ 
mount.'iiniJ,  aud  other  prominent  sections  of 
the  earth's  crust  is  painful  lo  think  of,  ])ut 
evidence  of  it  grcct^s  \is  every  day.  It  sticLs 
out  and  obtriule-s  itself  on  us  on  every  h<ind. 
In  these  modern  days  is  there  neither  pwtry 
nor  sentiment  in  the  people  who  give  names 
lo  places  end  things?  The  savage  apprrcinted 
and  selcf  led  names  that  were  full  of  rli)1lim 
and  melody.  Thee'ernul  untituess  of  calling 
a  goodly  valley 

"DOO-THOT   nOLLOW" 

did  not  take  hold  on  the  untutored 
Indian;  nor  did  it  ever  cuter  into  the 
minds  of  the  Spanish  or  French 
vho  came  after  them  to  disgrace  a 
picturesque  mountain  peak  with  sueh  a  name 
as  "Dolan's  Nubbin."  Neither  did  tliey 
name  their  towns  after  .Jones,  the  railroad 
freight  airent,  or  for  the  aldemjinie  Scrog^s. 
as  the  people  of  the  United  States  do  "so 
often.  The  Indians  selected  words  with 
jDcauing  and  music  in  them  and  the  Spanish 
and  French,  after  using  up  'lie  names  of  all 
the  saiiii^,  searched  the  realms  of  poetry  and 
■sweet  sounds  for  names,  fur  instance,  wh?n 
an  Indian  wished  to  uive  a  ilistinctive  ap- 
p<  Ilation  to  a  jilace  at  the  comlueuce  of  two 
slieams.  ho  would  call  il  "Tlieplaee-wher*- 
tlie-bright-wnters-meet  -  aud-don't-you-forgct- 
that-il's-a-daisy-spot,"  or 

irVPUENATtD  JNDIAN     WORDS  TO  THAT    EK 
FECT. 

lie  •was  never  stiairy  in  tlu)  matter  of  syl 
lables.  lie  would  give  a  lake  or  river  its 
full  name,  even  if  it  took  half  the  languairc 
he  tarried  with  him  to  do  it.  Indian  travel- 
ers who  mnxle  a  business  of  discovering  and 
naming  nlaces  liave  been  known  to  use  up 
almost  their  whole  vocabulary  in  a  week's 


33 


I 


I'    iri|)raii<Yrc(urn  to  their  tribe  withont  liiilf  ft 
,r^  dozen  com  plt'tc  sentences  to  their  backs,    I 
visited  a  Inlcc  liist  weeitaud  it  is  one  of  llio 
loveliest  dimples  that  I  huvncver  scon  on  this 
old  globe's  connleniince.     Il  was  formerly 
(  known  by  three  dilTerciilnaines:  Paskuni^a 
J  i\  meh,   which    means    going    out   from  the 
river.   Isil-knni-a-  ta-resko-wa,   the  greatest  ^ 
\  of  the  beautiful  lakes;  and    A-royunn.   "the  U" 
,  "waters  of  the  emerald  rocks."    Now  don't 
you  ll)ink  that  the  Virniont  Yankees  would 
have  been  saiisfied  with  some  of  these  nanics 
or  even  a  section  of  one  of  tbem.     If  he  con- 
sidered Isitkan-i  a-ta-rcs-kowa  too  long  for 
every  day  use  he  could  have  saved  a  piece 
out  of  the  middle  of  it  and,  with  ends  neatly 
spliced,  he  would  have  had  a  name  that  cer- 
tainly   would   have  been  more  euphonious 
than  the   one  tiie  lake  now  beai"^.    Some 
thirty  years  ago  a  surveyor  lost  his  way  iu 
the  mountains  and    wandered  throu;?h  the 
wilderness  until  he  arrived  at  this  lake.    A 
search  party  trailed  him  and  he  was  found 
.  there.    The  name  of  the  wretch  was  Tupper 
i|and  now  A.roy-una,  "the  waters  of  the  era 
"  era  Id  rocks"  is  known  only  aa  "Bug  Tup- 
per." 
Il  was  bad  enough  for  our  forefathers  to 
.murder    the  owners    of    these   lands  and 
///waters  after  stealing  their  property,   but  it 
/  was  adding  to  the  crime  to  take  oway  the 
'l  musical  names  ^iven  by  the  savage,  and  it 
'  was    heapimr   insult  on   injurv  to  replaco 
those  names  with  the  tuneless  afssonance  of 
the  Yankee  vocabulary.    While  on  this  sub- 
ject of  names  let  mo  tell  you  of  something 
I  saw  yesterday  that  illustrates  how  some 
human  pigmies,  who  would  be  forgotten  in 
a  year  and  a  day  after  their  death,  .vill  strive 
to  push  their  little   names   into    the  future 
that  posterity  may  be  deceived  iato  thinking 
that   they   were   giants.    The  same   vanity 
that  actuates  the  discoverer  of  Jones'  river, 
aud  the  founder  of  McGonigalville  prompts 
these  people  to  force  their  names  into  the 
ages  to  comCjby  attaching  them  to  the  names 
or  deeds  of  some  of  the   great  ones  of  the 
earth.    1  walked  over 

'mS  ?LAIKS  OP  ABRAOAM 

yesterday  and  on  that  blood  bought  field 
■where  tf ,'  licroic  Wolfe  valiantly  fought 
and  hiiivriy  died.  I  saw  a  modest  granite 
monument.  On  a  small,  square  on  one  side 
Avas  this  inscription: 

; riereiilert : 

:  WOLFE,  : 

viotoTtous,  : 

:  Sept.  13tii,  1758.    : 

On  the  opposite  side  on  a  much  larger 


34 


I 


^ 


square  was  gmveu;— 


T  II  P  fl      r  I   I,  L  A   II 

WhsKrcoU'dby  thf 
BRITISU  AHMV  IN  CANADA 

:  A.  I).  iwi», 

;  Ula  Rxcellency  Lleutiiiant  O<>noral 

8111  nUNJAMIN  P'UUHAN, 
;  a.  C.  D.,   K.  C.  n..    I!.  C.  T.  S.,     Ac. 

:  (.'nmnmudcr 

of  the  Kr)rcos  ; 

This  is  truly  copied — I  couUl  comment  on 
it,  but  I  vveufd  rather  you  \vould  innko  your 
own  comnieuts.  If  I  would  Hfty  what  I 
think  of  this  vain  baronet  with  tiic  alplmbcti- 
Cftl  tnil,  it  would  muiicliis  Itniijhtly  old  shade 
shiver  down  there. 

MEANDUniNO   AROUND. 

What  shall  I  write  you  alwut  this  week? 
It  is  hard  to  choose  a  subject  for  I  have  such 
a  wealth  of  scenes  that  I  would  like  to  de- 
scribe to  you  and  so  many  incidents  interest- 
inc  and  umusinK  I  would  like  to  give  you,  that 
it  u  difRcuU  to  make  a  choice. 


I  ended  my  last  letter  I  think  with  the 
discliar;^e  of  the  pale  horse  nud  our  sail  from 
the  canal.  We  went  out  of  the  canul  into 
Chauibly  basin,  a  bay  in  the  Richelieu  about 
two  miles  wide.  Ciiambly  is  a  small  town. 
I  saw  nothing  worth  noting  there  except  the 
telegraph  oflice.  The  telegraph  agent  is  also 
postmaster  both  in  the  French  and  English 
tongues,  and  he- runs  a  general  store.  He 
will  sell  you  a  can  of  baking  powder  and  a 
postage  stamp  or  a  bottle  of  whi.s.*iey  and  a 
razor  with  cc^ual  fluency  in  cither  language, 
and  if  you  wish  will  throw  in  a  bunch  of 
telegram  blanks  with  each  article  purchased. 
A  large  invoice  of  string  beans  and  axe 
handles  that  he  had  just  received  had 
crowded  the  telegraph  desk  out  into  the 
yard.  He  apologized  for  this  but  kindly  al- 
lowed me  to  sit  on  a  sack  of  flour  and  write 
ray  telegram  on  top  of  a  siJe  of  bacon.  The 
post  ofHce  was  closed  but  he  pried  liie  lid  off 
It  with  a  screw  diiver  when  I  gave  him  a 
letter  whicli  he  dropjjcd  in  and  then  closed 
tiie  pohi  office  again.  The  porst  office  has  a 
square  tin  lid  ou  top  and  is  Iat)elled 

FREbil   B06T0N  CR.\CKEn9. 

As  wc  were  out  of  provisjonsof  every  kind 
I  sent  Arckie,  the  young  man  .vho  cntiots  the 
dual  role  of  cook  and  crew  of  tho  Cham. 
plain,  to  the  store  to  buy  supplies.  There  is 
a  sequel  to  this,  but  as  the  uoveliits  say— let 
lis  not  anticipate.  We  sailed  down  the  river 
to  Sorel  at  wuich  point  the  Richelieu  empties 


ns 


-i  \ 


X 


into  Ihc  St.  Lawronco.  It  was  tiino  for  lunch 
and  ArcLic  wa-i  instructed  to  get  retidy  the 
meal.  He  retired  to  tlic  cockpit,  and  emerg- 
iug  ai'tof  a  few  minute-i  reported  lliat  lUcrc 
v\'a.s  no  coffee.  lie  wa3  told  to  make  tea 
instead  Another  visit  to  ilie  cockpit,  a 
Iiause,  and  again  Archie  emerged — (paren- 
thetically 1  would  say,  us  evidence  of  the  con- 
venience of  our  yadit,  that  emerg- 
ing from  any  i)art  of  her  is  easy, 
3"ou  can  emerge  onto  the  quarter  deck 
from  the  cock  pit  by  making  oue  step  and  a 
stumble  over  a  rope.  We  were  informed 
that  fher(;  wa*;  no  tea  on  board. 

"Ze  tea  was  forgot  to  bi'brung,"  he  said. 

"Well  let  us  have  milk,  and  gel  out  some 
canned  uuat  and  things." 

"Oui,  monsieur." 

Again  Archie  returned  to  the  cock  pit  ap- 
parently to  |)roduce  the  de.'^irod  food,  soon 
he  returned. 

"Ze  milk  she  wiis  Icf  on  .shore  an'  ze 
grocery,  ve  hev  none." 

"Well,  I  suppose  we  can  have  crackers 
and  water,  what  have  you  got  anyhow." 

'•Nozzing,  nionHicur,  ve  hev  ab-so-leetly 
nozzing,  ze  box  of  provisions  vas  no  remem- 
ber to  come  on  Iward." 

'Why,  confound  you,  didn't  you  know 
that  at  lirst  whenyou  were  ordered  to  get 
luncheon?'' 

"Oui,  monsieur." 

"Then  why  didn't  you  say  so  at  once?" 

"I  vauted  to  break  to  monsieur  ze  calam- 
ity by  portions  and  to  not  tell  ze  news  first 
at  one  time  altogether."  It  seems  that  it  is 
I'he  cook'.s  duty  to  buy  supplies  and  the 
crew  s  duty  to  go  ashore  and  bring  them 
aboard.  Archie  in  his  capacity  as  cook 
orilcreii  the  provisions  but  forg<jt  to  instruct 
himself  in  his  capacity  as  crow  to  go  ashoro 
for  them.  We  were  in  a  dilemma,  for, 
there  being  nothing  to  cook,  Archie  imme- 
diately l)ecame  the  crew,  jind  wc  could  not 
then  justly  reprimand  him  for  the  blunder 
of  the  cook;  you  soe  how  nii.xod  the  tiling 
w"".  As  I  am  mixed  in  writing  about  it  I'll 
now  drop  it. 


* 


§ 


;)6 


L    „<_...,-.— r- 


I 


np- 

;00U 


^     % 


i\cnx- 
gel 


r 

first 
it  Is 
■d  the 
lUein 
cook 
struct 
shore 
%,  ior, 
imtne- 
d  not 
lunder 

t\UOR 

it  I'll 


"^ 


AN  INTERNATIONAL  CRUISE. 


ARMOY    KNOX'S    LOG-BOOK. 

The  Plienonicnally  Taciturn  Skipper 
or  tUie  Champlaln— SaiiipIoH  of  Ilia 
monosyllabic  Eloquence -The  Ini» 
prcBMlvc  PlcluresqueiicHH  of  Quebec 
— StrauKc  ContraMM  ot  ilie  New  and 
Old— Vl'hy  a  ChicaKo  Drummer  In- 
Hinted  that  *^ThcMe  Canadians  Is  no 
Good." 

QiTEnEC,  Aug'.  4.— Wo  Imve  n  troapiiro  in  the 
captitin  of  the  (Jhiiini)liiin.  I  hav(;  the  impruusion 
tlmt  he  knows  a  (?i-out  deal,  and  that  lie  niu^-t 
have  a  vast  amount  of  knowledge  stored  up. 
because  he  js  nig-gaiiUy  with  it  and  never  volun- 
tarily squandei-s  any.  What  a  pleasure  it  is, 
once  in  awhile,  to  met^t  ii  tncitnni  man,  after 
sulTcrinir  from  the  volubU'  inanities  of  the-  lotino- 
eious  boiv,  who  interi'ui>ts  your  Ihoujjrhts  witii 
remarks  re>jr"dinR  trivial  things'— remarks  tliat 
rei|uire  no  e  •  ..  nent  or  answer  from  you,  but 
that  t.i(le-tn.  i.  <"  derail  your  train  of  thoujfht 
and  make  you  Wish  that  there  were  no.'  half  so 
much  of  the  English  lauKunRe  na  there  is.  From 
the  dismal  background  of  such  verbose  chatter, 
our  captain's  silence  stands  out  in  blessed  relief. 
He  confines  himself  to  a  few  nautical  phrases  re- 
jfiirdlnK  sails,  and  sheets,  and  helm,  that  he  f\i-o« 
at  the  crew  from  time  to  time,  nnd  ciirt  remarks 
reirurding  objects  on  the  water  or  shore  that  ho 


:n 


J 


•  # 


l!^r%. 


makes,  not  to  Murray  or  myself,  but  that  he  in- 
cidentally drops  for  our  benefit,  if  we  care  to 
catch  them.  For  instance,  when  rounding  a 
bend  in  the  river  we  come  abreast  of  a  pile  of 
cracked  and  fallen  masonry,  be  says,  "Old  fort. 
Indian  name— built  by  French— took  by  British." 
i^gain,  as  we  pass  a  wreck,  near  Quebec,  and  be- 
fore we  can  ask  a  question,  ho  says,  "Eneriish 
ship— West  India— sugar-collision— bust."  Ha 
then. relapses  into  silence  so  profound  that' we 
can-hear  his  corns  ache  up  in  the  forecastle.  I 
would  rather  listen  to  the  captain  keep  hip 
mouth  shut  for  an  hour  than  listen  to  many  a 
more  cultured  man  talk  for  a  whole  day.  Yes- 
terday morning  he  went  ashore  to  purchase 
cgt?s  and  milk  at  a  farm-house.  As  he  came 
rowing  back  in  the  tender,  we  obsened  that  he 
was  breathing  hard  und  had  an  angry  look  in 
one  eye.  The  other  eye  was  closed  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  large  swelling,  so  t^at  there  was  no 
look  in  it  at  all.  His  tronsers  were  badly  torn 
below  the  knee,  and  there  were  scratches  on  the 
naked  leg  that  obtruded  itself  through  the  rent. 
As  he  stepped  aboard,  he  touched  his  cap,  pointed 
to  his  lacerated  trousers,  and  said,  "Dog,"  then 
to  his  damaged  eye  and  said,  "  Man."  He  went 
below  into  the  cockpit  without  another  word, 
but  there  wns  as  much  of  a  story  told  in  the  two 
words  he  did  say  as  many  another  man  would 
have  taken  an  hour  to  tell. 

A  MASTER  OP  LACONICS. 

I  asked  the  captain  to-day  what  was  tho  beat 


,4'' 


'v^~r/> 


/it. 


38 


9 


t- 


way  to  Ball  a  yacht  in  a  roug: h  sea  with  a  strong 
wind  dead  astern.  He  took  his  pipe  from  bis 
mouth  only  long  enough  to  say,  "  Don't." 

'"  But  if  your  channel  is  narrow,  so  that  y.,a 
cannot  change  your  course,  what  then  7 "  I  said. 

"  Anchor." 

I  really  wanted  Information  on  the  subject, 
and  the  captain  was  evidently  opposed  to  run- 
ning before  such  a  wind,  while  I  had  heard 
others  favor  it.  In  all  such  disputed  cases  I 
refer  to  authorities,  so  I  went  below  and,  taking 
my  library  out  of  the  tin  bucket  in  which  it  is 
kept,  turned  to  page  399,  section  7,  under  the 
bead  of  "  Heavy  Weather— Wind  Aft."  I  spent 
half  an  hour  in  committing  to  memory  the  in- 
structions there  given.  Then  I  approached  the 
captain,  who  was  sitting  forward  on  plJe  of  sail 
whipping  the  end  of  a  rope.  I  said,  "  Captain,  I 
think  the  authorities  differ  from  you  regarding 
sailing  a  yacht  before  a  wind  dead  astern." 


He  looked  up  with  iatcicst,  and  iuterrosra- 
tivelysaid,  "So?" 

"  Ves,"  I  responded.  "  They  say.  in  such  cases, 
'  drop  the  peak  of  the  muinsail  until  it  is  just 
square,  in  with  the  jib  smartly,  reef  the  bow- 
sprit and  set  the  storm  jib ;  then  lower  the  fofe- 
cail,  close  reef  and  reset  it.  Make  fast  the 
weather  topping  lift,  lower  the  peak  to  the  lifts, 
trice  up  and  main  tack  to  the  throat  and  the 
main  sail  is  thus  scandalized.  Hold  taut  and  belay 
the  lee  topping  lift,  let  tso  the  main  halliards  and 
haul  the  throat  down  to  the  boom  by  the  tack 
tricing  line;  stow  the  main  sheet,  crutch  and 
lash  the  boom  and  away  you  go  again.' " 
/I  know  I  made  this  quotation  correctly.  Just 
as  printed  in  the  "  Yachtsman's  Manual."  .  When 
I  endjd,  the  kncient  mariner  was  gnzing  at  me 
with  a  stony  stare  that  lasted  for  the  space  of  a 
minute,  while  his  arms  hung  limp  by  bL<<  sides, 
and  I  thougrht  I  had  surely  killed  him.    He  rc- 


;i:i 


covei'etl  with  a  shudder,  hut  he  did  not  speak. 
He  arose  and  went  over  to  the  port  side  and  be- 
gan, in  a  most  vicious  way.  to  untwist  the  kinks 
in  a  coil  of  rope.  He  seems  to  avoid  me  since, 
and  now  and  then  I  catch  his  eye.  with  a  (?lint  of 
awe  and  n  biit  beam  of  bewilderment  in  it,  fur- 
ti\ely  watchinji  rae  from  bc''ind  a  uiast  us  I  sil 
aft  on  II  life-pi-eserver  writing:  this. 

ROCK-THORNED.  CANNON-OIRT  QUEBEC. 

Since  wntiiisr  the  above  wo  have  arrived  at 
Quebec  after  a  splendid  run  of  KK)  miles  down  ,  , 
the  St  Lawrence  from  the  head  of  Lake  St.  I  V 
Peters  The  qneerest  and  <uiaintest  town  in  the  | 
continent  is  tins  lock-throned.  cannon-jrirt  city 
of  (,>ucl>cc  It  hiis  none  of  the  common-place, 
reetanwular  cliiirticteristics  «)f  most  American 
cities.  Ikiilt  on  a  mitrhty  rock  on  one  of  the 
greatest  waterways  in  the  world,  it  is  sur- 
rounded liv  natural  barner^of  preci|>itous  clltfs, 
a 'd  by  wall  and  parapet,  buttress  and  breast- 
work that  make  it  more  ocrfcctlv  fortified  than, 
perhaps,  is  any  other  city  in  the  world  Inhab- 
ited by  a  pcdplc.  the  nuijoi  ity  of  whom  differ  in 
languajze.  cu-^tom  and  iclijrion  from  the  people 
that  nominally  rule  ihcm— crooked  streets  ond 
narrow  lanes.  picture«i|iic  with  the  varied  archi- 
tecture of  throe  centuries,  contrast  of  new  and 
old  everywhere;  seventeenth  century  residences, 


40 


<  ■  V 


m: 


-^i 


thick -walled,  dormer- windowed  and  many- 
cabled,  crowded  upon  and  overshadowed  by 
great  pilca  of  modern  iron-columned  business 
houses:  carts  of  the  same  clumsy  design  and 
heavy  material  us  were  thosp  used  by  tlio  Bri'ton 
peasants  hundreds  of  yeaf§  ago,  jilonj^side  of 
light  and  graceful  carriag^of  tiic  ^tcst  pattern ; 
the  hoarse  sound  of  an  yjxcjiingion  steamer's 
whistle  and  the  rattle  of  the  railroku  cars  niln 
gling  with  the  chimes  of  church  bells— tJcIis 
were  cannon  in  days  of  old  and  that  once  boomed 
out  the  thunders  of  war  in  louder  tones  than 
those  in  which  they  now  call  men  to  the  worship 
of  the  Prince  of  Peace.  — __ 

Yes,  an  odd  and  outr^  place  is  this,  and  columns 
and  columns  could  be  llllcd  with  descriptions  of 
its  many  interesting  features.  Away  up  hero  I 
sit  on  Dufferln  Terrace  a  broad  esplanade 
perched  more  than  half  way  up  the  side  of  a 
gigantic  rock  that  is  crowned  with  the  greatest 
of  all  the  citpdels  over  which  floats  the  Ked 
Cross  of  Eng'  .nd.  Looking  down  far  below  I  sec 
the  great  tide  of  the  mighty  St.  Lawrence  sweep- 
ing around  the  promontory  freighted  with 
drafts  of  all  sizes,  from  the  small  canoe  to  the 
great  raau-of-war.  Here,  close  in-shore,  a  thret-- 
decked  passt'nger  steamer  is  going  to  Montreal ; 
over  there  is  a  big  ship  bound  for  Liverpool  with 
timber,  and  beyond  is  the  United  States  man-of- 
war  Galena,  carrying  the  only  American  tUig  to 
be  seen  except  the  one  that  floats  over  our  own 
craft  yonder  under  the  shadow  of  the  clifl'.  Down, 
-CO  feet  below,  by  the  water's  edge  are  houses  on 
the  roofs  of  which  one  could  drop  a  pebble— cm  ,y 
old  houses,  weather-beaten  and  stained  by  the 
hand  of  time,  are  most  of  them.  It  was  along  that 
narrow  beach  below  that  in  a  snow-storm  many 
years  ago  Montgomery  came  to  meet  Arnold  and 
make  joint  attack  on  the  city;  but  through  the 
blinding  snow  came  a  bullet  from  this  ledge  up 
here,  and  Montgomery  never  met  Arnold.  Ah  me! 
what  romance  and  what  tragedy  have  this  great 
rock  and  that  wide  river  been  the  scene  of.  Wha  t 
memories  of  strife  and  bloodshed  and  great 
men's  names  come  to  me  as  the  twilight  shad- 
ows tho  waters  and- 


1 
1 
t 
1 
t 
t 
r 

I 

e 

l^ 

t 
t 
r 
f 

s; 
a 
a 

I' 
r> 

P 

1 

\\ 

h 

u 

II 

(li 

'ii 

ti 

C( 

til 

P« 

tr 

to 

fr 

ni' 

ri' 

ar 

wt 

tei 

ab 


'3 


i  i!"' 


11 


■  1 1 


Just  as  I,  inspired  by  my  surrounding,  was 
pleasantly  maldng  a  mental  Journey  through 
the  mellow  romances  of  the  past  I  was  rudely 
hauled  into  the  harsh  commercial  present  by  a 
man  with  a  bot-your-ltfe-I-know-what-rm-talk- 
ing-about  tone  of  voice.    He  said : 

"  Mister,  I  see  from  your  rig  that  you  belong 
to  the  Galena  over  there,  and  as  you'rp  from  the 
States,  you  will  understand  what  I  am  going  to 
say.  See  them  roofs  down  there?  Now,  is  it 
any  wonder  that  Canada  Is  slow  and  'way  be- 
hind the  States  in  commerce  and  prosperity,  and 
that  Quebec  is  dead,  sir,  dead?  I'm  travelling 
for  a  Chicago  house.  Just  cast  your  eye  down 
below.  Sec  there  is  a  string  of  roofs  a  mile 
long,  and  there's  10,000  people  promenade'  this 
terrace  every  day,  and  every  ble.8sed  one  of  them 
sees  them  r,  o.  ,  an*  here  isn't  a  solitary  sign  on 
one  of  them.  What  -lo  you  think  of  that  ?  Now. 
I'd  have  '  Use  Smith's  Baking  Powder,' *  Chew 
Angustura  Bitters," How  is  Your  Liver?'  and 
that  sort  of  thing  painted  all  over  them.  Why, 
if  this  blooming  country  was  annexed  to  the 
States  and  I  owned  them  roofs  I'd  make  a  for- 
tune selling  out  advertising  spaces.  That  beats 
hallowed  memories  of  the  pMt.  You  citn't  bay 
beef  steaks  or  underclothes  with  the  memories 
that  cluster  around  a  historic  spot,  but  if  you 
Ijuste  a  four-sheet  circus  poster  on  the  spot,  you 
can  make  some  money.  1  tell  you  these  Cnna- 
dians  is  no  good.  They  don't  know,  to-day, 
whether  they  are  living  B.  C.  or  A.  D.  Let's  go 
and  have  something.  Want  to  wash  the  mildew 
of  this  place  out  of  my  throat." 


I 


•n 


42 


LOG  OF  THE  YACHT  CHAMPUIH. 

Commercinl   Union   with   the 
United  States. 


CANADIAN    TRADE. 


Knox'R  Obserratlons  on  the  LiTecU  of   a 
nigh  Tariff. 

On  Board  Yacht  Champlain,  oflF  Qu(>- 
liec,  Aug.  7.— It  is  along  rivers  that  we 
find  the  oldest  civilization.  On  the  banks 
of  streams  maij  originally  si'ttled.  The 
first  settlements  in  all  new  countries  are 
on  the  shores  of  lake;!,  seas  and  rivers.  It 
is  along  the  great  aittries  of  the  continent 
that  we  find  the  jjeoplt  in  their  lea-st  arti 
ficial  condition,  and  it  is  by  travel  through 
the  waterways  of  a  country  that  we  can 
best  study  its  people,  their  habits  and  cus- 
toms, and  their  social  ond  jKilitical  rela- 
tions and  conditions.  The  traveler  who 
rushes  over  a  country  on  a  railroad  usually 
passes  through  the  worst  parts  of  the 
cities,  towns  and  villages,  and  the  most 
jjoorJy  developed  section  of  the  agricul- 
tural districts.  He  leaves  with  an  idea 
that  the  towns  consist  of  comfortless  rail- 
road stations,  tnujk-laden  omnibuses,  of- 
fensive backyards,  prolific  clothes  lines, 
smoke-lKjgr'MUHl  factories,  and  the  miser- 
able tenen'  nts  of  the  working  peo})le  who 
are  too  pcor  to  own  homes.  And  his  im- 
pression is  that  the  country  is  maile  uj)  of 
rocks,  patent  mwlii-ine  signs,  telegrajih 
poles  and  the  ixiorer  class  of  farms.  It  is 
not  alwaj's  thus,  but  generally  that  is 
what  he  sees,  and  it  is  from  that  he  forms 
his  mature  impressions.  The  jn'oplc  he 
meets  are  the  hotel  clerk  and  the  baggage- 
man, the  railroad  conductor  and  the  ven- 
der of  auti(pie  figs  and  j'estenUiy  morn- 
ing's j>aiK'i's,  and  these  are  not  rej)reseiita- 
tive  citizens  of  any  country,  nor  will 
converse  with  them  teach  him  inuch.  His 
time  and  attention  are  taken  uj)  with  the 
packing  of  trunks  an<l  tlie  catching  of 
trains,  and  he  can  devote  but  little  of  either 
to  what  he  st>es  and  hears.  Knowing  this 
from  exjHirience,  we  selectixl  a  yacht  as  a 
means  of  locomotion,  and  the  lakes  and 
river  as  a  route  on  which  to  travel.  We 
are  never  hurried.  We  can  stop  as  long  as 
we  i)lea.se  at  j)laces  or  with  iieoj)le  wlio  in- 
terest us,  and  there  is  no  coudiK 'tola's '' all 
aboard"'  to  disturb  or  hurry  us  away. 

AT  QUEBEC 

we  have  stayed  several  days,  visited  the 
falls  of  Montmorenci,  the  Indian  village  of 
Lorette  and  the  shrine  of  the  g<xKl  Si. 
Anne,  where  the  virtues  of  the  waters  and 
the  prayers  of  j)riest  and  patient  are  sai<l 
to  perform  miracles.     We  have  been  enter- 


43 


taincd  at  the  Quebec  Yaehl  Club  and  the 
Garrison  club,  and  have  been  at  a  yacbt 
race.  Regarding  all  of  this  yuu  may  read 
in  a  future  letter.  To-day  I  want  to  speak 
of  Quebec  and  of  some  thinirs  I  nave 
learned  there. 

Quebec,  one  of  the  oldest  cities  on  the 
continent,  with  a  history  that  is  led  with 
the  blood  of  savage,  French,  English  and 
American,  situated  on  a  rocky  promon- 
tory that  makes  it  the  most  uninue  among 
the  cities  of  the  New  World,  antl  with  sur- 
roundings that  are  rich  in  the  romantic 
and  picturesque,  volumes  could  be  written 
on  its  peculiarities  and  interesting  features 
without  exhausting  the  subject. 

I  shall  only  give  you  a  few  cold  and  un- 
adorned facts  and  statistics.  Inhabitants 
H0,000,  more  than  nine-tenths  of  whom  arc 
French  or  of  French  desscent.  City  Coun- 
cil composed  of  four  Protestants,  four  Irish 
Catholics  and  IB  French  Catholics  The 
Roman  Catholic  religion  predominates. 
The  French,  not  only  in  the  city,  but  in  the 
province  of  Quecec,  are  largely  in  the  ma- 
jority, and  govern  local  matters.  They 
lire  more  conservative  and  less  progressive 
than  are  the  English-speaking  inhaoitonts. 


4 


r. 


'•'■'IliiiJ 


They  have  their  o^vn  clubs  and  societies. 
and  there  is  not  so  much  social  intercourse 
between  them  and  the  English-speaking 
population  as  might  be  expected.  The 
French  lack  push  and  enterprise.  They 
are  satisfied  with  the  existing  state  of 
things.  'Ihey  live  and  pi'ay  and  work  and 
worship  in  the  same  way  that  their  fore- 
fathers did  a  hundred  years  ago.  The  pro- 
gressive minority  are  heavily  handicapped 
by  these  lethargic  people  At  present  the 
nl)sorbing  topic  of  conversation  liere  is 
commercial  union  with  the  Unitetl  States. 
Twenty  years  ago  more  than  l;<00  vessels 
entered  the  port  of  QueI.ec  and  departed 
laden  with  what  theCauadiars  hi;d  to  sell. 
Now  not  more  than  ;'()0  ve.ssels  leceive 
cargo  here  annually.  Then  ;J0  wooden 
ships  and  many  sinaliei-  crafts  were  built 
III  the  sliipyartis  of  Quebec.     During  the 

,  last  thiee  years  not  a  keel  has  been  laid 

;  here. 

I  TRADE   IS   DEAD 

I  and  the  mines  are  closed.    The  lumbei-man 


-14 


^i 


*•■  4 


hw*  no  market  for  his  lumber,  tho  farmer 
'  lias  ceaged  to  grow  barley,  potatoes  and 
I  other  products  that  he  fonnerly  mftrketed 
j  in  tho  United  States.    Forty  dollars  a  ton 
I  iluty  on  htarch  made  from  potatoes  pre- 
<  vents   manufacture   and   export   of  that 
I  article.    The  fishennan,  with  #4  a  barrel 
duty  on  mackerel,  can  make  but  a  poor 
living,  even  working  as  he  does,  day  and 
night,   during  the   fishing   sea.son.     The 
French  shrug  their  shoulders,  and  say  that 
they  must  acknowledge  that  times  are  not 
I  &s  good  as  they  U3e<l  to  be,  nor  the  country 
I  as    prosperous.    They  say   they   do   not 
I  know  the  reason,  but  they  think  it  must  be 
I  the  will  of   God.    The   EnglLsh-speaking 
{  people  who  liave  been  students  of  affairs 
I  say  that  the  duty  on   lumber,  fish   and 
otiier  exports  to  the  United  States,  and  the 
i  duty  paid  on  wliat  they  find  necessary  to 
I  buy  in  the  States,  keep  the  people  poor. 
I  Free  trade  is  what  they  want.    Commer- 
!  cial  union  with  the  United  States,  they 
I  .say,  will  bring  back  pros3)erity  and  in- 
crease tho  natioral  wealth.' 

AIouK  a  line  of  SOOO  miles  in  extent,  be- 
tween tne  United  States  and  Canada,  cu.s- 
toni  houses  and  the  officials  connected  with 
,  them  have  to  be  supported  at  a  cost  to  the 
Canadians  of  .*4,000,000.    They  want  this 
done  away  with.    I  .speak  of  the  shipper, 
!  the  farmer,  the   lumberman,  am!  every 
otlier  person  who  has  given  the  matter  a 
thought,  except  some  manufacturers  and 
those  who  are  controlted  by  personal  inter- 
,  cst.s  rather  than  the  pubhc  gocid.     It  is  21 
yeJirs  since  the  United  States  abrogated  the 
j  treaty  of  reciprocity,  and  Canada  has  not 
thriven  since.    AVith  a  territory  of  3,.5(;0,- 
i  000  square  miles— almost  as  large  as  all  of 
I  Europe — the  increase  of  population  in  ten 
j  yeai-s  has  been  only  (iOO.OOO,  or  18  percent. 
I  Their  exports  in  20  years  have  only  in- 
creased from  ?!.57,0()O,()OO  to  *n(),COO,000  in 
value,  while  their  imports  have  increased 
I  from  *73,()0(),()00  to  *108,0()0,000.    In  the 
'  same  length  of  time 

I  THEIR  DEBT  HAS  INCREASED 

t  from  *90,000,000  to  ?;2(m,000,000.  The  debt 
is  now  twice  as  much  per  capita  as  is  the 
deb*,  of  the  United  States.  The  average 
commodities  purchased  by  the  United 
States  from  Canada  is  about  CO  cents  per 
head  of  poi)ulation ,  The  average  per  head 
that  is  purchased  by  the  Canadians  from 
the  United  States  is  nearly  ^!».  It  is  evi- 
dent that  Canada  has  much  more  to  gain 
by  commercial  union  than  has  the  United 
States.  The  above  is  a  very  brief  outline 
of  the  prominent  details  of  the  commercial 
union  question,  that  is  liere  discussed  in 
clubs,  on  'Change  and  in  the  streets.  The 
majority  of  the  newspapers  of  the  Do- 
minion are  in  favor  of  some  reciprocal 
treaty  with  the  United  States,  and  it  is 
said  by  those  who  seem  to  know  that  a 
large  majority  of  the  peoj)le,  should  the 
question  be  j)ut  to  them,  would  vote  for 
any  reasonable  change  in  the  present  taritT 
of   (luti.<»s.    The   existing  government  is, 


.SS  jT  >.  a 

*->  a*"  u 


^5  3 


1 


>#.  .  .'^ 

►  >  cS 

o  o  S 


/  >.  1;  c  5. 

^   3   '^  ♦J 

—  5  2  ~  — 
♦a  a-  *  2  # 

r^s  a-t;^  a, 
o  -r   ,'2  •? 

o  r  ^  S  a 


a  — 
w  s 

.3  a 
—  t,  as 

^.:;- 

=  •-  c 
i  'V  a 


45 


d\\ 


lOGOFTHEUCHTCHAMPlAIN. 


KNOX'S    LETTER. 

tiimblng    Ofcr    Qaebec   in    Hot   fVeather— 
Qaaint  Sceoas  and  t'a»toms. 

It  is  too  hot  to-day  to  wrire  out  in  the 
yacht  as  she  lies  at  anchor  in  Quebec  har- 
bor; so  I  am  writing  this  in  a  little  wine 
shopdown  under  the  shadow  of  the  citadel. 
There  are  no  ftrst-class  hotels  in  this  city, 
and  there  are  no  restaurants,  except  a  few 
ot  the  spotted  table-cloth  and  red-napkin 
kind,  where  the  waiter,  in  answering 
your  call,  leans  over  you  so  closely  that 
you  can  taste  two  kinds  of  soup  in  his 
breath,  and  says,  "  Well  ?" 

I  find  no  place  where  I  can  write  with 
comfort  except  in  the  Garrison  Club,  and 
that  is  too  for  up  town,  and  too  much  of  a 
climb  on  a  hot  day  hke  this.  We  have 
been  sleeping  on  board  the  boat  since  we 
came  to  tnis  city,  and  taking  most  of  our 
meals  on  shore.  The  food  furnished  here 
at  hotels  and  restauiants  is  very  bad,  and  j 
the  cooking  is  worse  than  anything  I  ever 
sufiTcred  from  in  a  city  of  this  size*,  so  I 
come  to  this  little  wine  shop,  where  a  fat 
Frenchwoman  who  keeps  it  gives  me  a 
bowl  of  bread  and  milk,  and  the  use  of  the 
little  room  off  the  shop,  for  10  cents.  The 
room  is  inhabited  by  nies  and  the  smell  of 
dried  codfish,  but  the  smell  bemg  a  steady 
one,  I  get  used  to  it,  and,  as  the  room  is 
comparatively  cool  and  I  am  not  disturbed, 
I  like  it.  Another  advantage  is  that  when 
I  have  set  a  trap  to  catch  an  idea,  and 
while  chewing  the  end  of  my  pencil  as  1 
wait  for  the  idea  to  be  caught,  I  can  cast 
my  eyes  around  the  wall  and  feast  them  on 
art.    There  are  severe  I  chroraatc  pictures 


46 


f 


•  k 


I 


ot  saints.  Bt.  Patrick,  dressed  in  green, 
yellow  and  blue,  in  front  of  a  background 
of  Icruon-colorud  sky,  a  staff  in  his  hand, 
and  his  right  foot  on  a  pile  of  gilt  snakes: 
and  there  is  a  pui-ple-haired  St.  Joseph,  and 
8t.  Peter  aeems  to  have  the  small-poz:  but 
perhaps  it  is  only  the  effects  of  flies.  Now 
these  saints  were  all  good  and  saintly  men 
when  they  were  mortals,  and  they  are 
worthy  ot  all  honor,  therefore  I  think  it  a 
shame  that  they  should  be  foreshortened 
into  deformed  freaks  and  clothed  in  such 
gaudy  garments.  If  poor  tit.  Lawrence 
could  only  see  the  ridiculous  picture  of 
himself,  copies  of  which  I  have  seen  in  a 
hundred  places  in  Canada,  with  its  swol- 
len jaw  and  a  nose  that  would  rai.se  the 
temperature  in  a  room  as  big  as  a  skating 
rink,  he  would  be  very  sorry  that  he  ever 
had  anything  to  do  with  Canada,  even  if 
its  principal  river  was  named  in  his  honor. 

A  QUAINT  TAVERN. 

Tradition  says  that  this  little  wine  shop  is 
almost  as  old  as  Quebec.  I  do  not  know 
the  name  of  the  street  on  which  it  is  situ- 
ated, and  I  am  too  lazy  to  go  out  and  ask ; 
but  no  doubt  it  is  a  name  that,  before  the 
street  got  it,  was  used  by  some  saint.  It  is 
just  around  the  comer  from  Break-neck 
stairs,  in  Little  Champlain  street,  and  it 
was  past  its  door  that  Arnold  went  to  his 
death  on  that  night  of  storm  and  snow  and 
blood,  many  years  ago.  I  try  to  extract 
some  legends  or  traditions  of  the  place 
from  the  fat  proprietress,  and  I  find  her  a 
rich  mine  of  ignorance.  She  knows  noth- 
ing whatever  about  the  history  of  the 
house ;  she  has  rented  it  during  the  last  10 
years,  and  trade  is  very,  very  bad ;  that  is 
all  she  knows,  but  she  is  quite  good-natured, 
and  tries  to  please.  By  putting  leading 
questions  to  ner,  I  would  guai-antee  to 
prove  anything,  no  matter  how  preposter- 
ous. You  ask  ner  if  this  is  not  the  scene  of 
such  and  such  an  historic  incident,  or  the 
spot  on  which  Champlain  held  13  hostile 
Indians  at  bay  until  not  an  Indian  was  left 
to  bay  at  him,  and  she  smiles  a  smile  of 
acquiescence  that  pushes  her  ears  back 
imtil  they  neai'ly  meet,  and  says,  "Oui, 
monsieur."  She  says,  "  Oui,  monsieur"  to 
every  miestion,  and  I  truly  believe  that 
should  I  ask  her  if  this  was  theihotise  that 
Jack  buUt,  or  the  spot  where  the  ark  rested 
after  the  flood,  she  would  say  "Oui,  mon- 
sieur," so  I  have  to  fall  back  on  my  imagina- 
tion. Itis  always  well  to  have  an  imagina- 
tion wiwh  you  when  you  are  traveling.  You 
may  oee(f  it  and  have  to  use  it  righx  along. 
I  have  uaed  mine  pretty  freely  of  late;  for 
instance,  when  tne  wind  blew  lu!  the 
yacht  leaned  over  and  stuck  her  '  .1  "nder 
the  water,  and  the  ink  upset,  and  u  cun  of 
lard  ^ot  mixed  with  my  duck  trousers  and 
smoking  tobacco,  and  the  smoke  from  the 
stove  l«iked  into  the  cabin,  then  I  used  it 
in  striving  to  imagine  that  I  was  enjoying 
mjrself  and  t^t  I  liked  yachting.  I  think 
that  in  some  of  these  efforts  my  im- 
agination has  been  sprained,  for  it  some- 


47 


J  if 


I  I 


times  iTfiisi's  to  woik.  I  tried  it  ycstcrdny 
on  sonic  ricii  piuldin)^  fooki'd  on  lioard  hy 
niysc'll'.  I  wuntcd  to  inmniiii!  timf  it  wuh 
fit  lor  human  t'lxxl,  l>ut  my  imnuiiiation 
rofusfd  to  uid  me,  except  wit ii  ttie  sn,t;j;«'s- 
tioii  that  when  linhtinK  the  fire  with  kero- 
sene I  might  have  "sloshed"  aroimd  more 
than  was  necessary. 
It  my  imaKinntion  wotdd  only  work  to- 
j  day,  how  I  <'ould  jH'ople  fliis  little  tavern 
I  with  those  who  have  passed  over  its  thresh- 
I  C)ld  in  the  olden  time.  Nelson  may  have 
dropped  inhere  hel'orc  li^' dreamed oi  hein,':; 
an  a(hniral,  and  Tom  Mooi-e  may  have 
drimk  the  juiee  of  (.fraiKS  that  were  gath- 
'  ered  in  the  valleys  of  sunny  France,  and 
sung  songs  and  written  verses  in  this  little 
room,  and  doubtless  many  a  gallant  soMier 
of  Franco  and  many  u  niariniT  of  Kngland 
has  made  these  eoljwehbed  walls  echo  with 
jest  and  song.  Hut  the  glory  of  those  days 
has  departed,  and  few  there  lie  who  jiat- 
ronize  the  i)lace  now,  except  the  hai'itants 
who  bring  garden-stuff  to  market,  and  the 
sailors  from  the  ships  intlie  stream  beyond. 
Even  the  card  in  the  window  announcing 
that  American  whisky,  at  10  cents  a  glass 
and  .')  cents  a  half-glass,  is  a  specialty,  fails 
to  attract  customers. 

PRECIPITOUS  STREET.S. 

I  walked  through  the  city— well,  it  was  not 
a  walk  exactly.  I  climbed  over  a  part  of  it 
this  morning.  8ome  of  the  streets,  like 
Mountain  street,  are  so  steep  that  I  have  to 
stop  and  rest  several  times  beffire  I  I'each 
the  sunnnit.  If,  however,  I  do  not  wish  to 
climb,  I  can,  for  three  cents,  bo  shot  ui>  in 
an  elevator  from  the  lower  to  the  upper 
town.     When  I  was  driving  down  one  of 


\i 


\ 


48 


I 


* 


these  streeUi  iu  a  wagon  a  bundle  fell  nut 
of  the  vehicle.  It  wont  over  the  horse's 
head  and  reached  the  fp'ound  six  feet  in 
front  of  him.  As  it  may  strain  you  to  be- 
lieve this,  I  would  jiot  mention  it  if  I  was 
not  80  anxious  to  give  you  a  true  idea  of 
the  steepness  of  the  streets. 

I  meet  nritistH  wearing  three-cornered 
hats  and  black  robes,  everywhere;  and  am 
never  out  of  sight  of  churches  and  of  prop- 
erty that  belongs  to  the  Roman  f.'atliolic 
church.  Hero  a  party  of  sailoi-s  from  the 
French  frigate  in  tne  harbor,  there  ^a 
farmer  and  his  wife  iu  a  (jueer,  lieovy  two- 
wheeled  cart,  next,  a  soldier  from  the  cita- 
del, with  gay  uniform  and  jaunty  gait, 
laborers  in  blue  blouses,  rough  und  weatuer- 
beaten  lumbermen  down  from  the  Sague- 
nay  with  rafts  of  logs;  clerks  and  business 
men,  drassed  in  clotlies  of  English  cut,  and 
many  nuns  and  Sisters  of  Charity.  These 
are  the  people  I  see  in  the  streets  of  (Que- 
bec, but  you  must  not  think  that  I  am 
describing  a  hurrying  throng.  Canadians 
neither  hurry  nor  throng.  I  do  not  meet 
more  than  three  or  four  people  on  a  block, 
and  they  do  not  hurry  along,  for  there  is 
not  enough  business  to  go  around,  and 
they  can  take  time  to  do  the  little  that 
that  there  is. 

Quebec  is  asleep,  and  the  merchant,  as 
he  stands  at  his  uoor  waiting  for  a  cus- 
tomer, says  she  will  not  awake  until  some 
day  the  booming  ciumon  on  the  fortifica- 
tions above  annouiu  that  the  Stai-s  and 
Stripes  float  over  the  citadel,  and  the  Yun- 


/ 


49 


1,1- 


V  ■•^v,f^m-mg!if>t$£atkis!tia.-^:i!'>»Aiijf^^/iMij».  ^iSMX^Tm:- 


li 


l£ 


^\\mi 

kee  capitalist  comes  to  do  7elop  ber  momi- 
facturiJQ)^  and  ship-building  interests. 

The  chief  topic  of  the  day  here  is  com- 
mercial union  with  the  United  States  It 
13  discussed  hourly.  The  English-speaking 
population  want  it.  The  Frencn-Cana- 
dians  are  living  in  the  last  century,  and  do 
not  want  anything;  or,  rather,  they  do  not 
know  that  they  need  or  want  anything. 
They  are  imder  the  domlnioo  of  their 
church,  and  tho  church  does  not  desire 
commercial  union,  fearing  that  that  might 
lead  to  annexation,  and  under  the  Govern- 
ment of  the  United  States  tbo  church  could 
not  expect  such  privileges  as  it  enjoys 
under  tne  laws  of  Canada,  I  am  not  yet 
prepared  to  write  on  this  subject,  not  until 
I  learn  more  of  the  views  of  the  people 
elsewhere. 

ANTICIPATING  THE  BARBER. 

There  is  a  little  house  here  On  one  of  the 
principal  streets,  and  in  this  houi3  on  the 
last  day  of  the  year  1775  was  laid  the  body 
of  Gen.  Montgomery.  It  is  one  of  the 
show  places  of  the  t-ity.  Before  a  stranger 
has  been  10  minuctes'in  Quebec  some  one 
will  ask  him:  "  Have  you  seen  tiie  old 
house  in  which  the  body  of  Gen.  Mont- 

§omery  lay?"  And  he  cannot  walk  a 
lock  without  meetin",  a  man  or  boy  who 
•vill  suggest  that  for  19  cents  he  will  guide 
him  to  the  "  maison  oxi  le  corps  du  Gen. 
Montjromery  fut  depose.'  As  I  threw  ray- 
self  back  in'a  bai'ber's  chair  this  morning 
I  saw  that  the  barber  was  loaded  for 
tourists,  so  I  anticipated  him.  Using  my 
suave  traveling  voice,  I  said :  "I  want  to 
be  shaved  inside  six  minutes,  and,  as  I  do 
not  care  to  converse  with  lath<°r  ia  my 
mouth  and  a  razor  traveling  along  theout- 


e 


:^ 


no 


side  of  my  windpii^e,  I'd  like  that  we  have 
our  cuiiversatioii  out  before  you  bej^in.  To 
start  with,  I  will  say  that  I  am  from  the 
United  States,  I  have  visite<l  the  citadel,  I 
have  seen  the  hous<>  in  which  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery's Ixxly  lay,  and  I  promised  my  luicie 
on  his  dying  bed  never  to  discuss  either 
commercial  union  or  annexation.  low 
Hre  vour  fractured  English  at  me."'  He 
said:  "  Merci,  monsieur,  I  uozzing  more 
ha.s  to  remarii."  and  he  gave  me  a  fair  10- 
ceut  shave  without  sayl'ig  another  word. 

AN  OLD    ADVEIITISEMENT. 

Most  of  tlio  l,)uel)ec  ncwspa])ors  are  pul)- 
lished  in  French.  There  is  only  one  paper 
of  any  consequence  published  in  English. 
It  is  called  the  Mnnumj  <'hr<>)iiclt\  is  pub- 
lished claily,  is  an  ext-ellent  ]>aper,  and, 
under  very  able  e<lit()rial  and  business 
ni'inagement,  is  prosiHM'ous.  It  is  the 
oldest  newspaper  ni  Canada.  It  was  es- 
tablishtnl  in  lit>4,  and  was  then  called  the 
Gi.zrffc.  Interesting  to  Americans  should 
be  the  fact  that  the  first  coi)y  of  tlu'  (Ui- 
zi'ftf  was  jirinted  by  Hen.iamin  Franklin, 
who  then  o.vned  a  printing  j)ress  in  t,)ue- 
boc.  I  saw  what  is  claimed  to  be  one  of 
those  first  coi)it!s.  It  is  a  very  small  affair, 
only  eight  short  columns.  It  begins  with 
an  elal«)r:ite  jirosjieitus,  in  which  the 
usual  florid  pi'oinises  are  nuvde  by  the 
editor  and  ))ro[)r'etor.  H(>  says  he  will  Ik> 
impartial  and  just  in  ei'iticising  acts  of 
puEdic  men,  and  will  spare  no  ex|)ense  in 
obtaining  all  the  news,  etc.  it  reads  vei\y 
much  like  a  |)rospectus  of  to-day.  I  note 
that  he  omitted  only  one  thing:  he  neg- 
lected to  say,  '•  We  have  come  to  sta^','' 
but  the  pajxT  Mas  ;stayed  for  a  century  and 
a  quiirter,  nevertheless.  This  fii>it  copy 
coutaiiic<l  only  one  advertisement.  It  an- 
nounces ••  An  a.ssortment  of  goods,  just 
imported  from  London,  and  to  be  sold  at 
the  lowest  i)i'ice,  by  .John  Haird.  in  the 
upi)cr  part  of  Hciwy  Morin's  house,  at  the 
entr\-  of  tiie  Cnlde  Sac."' 

The  assoi'tment  covers  a  variet3'  of  arti- 
cles, from  brass  candlesticks  to  gun  wads. 
When  John  Bau'd  handeil  m  that  adver- 
tisement to  the  editor,  jiroprietor.  business 
manager,  local  reporter  and  iirinter  of  the 
Gir.i'ltr,  120  years  ago,  and  tried  to  get 
s|K'cial  i)osition  top  of  colunm,  and  St  j)er 
cent,  olf  card  rates  for  cash,  he  little 
thought  that  |H'ople  of  the  foui-fh  and  fifth 
generation  after  would  read  it  i  a  news- 
papei-  containing  more  than  a  tlioustnid 
advertisements  a  day.  Now,  if  Mi-.  Uaircl 
had  painted  an  announcement  of  his 
"goocls,  just  impoi'ted  from  London"  on  a 
fence  or  on  a  rock,  the  i'eni'e  would  have 
U'cn  burned  ui)  long  since,  anil  a  jail  or  a 
church  would  have  been  Imilt  on  the  rock. 

The  lU'  val,  therefore,  is.  advertise  in 
news|>a|HiS,  for,  while  one  cojiv  of  vour 
ad.  may  be  useil  to  wrap  around  a  picnic 
sandwich,  another  may  serve  to  carry 
your  name  and  fame  thundering  down  the 

ages. 

U  ith  this  moral  I  close,  for  the  crew  has 
.just  called  for  me.  He  stiys  the  wind  is 
fair,  and  in  an  hour  we  sail  for  the 
Sagueuay. 


&I 


4\ 


in 


t 


A  RACING  BASIN. 


Xnox  and  Hurray  Tempt  '.he  Dan- 
gers ot  a  Stone  Walled  Vond. 


Colamlttra    of  a    Nl(rbt-Tlir     ImDoniftfir; 

Schooner— Save  1   b?   a  How!«prlt  — 

Another  r«9ril— IVild  Senrch 

Tor  n  lledse. 


Os  EoARP  Yacht  C'hamilain,  ) 
Off  Qoeeeo.  J 


Kni>x'it  Letter* 

These  St.  Lawrence  wotera  are  v<)ry 
ro»igh  Bometlnaes.  The  tide  comes  up  at 
the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour.  The  rise 
and  fal'  at  neap  tide  is  some  fourteen  feet, 
■while  the  sprinj?  tides,  with  a  heavy  east 
■wind,  rise  as  high  as  twenty  feet  at  the 
CHy  of  Quebec. 

We  aeldoin  picture  a  river  as  anvthing 
but  a  smoothly  flowini?  current,  except  when 
there  are  rapids  for  the  waters  to  rush  aail 
foam  and  tumble  down.  It.  is  very  differ- 
ent on  a  great  river  like  the  St,  Laurence. 
V^  hen  the  wind  meets  the  tide  or  tlie  strong 
cunent  of  the  river's  downward  flow,  then 
great  waves  are  farmed,  whitecappe  1, 
short,  snappy,  and  dangerous  to  small 
crafts:  The  winds  and  the  tides  have  it 
out  with  each  other,  regardless  of  the 
yaclrtsman'a  comfort  or  the  Marqui^i  of 
Queeosberry  rules.  Seething,  anarry  wf  ters 
»nd  boisterouG  winds  wrestle  and  pufT  and 
fiercely  contend  until  the  winds  get  blown 
and  retire. 

The  water  of  the  St.  Lawrence  (s  of  a 
greenish  tiuKe,  and  when  riled  looks  like  the 


chopping  sea  In  the  English  channel.  My 
acquaintance .  with  this  river,  extenrtlns 
over  many  years,  was  made  through  a  map 
when  I  was  a  bov.  The  St.  Lawrence, 
when  I  fiMt  knew  it,  was  a  blue  stream, 
glazed  on  the  surface  with  some  kind  of 
shiny  varnish  that  was  cracked  and  pe:Ied 
off  In  spoti,  and  there  wm  a  ragged  nail- 
hole  situated,  as  well  as  I  can  remember, 
down  about  the  mouth  of  the  Soguenay, 
and  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the 
shore.  It  was  a  stream  as  tranquil  and 
blue  as  a  pan  of  akim  milk  on  a  pantry 
shelf,  and,  except  an  occasional  parallel  of 
latitude  and  a  few  meridians,  tt  had  no 
ubstmokiona  in  its  course  to  the  jivJit. 

I  found  the  river  quite  different  when  I 
I.  c  its  personal  acquaintance.  This  has, 
more  than  anything  else,iaught  tae  not  to 
put  faith  In  r'  --  I  know  that  railroad 
maps  are  n  to  deceive,  but  I  did  not 
think  that  th.^  Euglish  N'ational  Board  o£ 
Education  would  willinsly  deceive,  with  a 
bogU9,  chromo  river,  a  small  imlettered 
boy  whose  father  paid  them  half  a  crown  a 
week  to  jam  his  oldest  child  full  of  authen- 
tic geographical  lore  and  other  solid  knowlr 
edge. 

I  was  surprfsed  at  the  roughness  of  the 
water,  but  a  greater  surprise  awaited  me. 
We  were 

AtMOST  WBECKElJ  IN  A  BASIN. 

The  authorities  kindly  allowed  us  to 
anchor  the  Champlain  in  the  Basin  Louise, 
at  Quebec.  This  is  a  dock  inclosed  by 
high,  granite  walla  or  embankments  that 
t\ae  thirty  foot  aI)ove  low  water.  It  is  .. 
great  square^  about  cbroo  hundred  yards 
on  each  side,  and  with  only  one  small 
cpeuing  Outward  to  the  river.  Since  our 
arrival,  we  have  slept  on  board,  and  have 
allowed  our  crew  to  stay  on  shore  at  night, 
and  much  more  pleasant  we  have  found  it 
to  be  rocked  to  sleep  by  the  gentle  swell  of 
the  water  than  to  pass  the  night  in  the 
finest  room  in  the  city. 

Yesterday  mornin?,  at  .aliout  four 
o'clock,  I  waa  asleep  and  absorbed  in  a 
dream.  In  my  dream  I  waa  mounted  on  a 
nightmare  of  the  mustang  race.  I  thou^rht 
I  was  once  more  a  tenderfoot  on  the  plains, 
and  the  mustang  waa  bucking,  and  I  was 
Jolting  up  and  down  on  hia  back  i^ntll  I 
could  feel  the  fifty  doUara'  worth  of  gold 
filling  loosen  and  jingle  in  my  teetli..  The 
brute,  with  that  tnconslslency  of  aninab 
and  things  in  k  dream,  sudderly  changed 
to  a  boat  that  also  buckid,  threw  me  on  a 


[ns 
i»p 
ice, 
pitn, 
lot 

.:lcd 
ttftjl- 

ibef. 
mayi 
I  the 
L  ftad 
iTitry 
lei  of 
ad  no 

fhenl 

.  not  to 
Allro&d 
aid  not 
loard  ot 
,  •with  ft 
iletterad 
crown  & 
I  autben- 
i  knowlr 

isa  of  th« 
jklted  me. 

3IN. 

red  US  to 
lialiouUc, 

closed   by 
aenta  that 

It  U  '• 
Ited  jaxi* 

ouo  BtnaU 

Since  our 
1,  ftnd  have 
:e  at  night, 
,vo  found  it 
■tie  Bweiiof 
[ght  in  the 

l^bout    foat 
orbed   in  * 
i^nted  on  a 
I  thousht 
itbe  plains. 
,  and  I  "*» 
ijack  ^»*^^  '■ 
trtb  of  eo\A 
T  teeth..  The 
of  anlniU 
r\y  changed 
Lew  me  on  • 


ii 


r 


i  i 


"Belay,  thero,  bolayl"  caino  tho  order. 

I  knew  bow  to  belay,  but  I  conid  no 
more  belay  that  rope  than  I  could  have 
stopped  Niagara  in  its  fall;  and.  besides, 
my  nightshirt  was  moat  of  it  wrapped 
uround  my  nock,  with  tho  end  of  it  slap- 
ping my  face,  and  thua  interfering  with 
my  usefulness.  I  kept  layiui;;  cable  down 
in  that  water  at  a  speed  that  only  Cyriia 
W.  Field  could  equal,  and  we  would  soon 
bave  been  banging  up  against  tho  side  of 
the  dock  t*'  a  hitch  in  tho  cable  had  not 
caught  on  tho  bowsprit  bits.  Tho  schooner 
was  now  within  iifteon  foot  of  us  and 
drifting  on.  Ilor  rail  was  ton  fojt  above 
our  dock,  and  she  loaked  as  big  as  a  man- 
of-war.  Her  crew,  which  consisted  of 
three  young  men,  woro  rushing  up  and 
down  her  dock,  jumping  ovor  barrels  and 
liatchways,  just  like  wild  animals  In  a 
cage,  only  that  wild  animalo  so  placsd  do 
not  express  their  feelings  in  profane  Cana- 
dian French. 

"Cut  that  rope;  cut  it  quick!"  carae  the 
order  to  me  through  tho  roar  of  the  storm 
and  the  folds  of  the  night-shirt  around  my 
ears.     I  picked  up  the  cook's  glitterin;; 
liread  knife  from  the  top  of  the  cold,  cold 
■tove,  and  with  one  whack  severed  the 
rope,     Something  came   whizzing    down 
with  a  run  and  hit  ma  on  the  boad.    It 
hurt,'  but  I  dill  not  wait  to  find  out  whuthor/ 
it  was  a  mast  or  only  a  block.      I  had  cut 
the  wrong  rope.    Tlie   New  Zealand  was 
now  within  two  feet  of  our  bowsprit  and 
still  bearing  slowly  down  on  us.     Murray 
was  at  the  bow  hauling  on  a  rope  in  an  in- 
sane effort,  as  it  seemed  to  me,  to  pull  up 
the  bottom  of  tho  St.  Lawrence  river, 

WA3  PERFECTLY  CAliM 

At  first,  and  I  remember  wondering  if  the 
yacht  would  ever  be  raised;  if  I  would  bo 
found  in  •  her  or  in  the  mud  at  the  bottom 
of  tho  basin,  and  I  thought  of  how  a  "ra- 
nains"  would  look,  hanging  on  the  end  of 
H  graj)pling  iron,  dreasej  in  a  rortray  night- 
shirt with  two  blue  anchors  embroidered 
on  the  collar.    Then  I  bocamo  excited;  I 
realized  that  T  should  make  an  effort  for 
life,  if  for  no  other  reason  than  t)  finish 
this  series  of  letters.    Justice  to  my  many 
readers  demanded   that  J  should  struggle 
to  save  my  young  life.     I  booama  nnra  ex- 
cited ai   r  lhou,'lit  of  yon  stopping  your 
paper   because    ray    weekly    letters    were 
■topped  by  tlio  ruthless  hand  of  tha  Storrt 
Kin;,'  and  a  blamed  old  schooner  loaded  to 


I 


Mi 


I 


^'1 


the  muzzle  with  sand.  So,  I  threw  s^ide 
my  modesty,  let  out  n  rocf  ia  my  fluttering 
garment,  and<Jimbad  out  to  the  end  of  the 
bowsprit. 

The  gentle  and  urbane  reader  who  ia  not 
a  tightrope  walker,  and  who  wishes  to  un- 
derstand  the  full  scopo  of  this  dariug  foat 
will  pleoae  procure  a  pole,  hang  it  out  of  a 
second  story  window  and  then  run  out  to 
the  end  of  it,  wbi?e  some  one  wigijloa  it 
violently  from  the  inside,  and  the 
wind  howla  and  blows  hii  eara 
full  of  water.  Then  he  can  retire 
to  his  closet,  shut  the  door,  lie  down  on  « 
rane  bottomed  lounge  and  imagine  my 
feelings  aa  I  ran  out  on  that  bowsprit  It 
is  twenty  feet  long,  and  to  me  seemed  a 
thousand.  I  reached  out  ag'ainst  the 
Bchooner'e  side,  with  the  idiotic  intention 
of  pushing  her  oR,  Just  then  a  wave  lif  to  i 
ber;  our  bowsprit  crashed  through  her  rot- 
ten sides  a  distance  of  two  feet,  and  stuck. 
The  three  New  Zealandera  could  do  noth- 
ing but  talk,  and  we  talked  back  at  thenif 
and  the  winds  seemed  to  laugh  and  ahriak 
with  delight  at  our  troubles,  vnd  thd  aoise 
of  the  elements  drowned  our  voices, 
while  wa  jabbed  boathooks  into  the 
side  of  the  old  hulk.  Wo  did 
not  get  loose  until  four  men  came  off 
from  she:  e  and  cut  us  ai)artwith  an  ax. 
Then  a  tng  came  and  hauled  the  schooner 
away.  We  were  feeling  that  the  danger 
was  over,  and  I  was  about  to  retire  and  take 
an  arnica  bath,  and  put  on  a  suit  of  stick- 
ing plaster,  when  we  discovered  that  we 
were  going  along  ia  the  wake  of  the 
•cbooner.  Her  anchor  had  caught  in  our 
cable.  More  "ahoys"  from  Murray  aud' 
solos  oa  the  foghorn  by  myself;  the  tui; 
hove  to,  the  tangle  was  untangled  some- 
how, and  once  more  we  were  free.  As  wo 
were  congratulating  each  other  on  this  sec- 
ond escape,  a  third  and  a  greater  dang;er 
threatened  us.     Tlio  Now.  Zealand 


/ 


;   K^' 


..    .\\^ 


^■\. 


draeijed  our  anchor  some  distaaca  from  ita 
restiucplace;  when  she  let  it  ?o  there  was 
a  great  slack  in  our  three  hundred  feet  of 
cable,  and  before  that  was  taken  uii  the 
wind  drove  ui  down  on  the  yacht 
Ripple.  As  we  came  sweepias 
down  on  her  bow,  Morray  began 
hauling  on  onr  anchor  cable,  and 
shouted  to  me  to  "throw  over  the  kedgOi" 
I  ran  in  the  direction  he  pointed.  I 
didn't  Know  what  a  kedge  was,  but  I  saw 
that  it  was  no  time  for  asking  questions. 
The  order  was  to  throw  out  a  kedgo.  It 
had  to  be  done  quickly,  and  I  was  going  to 
do  it,  too.  I  knew  it  was  better  ninety- 
nine  innocent  articles  should  be  sacrificed 
than  that  one  kedge  should  not  ba  Hang 
into  the  surging  tide,  so  I  fired  overboanl 
everything  of  weighty  iron  or  tin  or  brsM 
that  I  could  see,  hoping  that  among  them 
might  be  a  kedge.  When  about  to  throw 
the  stovepipe  astern— how  was  I  to  know 
that  "kedge"  was  not  the  nautical  name 
:  -  for  stovepipe?— I  was  stopped  by  the  bow- 
sprit of  the  other  yacht  coming  (sweeping 
through  our  rigging,  and  with  the  shock 
of  the  two  yachts  coming  together.  Then 
I  realized,  as  I  was  thrown  backwards  and 
fell  on  a  can  of  kerosene  oil,  that  there  was 
no  use  of  wasting  any  more  of  our  valuable 
portable  property.  Two  frightened  young 
men,  an  scantily  clothed  as  I  was,  poured 
up  out  of  the  cabin  of  the  Ripple.  There 
was  a  tableau  that  would  be  a  fortune  to 
the  great  marine  painter  that  would  put  1( 
on  canvas. 

There  was  more  pulling;  t)t  ropes  And 
poking  of  boathooks,  and  once  again  we 
were  safely  anchbred,  and  Mut 


/i  /- 


/, 


S^O^.v 


I A 


r 


m 


.-ssSWSfR" 


it 
i 

>n 
td 
I." 

I 
»w 
as< 

It 
(to 
»ty- 
oed 
nns 
Mod 

hem 

btow 

cnovr 

aanie 

bow- 

eptoS 

shock 
Then 

Is  Aad 

rawaa 

Auabla 
young 
pouted 
There 
lune  to 
put  It 

And 
Lain  we 


went  clown  into  the  cabin  and  patched  up 
ench  other's  bruises  and  abrasions. 

"Quite  a  little  blow,  old  boy,  wasn't' it?" 
said  Murray. 

"Yes;  rather  braozy  and  interesting, 
and  quite  creditable  for  a  granite-walled 
basin." 

"It  will  be  worse  than  that  when  we  get 
down  below  the  Sasfuenay." 

"Well,  I  think  so,  if  one  can  bo  nearly 
wrecked  three  times  before  breakfast  in  a 
land-locked,  rock-protected  (Quebec  dock. 
I  expect,  when  wo  get  further  down  the 
river,  we  shall  get  all  the  exorcise  our  sys- 
tems need  in  dodging  lighthouses,  keeping 
tugs  from  running  away  with  us  and  pi'e- 
venting  schooners  climbing  over  us." 

Murray  says  that  when  a  man  goes 
yachtint;  he  muxt  expect  such  little  inci- 
dents. If  he  calls  our  experience  a  little 
incident,  I  wonder  if  ha  wouldn't  call  a  hur- 
ricane, a  surf  beaten  lea  shore  and  de^th  a 
slight  inconvenience. 

There  is  one  thing  regarding  which  I 
have  made  up  my  mind.  As  long  as  this 
trip  lasts  I  am  going  to  sleep  with  my 
trowsers  on.  Another  thia^,  we,  the  peo- 
ple of  the  United  States,  don't  want  any 
annexation  of  Canada.  Do  we  want  to  be 
kept  awake  at  night  governing  a  country 
where  a  stranger  is  banged  around  on  an 
empty  stomach,  before  daybreak,  by  the 

elements  and  an  old  sand  azowl 

«  »  «  »  » 

I  am  getting  madder  and  madder  every 
minute.  My  mind  is  made  up.  The 
United  States  positively  doaa  not  want  to 
annex  Canada.  I  have  just  found  out  that 
my  gun  case  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  Basin 
Louise.  It  was  a  heavy,  tia-co\'Brod  affair, 
and  I  must  have  mistaken  it  for  a  kedge 
yesterday  morning.  What  U  a  koiigo,  any- 
how? 

-*• ll 

1./ 


t 


[LADELPIIIA  PKESS.fl 
— , -^- ^^ 


ON  THE  CHAMPLAIN. 


KNOX'S     ADVENTURES. 

Tvyiiig    In    Cook  a  >l«'iil  In  a  Storiu- 
I'oK-A  La/.y  Holi-l  Clerk. 


■Ileiivy 


Out  from  the  Larbor  of  Quebec  iuto    the 

niiadle  of  the  grout  river,  sailed  the  Cham- 

pluiii  yesterdoj'  moruiiiK.      It  was  our  inten- 
tion to  reach  Tndousao,  at  the  mouth  of  the 

Sapnouay,  lu  ouo  days'  run  (145  miles  from 

Quebec)  if  the  winds  would  favor  U9.    It  was 

a  beautiful  morniug.      As  the  first  beams  of 

the  risine:  sun  planond  on  the  ripplina;  water, 

tha  river— ns  seen  from  tho  heights  of  Quebec 

— l()oi:od    likoa  grent  serpent  whoso  scales 

were      ploamiuc.    .shields       of      buruihsed 

silver.      Tlio      Xtdn     was      with      us,      but 

the      bnezo      was      light      as      we     sailed 

down    tho   rivei    past    the   Falls    of    Mout- 

(noreucv,  a  shoot  of  water  that  thuodoi 

down  into  tho  St.  Lawruuco,  over  a  clilF  tw 

hundred  I'eot  high.     We   cop.,lod    along'^e 

wooded  imargiu    of    tho    Isle    Orleans      for 

twenty  miles.    Here,  the  river  wideuod    out 

to  a  breadth  of  five  or  six  miles.     Tho   wind 

•lied  out  to  a  mere  breath,    and    wo    floated 

with  tho  tide  at  the  rate  of  about  four  knots 

au  houi'. 

Cooking:  In  a  i^qtiall. 
Dinner  time  was  approaching;   and,   as   I 

am  caterer  for  tl^e  boat,  1  had  just  begun 

locate,    aud    had    Rot    the    stove   hot   and 
(^"^    N;^^^;,    covered  witii  pots,   pans  and  ski 
■^J!i:^A»^"N    *^®  helmsman  called  out    'There 
;^"iV  ' ..  ^coming!    Down  with  the  mainsail l/  We'll 
-  ■  Tf'^^^havo  to  run  her   before    it    with^a--do;ible- 
-    reefed  foresail.     Gfvo  the  tender  more  cable, 
astern,  there!     Below   therel/^Cook,    ahoy! 
3'ttko  a  reef  in  your  blooming  stovepipe  or   it 
will  be  at  the  bottom  of  the  river  iu  a    holy 
minute."    ■ — ^r"^ — =-*'—'' 

^'' You  should  undor.'^tand  that  when  the  stove 
is  on  duty  aud  not  acting  as  a  seat  for  the 
crew,  the  pipe  projects  through  the  roof  of 
tho  port  cabin;  at  other  times  it  is  lashed  to 
the  roof  where  it  is  quite  handy  to  knock  j^, 
against  aud  spill  soot  ou  tho  carpet.  I'S^ 
looked  out  and  saw,  about  four  miles  astern,  J^^ 
a  bank  of  mist  or  rain  coining  leisurely  down 
the  river.  I  supposed  that  it  would  take 
about  half  an  hour  to  reach  us,  but  before  I 
could  lower  tho  flying  jib  of  mv  stove  it  was 
upon  us.  and  away  we  went  plunging  down 
the  river  like  a  straw,  bat  crossing  lots  on  a 
windy  day.  The  yacht  careened  slightly, 
and  the  potatoes  from  the  windward  side  ot 
^  the  stove  mingled  with  the  breakfast  bacon 
oil  the  lee,  while  the  rice  joined  with  the 
beans.  Another  lurch  of  the  boat  gave  a 
coDFee  flavor  to  everything  in  sight.  There 
was  trampling  of  feet  overhead,  beating  of 
rain,  whistling  of  wind  through  rig- 
:.'ing,  creaking  of  blocks  and  hoops  as 
sail  came  down,  and  hoarse    orders  from  the 

58 


iiiuii  nt  iho  belin.  Why  do  manners,  who  or- 
(liimrily  aro  Roiitlo  voiced  nieu,  issue  orders 
Ironi  (iwoy  dowu  in  the  back  of  tboir  nooks 
whon  (hey  get  exciJpdJ  1  give  it  up;  but,  as 
>ianki  Pooh  snys.  "1  buv»  known  it  done  " 

Ttie  fjciuulj  laslod  only  a  few  minutes,  or 
else  wo  ran  out  of  it  into  smooth  water  and 
Kunshiue.  'This  is  a  typical  yaohtsman's 
day,"  said  Murray,  "ami  you  niay  si-o  still 
luoro  variety  of  woathor  before  hi^ht." 

I  told  him  that  it  might  bo  a  ynoiitmp  d-r 
J»ut  it  was  a  blu^rsud    poor   'lay  for  cookiL^. 
and  that    if  wu    had   much   more  variety  of 
weather,  we  wouldn't    ba   likely  to  Bee  any- 
ibiug  to  oat  until  night. 

A  FoK  Vou  Could  Cliow. 

In  1(7  minutes  we  were  in  a  fog,  the  thickest 
I  ever  saw.  You  could  actually  fill  your 
mouth  with  it  and  chow  it.  You  don't 
ore  J  it  that,  you  say;  well,  it  is  a  fact 
but  I'll  give  you  further  proof  of  its  density. 
During  the  squall,  all  my  fresh  water  was 
spilled,  and  I  could  uot  use  the  river  water  to 
make  coffee,  owiug  to  its  brackishness.  I 
just  went  on  deck,  took  a  lew  handfulsof  the 
fog  and  packed  it  down  tightly  in  the  cotree 
pot,  and  you  could  uot  ask  for  better  f  uirco 
than  I  made  with  it.  I  tell  vou  these  St. 
Lawrence  fogs  are  thick,  [could  give  you 
more  startling  evidence  of  the  density  of 
those  fogs,  but,  in  writing,  I  always  govern 
Qiyself  by  the  old  admonition : 

"Lest  men  suspect  your  tule  untrue, 
■,  Keep  probahiliiy  In  view." 

A  UiK  Catcli  of  FiHh. 

We  kept   along   the  north   shore  next  to 
Murray    Bay   where   we   anchored  for    the 
uiRht.    From  below  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  the 
land  rises  in  a  successioa  of   woode<l  moun- 
tain peaks.    Scarcely  a  human    habitation 
can  bo  seen,  in  many  miles,   and  few  signs  of 
life  of  any  kind."    A  stray  sea-gull,  one  or 
,-two  seals,  and  some   porpoises  were  all  the 
<-fiving  things  we   saw.    At   Murray  Bay  the 
iJ^-'f  rivor  is  18  miles   wide. 


J.^  \  Unique  liotol  Clerk. 
Tadousac  is  a  small  village  on  the  shorenof 
a  bav  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  Borne 
lew  Quebec  people  have  summer  cottages 
here,  and  there  is  a  hotel.  Nature  Rnd  a  very 
ordinary  carpenter  have  do^o  all  that  has 
been  done  for  the  hotel..  The  first  has  fur- 
nished the  view  of  the  bay  and  the  rivor  and 
the  far-away  southern  shore  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence— a  view  that  is  magnificent  beyond 
what  words  can  encpress.  The  second  hss 
nailed  up  a  lot  of  boards  into  the  shape  of  a 
barn  and  called  it  a  hotel.  He  has  also 
erected  a  'lag  pole,  but  neglected  to  put  a 
lias  on  it.  The  only  other  visible  adornment 
or  improver.ient  is  a  coat  of  last  year's  white- 
wash on  the  fence.  The  hotel  is  furnished 
with  a  singular  clerk;  but  Icanuottrutbfully 
call  biman  drnamont.    Ue  is  a   young   man 


5i> 


If 


..      'i>  K«  *   t     «*    >* 

Whoso  :<U  HUintntirA  havn  puHsed  litrlitly  oviir  a 

hoait  HliiD(rlcd  with  hair  of  an  autuiiiiinl  kuii- 
set  huo.  His  ohiof  charactorinticH  are  Inn- 
uor,  nii<l  n  imir  of  npottod  trousors.  Tho 
patlorn  of  Ins  troiisHrn  is  ku  loud  that  the 
guoBtti  cannot  hear  tho  teloph'uio  bell  riiiK  in 
the  udk-u.  Tboru  are  no  tolophoues  iu  this 
-vpnrt  of  Cauadtt. 

y'  I  give  this  person  more  spico  in  this  letter 
thnu  ho  iH  worthy  of.  I  do  ho,  only  IxH-nuse 
he  is  so  amusingly  dilToriMit  from  an  Anion- 
can  hotol  clerk,  and  is  a  typo  of  tho  clerk  to 
be  found— after  patient  search  through  tho 
corrltlors— in  all  tho  Canadian  hotulu  uf  the 
fltnaller  clnsi^. 

After  the  yuclit  cast  anchor  In  tlio  bay  1 
went  ashore,  and  strolled  up  to  the  hotol. 
Thero  were  two  men,  n  can  of  bluoborries  and 
a  dog  on  tho  i>orch.  1  walked  up  to  the  olllca 
counter  and  discovorcd  tho  uforedcscribHd 
young  man  sit  ling  reading  a  nnwspupor;  he 
was  also  gnawing  a  quill  toothpick  and  bad 
Iiit:  foot  filed  away  on  top  of  a  safe.  It  was  a 
small  safe  that  wonlil  not  hold  more  thuu  a 
peck  of  gold  without  ripping  at  tho  seams; 
but  It  looked  as  if  it  could  cuti tain  all  tho 
cash  receipts  of  that  hotel  for  \V.)  years. 

"Wonid  you  bo  kind  enough  to  tell  mo 
where  the  postoRico  isJ" 

Thus  I  addressed  the  young  man.  lie 
changed  tho  toothpick  to  tlio  other  side  of  his 
mouth  and  kept  ou  rending  until  ho  had  fin- 
ished tho  paragraph,  then,  without  looking 
up,  said :  ^ 

"Aw— postofTico— want  find  postofnce— up 
road  to  loft,  yo  knaw— quite  distanco—yaas." 

I  found  tho  postollice,  and,  on  my  way 
back,  again  called  at  tho  hotel  because  I 
wanted  a  cigar. 

Tho  clerk  WHS  checking  olT  a  laundry  list 
with  a  servant.  1  said :  "Can  1  get  some  cig- 
ars. hcro<" 

"Two  handkerchiefs,  four  socks,  one  towel, 
six  drawers— "and  on  he  went  through  a  long 
list.  1  stepped  across  tho  hall  and  studied  a 
chart  of  tho  St.  Lawrence,  followiug  its 
course  from  lake  to  gulf  and  calling  in  at 
evcrv  town  oiid  bay  on  the  route; 

"—  —four  undershirts,  two  pair  cnlTs— 
that's  all.  See  that  they  are  done  this  week. 
Aw,  did  you— ow— aw9k  for  cigars,  sirf" 

I  bought  two  cigars,  for  which  I  gave  him 
2.5  cents,  and  about  five  dollars'  worth  of 
genial  sarcasm  in  reference    to  the  leuetb  of 


(!U 


I  ) 


oil  mo 

II 0 

lOf  l»i8 
ll.l  fiu- 
uokiuR 


dry  list 

(UlOClg- 

.  towel. 
Ij  a  lonK 
it,udied  n 
,iuc    its 


f& 


in  at 


juffs— 


lU  w 

ir!' 

vor 


eek. 

biro 
th  of 
alb  of 


riiiu>  hu  roiilii  proHKlo  HI  a  hotol  rlosk  in  llio 
IIiilfiMl  St(ite>:,  hpfortj  tlio  piililic  iviiiild  (Kh 
iiliii  (Mil  froiii  iD'hiiid  tho  ('(luiitnr.  throw  li  ni 
down  tlin  fniiKlit, t'l<'vnti)r  ^Imft  iiiid  nlio  Iron- 

h'Ullvl    Mmiks    oil    lijii>_  (i|-     l...|(ilo     tllO     ll^f(^| 

liropiictor  would  (lr«i  him  Irilo  the  oolil,  in- 
'•lotiM'iit.  world,  mnid  tlm  (liroii;^  of  hiicr>ifi^ 
pudfstriuuH  who  nonid  walk  oxer  liiiii  Ono 
of  llio  K"<**ts  told  me  tluif.  tlm  cIhi  k  wns  kd 
lii/.y  th;it  hu  never  pti'h'd  his  iiotafoes  nt 
diiiiH'i,  liiit  Htc  thi'iii  with  their  Nkiiis  on, 
From  nnothur  source  I  li'iirni'd  that  hi>  was 
NO  full  of  *<iinul  and  n  hi'ii^(<  i,r  i\in  own  itii- 
portau''«  oil  one  oi'cas'oii,  tlint  Im  did 
not  reply  to  tho  (lafiv  of  a  tr\i(>»l  nnrncd 
Hniilh  if^aidin^  llio  hour  of  (Im  (^uidicc 
Rtcniner'B  tli'|ini-tur<«,  until  six  liourn  oftor 
Kiiiltli. hail  left  on  the  stonmcr,  when  |ie  sent 
I  ho  desired  informntion  to  his  residenco  in 
(Jiitihoo,  hy  linlf-Tulo  telepriiphio  message  to 
rolloct. 

I  oun  Imagine  this  younp  mnu,  noiiu*  hnlf 
hour  uftcr  (>al)i'i«l's  tninipet  soiuidn  for  the 
last  time,  snynu',  "Awfront,  go  and— awftir 
you  »{et  ihioimh  ihure,  vo  kimw— no  nndHCo 
if   tho     gimtietniin     ■'-■■■.'■'i  -...--.....»    « 


doesn't  nw-wfint  some- 


Si 


f 


o-» 


now   about   St.     Liiwrciuc.     Ait    mhi 
rcmlv  y  I 

Wli.il  II  '.'riiiid  rivi  r  is  ilic  St.  I.uw- 
rriKc,  wide  iinil  Ici'iiHc  in  vnliinii'.  iiii- 
|icliiniis  I  Hold  lip  there:  ••  teriilic  ' 
in  not  ji  LjtHiil  wnni;  liiilUe  it  '•lliiljes- 
lie."  Wiiei'c  was  I?  Vcs,  ••  ini|ie|. 
ilini.s."  Well,  i^o  on.).  iin)ietiii>iis, 
cli'iiraiid  rapid  in  its  coiii-se  from  Jidvc 
to  oeeaii.  Meaiity  ami  irrniideiir  are 
its  ehiet'.  I  l'a>s  a  piiluw  nft  here,  cap- 
tain ;  ihi-i  lih'>*sed  valise  h.is  nearly 
sawed  olT  my  car.  |  are  its  chief' 
I  thanks  I  characteristics. ..|  (Jot  ••<  har- 
acteristi<'s.";'|     it 

Drains  Half  a  Continent. 

Three  hiiiiilred  and  lifty  s(|iiare  miles 
p.iy  it  trilMite.  l.")()()  miles  lhr(>iii,di 
mountains  and  woods,  valleys  anij 
[No,  .\rcliic.  I'm  tired  of  colVcc;  make 
It  lea  this  eveiiinir.  and  fry  the  eirns 
this  time  without  rnptiirinir  them,  as 
you  iisiijilly  do.  What  wa  -  the  la>l 
word  1  irave  voir'  .\ll  riirlil.  j  valleys 
and  — I  (  oiifonnd  it.  can't  _\oii  a>k  Mr. 
.Murray:'  Don'l  you  see  I  m  lnisy.  and 
what  do  I  know  altoiit  liakiiiii'  powder 
anyhow  ?]  valleys  and  in  c  a  d  o  w  s 
sprcadiiiii-  o  il  I  over  (  Kcmemlier 
"spreadinir  out"  does  not  lieirin  a 
iiev  senteiici  .  |  over  liroad  areas  lie- 
twceii  lields  of  waviiiii'  corn  and  hanks 
frav;rant  with  the  perfume  of  new 
mown  hay  |  My  the  way.  it  isn't  corn, 
is  it.  that  ijrows  up  above  on  the 
river?  It  is  beans  and  potatoes.  | 
think,  tliat  are  mostly  raised  there. 
Corn  will  do  however,  for  you  couldn't 
very  well  speak  of  a  Held  of  waviinr 
beans  or  a  meadow  of  rnstliiiii-  pota- 
toes |,  and  airaiii  narrowiiiLr  as  it 
passes  bet  ween  rocky  capes:  lhroni;'h 
wilderness  and  alonij,'  cultivated  sa\aii- 
iiahs  it  Hows.  For  almost  '..'oO  leairiies 
['I'liree  miles  in  a  league,  isn't 
tliere?|.  from  its  nioiith  to  C^uebe( . 
the  tide  [Kick  that  box  of  tobacco 
up  this  way.  captain.]  rises  and  falls. 
Its  waters  are  tinned  wilh  the  .■^allness 
of  the  >icean,  and  seaweed  cliiiirs  lo 
the  rocks  that  slnidow  ilsshores.  I'ast 
the  commercial  metropolis  .)f  Cana- 
da it  tlows  in  ureat  swirls  and  eddies 
of  u;re<'nish  v.-.iier:  it  circles  around 
the  rock  foiMidatioas  of  Old  (^iicbc'-: 
past  farmlnuises,  hamlets,  villat;-es  and 
towns  spread  out--[No,  scratch  out 
those  last  two  words;  iinike  il  '•scat- 
tered."], scattered  all  alon^  its  soiilli- 
ern  shore,  it  rolls  on  in  lis  majcst\'  and 
ini<j;lit.  receiving;  tribute  from  ail  the 
lands   and  waters  around,  as   sun  ly 

G3 


\ 


.fc-yfct^JS    .":3';n 


■■■«rr3B~.';T*r«.,' 


!  lliis- [A«k  tho  Ciiptiiin  if  that  i<  the 
I  siciiiii  viiclit  Alcxiuidria  we  licar  wliis- 
!  lie.  All  riu'lil.  — this— lliis  wiiat  was  I 
irniiiii  to  sa;,y  Oh.  ^cs  |,  kiiiir  "f 
rivers  should.  Hivcrs.  the  MMirrc  of 
whici!  arc  awav  up  in  the  northtrii 
lanij.  wlici'f  thf  ice  irod  rciirus,  and 
where  only  the 

Indian  and  the  Wild  Beast 

live.  |iour  their  wealth   of    walei-»  out 

on    its  liosoni.      There    are    very    few 

saints    above    that     have    not  a    river 

named  for  Ihein  here  on  earth.  Init  not 

oiu'  oi'  (hem  ha<  a   rivi'r   to   his  mnne 

thai  eonlil  hold   a  candle    to    the  river 

(if  St.     Kawreiice.      |  licltcr    leave  that 

j  parairaph  out.      It  seems   a  lillle  like 

j  i'orcihiT  thiiiiTs  to  speak  (.f  a  ii\  ii' liold- 

in^r  a  candle.     Now  I'll  iro  on  to  spi-ik 

,  of   the    trip    down     from    (.hnliee.      I 

I  fii;iiv  .v'urray  said  he    we  dd    descrilie 

'  that  s(ji!all.  and  the   fo-r,    iml  the  close 

I  call    we    had    when     we    si-raiieij    the 

I  jiaint   olT   the    red     buoy     up   at  (ape 

I  'I'ourmente,  so  I'll  skip  that.  ]  — 

I       l-'rom  (Quebec   to  Mai  bale     or  Miir- 


lav 


■re   oco'ted    b\'  on<'  of 


tlie  mendiers  of  Ihet^nebec  Vachi  Cluti, 


in  his  vacht.  the 


\N 


lat  was  the  name 


of  it  y  Yes  I  Juliet.  The  Juliet  look 
the  south  ■~hoi'e,\>  hi le  we  ran  down  the 
north  side  of  the  Isle  of  ( )rlean>i.  and  we 
saw  our  escort  no  more  until  we  ren- 
dezvoused at  Murray  bay.  — [That  is  n 
i^reat  word  dcni'l  know  iiow  to  spell 
it,  but  it,  sounds  well.  Vou  notice 
that  ships  and  yachts  of  a  licet  or 
squadron   always    rende/.vous       Can't 


,h\ 


don  I    speak  i)i'  woi'ship 


pers  rende/.vousiuL';  at  chun  h.  or  of 
aldeiiueu  rende/.vousinij;  at  the  City 
Mall,  luit  we  don't.  Yes.  you'll  tind  if. 
back  of  the  stove.  You  can  tire  it 
overboard  when  you  jret  throuirh  with 
it.|  — It  w.is  a  <-alm,  hot  day.  and  the 
sailiiiir  was  slow,  but  the  liile  for  live 
or  six  hours  carried  us  aloiiix  at  Ihe 
rale  of  four  or  live  miles  an  hour  past 
Cape  Tourineiite,  a  rocky  crair  I'^HO 
feel  iiIlcIi,  sc;iri-ed  iiiid  loiu   by  winds. 

Then  down 


waves  and  eartinpiake 
alomr  the  jireeii  banks  of  (Jrosse  is- 
laml,  where  in  one  huur,  narrow  fur- 
row,   some  Ihirtv    odil    vt'ars    ajro.   the 


liodies  of  (iO(»l> 


and    dauLdile 


if 


Ireland,    slain     |  not    "slain,"  write  it 
murdend,  1 -iiMirdered  bv  faniim' and 


^iiiilish  heart 


-I  Til 


essness,  W 


ere  laid  away. 


ere     should    be    somelhiiiir  '' 


fter 


"laid   away,"  to   round    olT  that   sen- 
tence, but  we'll  let  it  L'o  at  that.l     The 


I. 


lurt'iitiuii   mouulain   range,    slopinj^ 


M 


•;i 


■f 


up  iitiniptly  finiM  till'  water's  cdirf. 
fnlii.ws  the  (Miiisc  (if  the  ii\cr  on  tlu' 
n  >iili  side.  Ii.ilil.  |ir('(  ipitoiis  hills. 
r(  cky  and  haricii  soiiu-  of  them  iiir.— 
[Am  I  iroiiiji  too  fast  for  you  ■-]— 
OtluTs  arc  rldtlicd  with  birch  and  iiia- 
pli'.  flni  and  l)alsani.  For  hours  we 
sail  down  the  river,  elose  into  ^liore, 
witiioul  x'cing— [Ohaiisre  tliat 
to  •skim."  It  is  >hips  that  sa 
yarlits  always  .skim,  you  know.  |  — 
without  seiii:;,'  a  !iouse.  The  coast 
line  is  jusi  us  wild  as  wJu'u  the  In- 
dians lived  'lack  in  those  woods  there, 
and  to-d.iv  it  looks  much   as    it   uuisi 


^  Unvv  looked  :{(»(}  years  airo,  when 

Jacques  Cartier  First  Beheld  It. 
It  is  < old.  inhospitalile.  sterile,  even 
oti  tliis  summer  day  — [l{ul»  the  rust 
ofT  ^vi•.;l  keroseiu-  oil  tirs!,  und  see 
that  it  is  not  loaded  l)efore  you  \u'<s\\\ 
fooling  witli  it.]-  Tlieri!  are  no  liome*. 
no  liarvesls  here,  and  core  sterile  and 


bleak  docs  if  htoomt'  the  lurtlicr  we 
go  down  the  river.  All  I  there  is  a 
house.  As  we  want  water  let  us  cast 
anchor  and  row  ashore.  There  must 
be  fresh  water  near  where  people  live. 
Our  laconic  captain  says:  ••Nof^ood; 
tlshin;!  station;"  but  lie  obeys  orders, 
and  while  siiis  descend  and  anchor 
swin'j;s  down,  down,  into  the  depllH, 
we  row  ashore. — [Of  all  the  mean 
matches  <'ver  invented,  these  sulphur 
fhiiii,'s  are  the  worst.  Pusii  over  that 
bucket  this  way.  Where  was  I?  Oh, 
"ashore."] — On  a  bea<  ii  of  saml  of  a 
blue  black  color,  we  land.  It  is  the 
qui-erest,  luMviest  sand  I  ever  saw. 
and  shines  with  a  niet.illic  lustre.  It 
is  iron;  ;, es,  miles  and  mih's  of  the 
river  l)ank  are  covtreil  with — f^'o. 
leU  Jiiuji^*,  wmf?)r^^  _      - 

a\n||tC'1 — Hie  ci^jdnte^r.^'^j^ v^rticTe.s 
of  iirakuetic  fxiKJjMfWferous  ijjtiiH  HT* 
There  gk^'lrt  grea>nf)ck<#fof  it— 
[(i^i^Miu^lyiot.  Nevl)j(|2.se  lard;  it 
i  .sh  '  ■ 
W .^  .       ^^ 

^  '^^  ^onie 


L-where^^onj^ 
e  day  bravg 


butter. 

.  _,y  and 

buy  i7 
this 

wealth  to'^fciPi'  who  <]^b^p  it  and  to 
the  terri^Wliat  #ontaii^|L-— [Wait 
a  minu^lr  untrSsi^o  and  sce^^^  that 
tell  him  I  caonot  go  ashore  yet 
awhile.] — the  disintegrated  parliclea 
of  magnetic  and  tillauifcrou.s  iron  ore- 
There  must  be  great  pockets  of  it — 
[Of  course  not.  Never  use  lard;  it 
should  always  be  fried  ia  butter. 
Why  don't  you  save  your  money  and 
buy  a  cook  book  ?]— somewhere  along 
this  river  that  will  some  day  bring 
wealth  to  those  who  develop  it  and  to 
the  territory  that  contains  it.— [Wait 
a  minute  until  I  go  and  see  what  that 
pirate  Archie  is  jiutting  into  the  bat- 
ter. He'll  poison  us  all  some  day, 
and  We'll  .sail  home  in  metallic  cask- 
ets.]—Up  on  the  side  of  the  rock,  00 
feet  above  us,  stands  the  little  house, 
and  there  is  actually  a  garden,  wliich 
seems  to  stand  on  end,  anvl  is  about 
the  size  of  a  back  parlor  carpet. 
Weeds  and  beans  compete  with  each 
other  in  an  effort  to  grow  in  it.  It  is 
unfenced,  I  suppose  because  it  does 
not  need  a  fence.  The  neighbor's  cow 
will  never  break  in  and  chew  up  the 
shrubbery  and   trample   on   the  ornu- 


66 


j}-"-".'al   Pla.u     v,l''^A':|l-;''«^"'•- 
J  ••' ,^">in^'    t.m  fast  for    v.       '  "' ^^l"'" 

J-awrcncc  or    I, -in  '        ""*;»""  »l«!.' Sf. 
come   down   t    ;  ^^:,  /V/'^'   'V  )a„,|  a„,l 

'V-MH-et   that    su'     o,   ,1  1  ''V  """'"" 

For  a  Giant'a  Demijohns. 

trass   r   ever    r,  ."'""■''<■■'*' iiiJit- 

word   I'.rav,.    V   „    '       '^■"'*     "'<■    l.ist 
':"'k    in    thron-i,     tl.      /  .     '''"•     ^^'' 

' '■''■•'''•■S   H   tall,.     .     f   ^^"'.••' "••'"^.  two 
.^'ods:  in's,  .|,.'      •     "    '"••'•    ••'Hd-v.. 

, '', /■■•"<"'■.  and' 'in: ".:''""'""i, ^ '■^• 

;•'''     '•••'-l«'t      will         I."     '•'■"Ili'-an 
'"•""'<''l  on  tl„.  ,  ml    „  ' '"'""••••y    See" 

•J"'"'t   ""d   a    Pill,       ;„ .  ')    l;'-"'l'"„rk! 
■■""'   ••'    pair  of    i'    •"■'""'<■  ••.a.ll,, 

"'.d    wl.il,     J    "','"     '"■  '"■an  j.awh.  I 

"-->f "...  ;::^^.r":ru.;!'''""""''"' 


% 


"*tf- 


lllll!! 


lji||||''''ii;ll;iilJilliil!!!!>''^ 


HERALD  —  SUNDAY, 


•wspupor 

j  over  ti;;- 

\hr  iiitcr- 

l'  wen-  to 

'I  ran  in- 

l|i  whelhiT 

hilion  and 

|y  hud  to 

creek. 

ived  at 

|[toi;i'li 

'l-   yon 

I't.  LiiNV- 
||im«'.  ini- 
I  rterritic ' 
II"  raajes- 
1"  iiupet- 
I'pctumis, 
p-oin  i/*ke 
lljleur  lire 
Ihre,  cap- 
[ijicailv 
llllirf-- 
'<liar- 


II 

miles 

lough 

|ii(l-  - 

Dukc 

II  eggs 

bi,  us 

(e  last 

vallev8 

sk  Mr. 

y,  and 

wder 

w  s 

her 

ri   H 

be- 

auks 

new 


\r\ 


III  III' 


really  think  it  must  have  been  the 
beans,  for  Murray,  who  ate  more  of 
them  than  T  did,  offers  more  gloomy 
suggestions  than  I  do.  Heaven  knows 
the  child  could  not  be  much  worse  off 
iii  his  grave  than  to  grow  up  here,  an 
ignorant,  Htunted,  ill-fed  fisherman, 
his  knowledge  extending  only  to  frag- 
ments of  the  French  language  and 
the  traditional  manner  of  catching 
eels.  Murray  suggests  that  it  may  be 
a  female  child,  fie  is  certainly  look- 
ing on  th€  worst  side  of  things  to-day. 
— [Let  us  cut  this  episode  short,  and 
bring  the  letter  down  to  date.  Try 
this  pencil.    Yours  is  too  soft.] 

Against  the  wind  wc  beat  mto  Ta- 
dousac  bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Saguenay.  The  line  where  the  latter 
joins  the  St.  Lawrence  is  very  clearly 
defined.  The  water  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence is  greenish,  that  of  the  Saguenay 
is  of  the  color  of  strong  tea  that  might 
cost  about  70  cents  a  pound.  They 
do  not  seem  to  blend  at  the  surface. 
The  bed  of  the  Saguenay  is  several 
hundred  feet  deeper  than  the  bed  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  is  at  their  juncture. 
It  is  said  to  be  tlie 

Deepest  River  in  the  World. 

In  some  places  its  depth  exceeds  1000 
feet,  and  its  average  depth  for  G5  miles 
from  its  mouth  is  over  a  lumdred  fath- 
oms. There  is  no  anchorage  in  all 
that  distance. 

Tadousac  is  a  small  village,  one  ho- 
tel, two  stores  and  a  number  of  cot- 
tages.—[Why,  wiiat  confounded  smell 
is— I'll  be  blessed  if  there  isn't  cheese 
mixed  with  this  tobacco!  The  next 
time  I  go  yachting  I'll  go  in  a  boat 
that  will  be  at  least  big  enough  to  give 
inc  room  to  slow  an  e.vtra  shirt  away 
without  having  to  put  it  alor\gside  tlie 


I 


I 


readers 
ures.     )1| 
ested  ar 
read  an 
to  the  su,| 
it  had  t( 
eleven  'Jll 
saunter] 
Where ""' 
Tadou^ 
now   Hi 
ready  J 
What! 
rence,  wl 
petuoua- 
is  not  ^\\ 
tic."    ^11 
uous.'^'l  }, 
clear  ^''"" 

to   OC>|||||| 

its  ch^lj 
tain  ;ji 
saweqll 
[thani 
acteri; 


Thr.ll 

p»y 

moun 

[No,  Ai 
It  tea  I 
this  ti 
you 
won 
and- 
Mun 
what 
any  hi 
sprea 
"  spr 
new  I 

•  '^^'■'^ 

*  frag] 

mow' 

llir.f-r  1 


08 


''•'••■akfjisi  bacon    iiirJ  ui 


tl,.,.    ■,.;|i '""•  A-"^"''  il  <•< 


:'i:!?:":.  ^"pp'-.-  r.X. 


09 


m- 


•  *  '^--  - 


).    i 


iy.J^('i^.'^^im0$h:^  ''^' 


-'-i^ 


' '  ^  ^' ",', 


\  • 


^^U,     ,    x^i/    > 


A  GREAT  YACHT  CRUISE 


KNOX'S  LETTER. 


LlarM,  Plraten,  and  Ghnul*— A  Statuc- 

or-Liberty  Colored  Kquaw-Slioot" 

iiiU  SeulM  In  Canadian  Waicra. 

Tlie  Frc'iich-Ciinndiiins  who  live  iu  the 
rural  districts  arc  culled  liabitanta.  The 
lml)itiiiit  wlio  lives  in  the  seltlemeiits 
visited  by  strangers  is  a  liar,  a  pirate  and 
a  i^houl.  Those  words  do  not  quite  ex- 
press my  nieanini;,  l)iit  they  are  all  that 
conic  to  inc  just  now.  If  you  have  any 
private  words  of  your  own  that  will  more 
strongly  e.spress  fraud,  rai)acity,  indo- 
ieiice.  sycophancv  and  niendaciiy,  slick 
tlieni  iu  right  here;  they  cannot  do  injus- 
tice to  the  character  of  the  liabitant.  Away 
back  in  behind  the  hills,  where  he  lives  on 
a  farm,  and  is  uncontaminatcd  by  the  ar- 
rival of  a  weekly  steamer,  he  may  be  dif- 
ferent, bui  I  speak  of  the  native  wlio 
infests  the  little  towns  in  tlie  naked,  deso- 
late, rock-girt  bays  of  tlie  lower  St.  Law- 
rence. 

He  is  undersized,  dark->ikinned  and 
hungry  looking.  He  moves  and  acts  and 
does  evorytinng  else,  except  talk,  in  a 
hi/y,  slow  way.  He  leans  again,<t  f»nces 
and  stands  on  wharfs  during  most  of  his 
waking  iiours.  I  never  saw  but  one  of 
tiieni  in  a  liurry.  When  I  saw  iiint  he  was 
falling  oir  a  bridge  at  low  tide.  The  hab- 
itant is  a  loafer.  But  in  some  things  he  is 
not  like  the  American  loafer.  He  wears 
belter  clothes  and  is  seldom  addicted  to 
drink;  but  he  never  seems  to  work  or  to 
be  anxious  to  have  work  thrust  upon  him. 
Sometimes  he  drives  a  cart  orcaleche  from 
the  wharf  to  the  hotel,  but  he  iloes  it  in  a 
perfunctory  way,  and  as  if  he  were  merely 
acting  for  the  moment  as  a  substitute  tor 
the  regular  driver.  His  manners,  customs 
and  language  arc  the  same  as  those  of 
the  pioneers  who  settUnl  the  country      He 


Li 


c-  I 


he 

"he 

nls 

iiu 

ex- 

,\>al 


us- 

on 
ar- 
dif- 

:so- 


land 

i\tu 

In   a 

^iccs 

his 

of 

I  was  ' 


ab- 
ke  is 
[cars ' 
}l  to 
|r  vo 
lnn\. 
]ion\ 
[in  a 
h'lcly 
tor 

toiUH 

of 
He 


:  c  K  o 


•i?S'^£ 


.,.  S  "1  ^  t^  '^  ~ 


5;    ~  f?    = 


» 


OT3 
—  ? 


;«  —  c 


-  =  -    '  =  32. 


(^  ~  as 


-  -  '^  H  :i  =•  5 


=  -  =.  a. ,. 


•;  ? 


—  •/,  ?6 '«  3        f5  r  ^  _■:  C'*;  :i. 

£,=  ?•="_  ,tr,M  r.  7'  2.  =•  ^ 


-  -5  ^-    • 

<A    C     ^     ^ 


n 


-^    r^    3 


;;  -  J; 


'r.    -N 


=    —  5  •=:    r-  =t  "    — "^    -0=-'-'        •-?_—  /^^ 


C    t«    -  ■  /: 


0 


—    /»  li    X 


*"  3"  ?I    S'  ^    -1 


5  C    -, 

3  c  q  - 


T  r  c 

?i   5    O 


S-c  p..'^  =,r  J 


^ 

s  rr 

M 

^ 

-  3   '       *3  J^    3 

m^ 

3 

_ 

— 

X 

(t 

(-• 

ti.    o 

s 

-^ 

^ 

)-• 

A 

SJ 

'»  -  5;  vj  =!•  3 

"■ 

^ 

n. 

"1  t^ 

y 

" 

-  ^  =  o  _.'n 

T 

~          »    =    !0    -I 

TT 

_ 

•H 

3    ^T^ 

^ 

r?^l.-i 

1^ 

2 

< 

'-^ 

T. 

r- 

*A 

C    X.. 

V. 

-"  i  '^  c  1 

^  -   rj   <«   2  ►— 

^ 

r:. 

r 

X    ^ 

> 

(I 

•-^ 

< 

^    V) 

.< 
^ 

^ 

-  'i  =  -  o  c 
c  -    =  ^  "  _. 

•-^ 

C  ->  4    -  r.    < 

•1 

— ■ 

~ 

— 

Z       •■•      "^^     ^      *—    — 

(^    O   O    '7;    7. 


k.; 


(I  sliiill  Kivc  further  details  of  litis  in  an- 
ollitr  letter.) 

From  (Quebec  to  below  the  Labrador 
coast  tliere  is  no  game  worth  liunting. 
^o  aninuil  that  rould  not  nxlRt  on  granite 
and  sout  .-western  fogs,  or  on  birchliark 
and  ice,  would  think  of  residing  liere  as  a 
steady  thing.  In  all  the  hotels— if  the 
miserable  pensions  where  tourists  are 
robbed  can  be  called  hotels — there  is  osten- 
tatiously posted  in  the  halls  a  printed  copy 
of  the  Canadian  game  laws.  These  in- 
form  you  that  you  must  not  shoot  duck  or 
deer,  nor  kill  partridge,  nor,  by  trap  or 
other  device,  take  either  moose  or  caribou 
during  certain  months  of  the  year  called 
the  close  season,  or  you  will  be  fined.  No 
one  has  ever  been  fined.  They  might  as 
well  prohibit  us  from  trolling  for  mermaids 
or  snaring  moistodons. 

There  are  some  salmon  in  the  small  riv- 
ers, I  am  fold.  I  met  Mr.  Brackett.  the 
well  known  Boston  artist,  at  Tadousac. 
He  pays  the  government  $150  a  year  for 
the  privilege  of  searching  for  salmon  in  the 
Marguerite  river,  lie  has  been  steadily 
exploring  during  two  months  this  summer, 
assisted  by  a  native  guide  and  a  trunk  full 
of  expensive  rods,  reels  and  gaffs,  and  has 
in  that  time  discovered  and  slain.  I  think, 
six  salmon.  When  the  government  of 
Canada  can  get  !ii25  a  piece  for  its  salmon 
1  do  not  wonder  that  the  Canadians  make 
so  much  atlo  regarding  American  inter- 
ference with  their  fishery  interests. 

There  are  white  porpoises  in  great  num- 
bers in  the  lower  8t.  Lawrence  and  in  the 
Saguenay,  and  shooting  and  harpooning 
tliem  is  excellent  spurt  They  weigh  from 
COO  to  1500  pounds,  sum?  are  from  ten  to 
fifteen  feet  in  length.  •  It  is,  however, 
about  a  seal  huntin<;cxneditiou  that  I  want 
to  tell  you  now. 

At  a  hamlet  near  Uiviere  du  Loup,  I 
asked  if  there  were  any  seal  hunters  there. 
I  was  directed  to  the  hut  of  an  Indian  who 
made  a  business  of  shooting  .eeal.  I  found 
him,  and  he  agreed,  for  the  sum  of  ijil  and 
any  seal  in  whose  life  blood  I  should  im- 
bue my  hands,  to  take  me  out  all  the  next 
day.  That  was  yesterday.  He  did  not 
come  as  promised  because  he  was  sick, 
bvit 

■  IE   SENT   Ills   KUOTIIER. 

an  aged  Indian,  who  sjjoUe  a  fluent  sort  of 
Indian  tongue,  slightly  adulterated  with  a 
little  Frencli  and  English.  There  was  only 
about  10  per  cent,  (jf  the  latter  .sprinkled 
through  his  conversation,  .so  that  to  have 
any  knowledge  of  what  he  was  talking 
about,  you  had  to  watch  for  a  faioiliar 
word  as  you  would   watcti   for   Hashes   of 


72 


Ilflhtniiiir  10   siiitle   ymir  .stepson    a   dark 

niiilit.     ile  liiul  II  OHiiDo,  and  an  old  snxxuli 

li  le  L'lm,  a  small  liarponn  and  a  lari^c  wife. 

Tlif    latter  I   objected    to   takini;   with  us, 

not  liecanse  she  had  a  face  u>;ly  en()Ui;li    to 

!  wrtrp  a  pine   board,  but   because   slie  evi- 

'  dtiitly   wtiglieil    upward   of  200   pounds, 

j  and  tlic   canoe   was  a  frail  ibing  made   of 

!  hirclibark,  and    looked   oidy   equal  lo   tlie 

'  riiriyii'g  <>f  iwo  men  and  a  SHudwicli  hmeli. 

!  I  gathered  from  ^^hat  the  Indian  said  that  if 

I  wished   only  one  to   go  iu    the  caMoe,  lie 

would  stay  ashore  and  the  squaw  would  go 

with   me  :   '   Le   bonne  squaw   every  lime 

poriugc  batteau  noadi  qnoddy.'" 

I  declined  to  be  alone  in  an  open  boat 
with  a  siatue-of-libcrty  colored  female 
weighing  200  pounds.  After  much  talk, 
I  at  last  agieeri  that  I  would  lake  both,  for 
I  was  anxious  to  Mhoot  some  .seals  as  I  had 
only  shot  one  since  we  started  on  this  trip 
I  thought  if  they  who  knew  the  capacity 
of  the  canoe  would  take  the  risk,  I  might 
be  safe  in  doing  so. 

In  the  bow  kneil  the  old  Indian,  the 
?(iuaw  on  her  knees  in  the  stern,  and  I  in 
the  middle  of  the  ranoe.  The  water  was 
smooth  inshore,  and  they  paddled  for  a 
mile  or  two  very  quickly.  Presently  a 
seal's  head  appeared  above  the  surface. 
Tiie  Indian  did  not  speak  or  move  his 
hands  from  the  paddle,  but  with  a  move- 
ment of  his  lips  pointed  it  out.  Before  I 
could  raise  my  rifle  it  disappeared,  and 
when  it  came  up  again  it  was  half  a  mile 
away,  A  seal  does  not  plunge  nor  dive 
below  with  a  splutter  when  alarmed,  as  a 
porpoise  does.  It  just  disappears.  You 
are  looking  at  its  head,  have  taken  sight 
and  are  about  to  pull  the  trigger,  when  you 
suddenly  realize  that  you  are  aiming  at  a 
slight  ripple  on  the  water,  and  that  there 
is  DO  seal  in  sight.  Tlie  Indians  shoot  seal 
with  buckshot.  They  use  the  cheapest 
and  worst  kind  of 

OLD     MTZZLE-LOADING    0DN8 

I  ever  saw.  They  carry  their  powder  in  a 
horu,  their  buckshot  in  a  sealskin  bag,  and 
they  use  pieces  of  buckskin  or  rawhide  for 


j; 


■c^ ' 


wnds  TIk!  |>()i|)ol8c  luinteiH  have  ilie 
siiine  kind  of  otitis,  hut  ll^(■  hiillcts.  As 
\vi-  (ukIiIUmI  aloiii;  I  shot  soiiio  ^^ca  pif^eons. 
Thi'V  aic  a  small  kind  of  (hick  and  very 
(hllic'iill  to  sliii(>t.  As  sound  travols  (|uickcr 
than  docs  h'ad  from  a  lilU-,  I  hey  hiar  tin; 
snap  of  the  hamuicr  and  divi;  hcfoio  the 
l)Mlli't  can  teach  them.  I  beat  them  at 
this  ixanie  hy  shootiiii;  to  make  Iheni  dive, 
and  (hen  watching'  until  ihcy  came  up, 
planlin^r  a  liullcl  in  them  licforc  Ihey 
liad  time  to  shak(!  the  water  out  of  tiieir 
eyes 

We  caiuc  to  a  piomotitory,  and  the  In- 
dian ran  tin;  canoe  ushorc.  1  could  not  Hce 
why  he  did  this,  unless  he  ex|)ectcd  to 
lind  seal  in  the  woods.  He  said:  "  I'orl- 
ai:;e.  lleaj)  j^nod  noodi-quodily  "  To  have 
such  a  scnteiHc  as  (hat  tired  at  a  man  ns 
he  enter'!  the  wnods  with  two  slraiiijc  In- 
dians is  not  soothin;;.  He  loaded  the 
canoe  on  tiie  hhouKlers  ol  the  S(juaw, 
strapped  the  nun  to  her  hack,  ami  t;ave 
her  the  paddles  to  carry.  He  horc  his 
share  of  tiie  heal  uml  bunleii  of  the  (hiy  l)y 
cai tying  the  liarpoon.  whiih  weii;i)ed 
altoul  a  poiuid  and  a  half.  Now  I  knew 
why  he  hroiiLdit  his  wife  with  him.  We 
went  up  a  hid  and  tluou!;h  woods  for  lialf 
a  mile,  pushing;  thrjujih  dense  under- 
jirowth  in  some  phices  and  over  fallen 
trees  and  rocks  in  others  We  emerged 
fiom  this  on  to  the  beach.  We  hadcros.>'ed 
tlie  land  end  of  tlie  piomontory  [o  save 
paddling  around,  a  distance  of  about  si.x 
miles  That  was  why  he  had  spoken  so 
conipliineiitary  of  his  wife  in  tlie  morning: 
"  Le  bonne  S(imiw  portage  balteau" — the 
good  s(|mi\v  for  oaiiyiiii;  a  bout. 

The  Iifdian  stepped  into  tlio  canoe,  mo. 
tioned  me  to  follow,  and  snid  something 
to  liis  wife  yiie  replied  "Oui,"  and  that 
was  tlie  only  word  she  8poke  all  thai  day. 
She  squatted  in  the  sand,  and  the  Indian 
paddled  out  into  the  river.  We  went 
alongshore  a  distance  of  about  four  miles, 
then  out  into  the  river,  where  the  tide  was 
running  down  rapiiily. 

Seals  are  easy  to  shoot.  We  got  three 
in  a  short  time, 

THE    INDIAN     KILLING 

one  with  his  buckshot,  and  two  falling  to 
the  share  of  my  rille  When  shot,  you 
have  to  paddle  up  quickly  and  liarpoon 
tliem  before  lliey  siid{.  In  winter,  wiien 
they  are  much  fatter  than  ihey  are  now, 
they  tioat  for  a  longer  lime  after  being 
shot 

Further  out  we  saw  a  number  of  seals. 
The  water  was  dotted  with  their  head."*; 
probably  there  were  40  in    sight.     The  old 


A  ''r 


*J 


'* 


iniiri  pointed  In  llic  <  Intids  atiil  tiitkcil  and 
iiiiiilc  Bii;iiN  Hiid  shdiik  liis  liiad  i  tolii 
lull)  I  vMiH  in  a  liiiiry,  iiiid  llial  llii^<  \Na^ 
iu>  liint;  to  stop  to  Iiik  li  iik;  liis  lliiroii, 
IiO(]U()is  (ir  ('oniaiulic  laii?ii:i'^i'.  Il  wiis 
iidl,  howi-vn'.  until  I  sliowcd  linn  a  dnllai'. 
find  cxplaineiliiy '^i^ns  llnil  it  was  liis  if 
III-  paddlcil  inc  out  (juii  Uly  to  the  seals, 
lliil  lie  cini'-riiled.  licl.iie  uc  readied  the 
(ilare  wlicre  they  li.id  liceii.  tiny  liad  all 
dimppcaied,  ami  the  water  h:id  Iikdiik! 
idULih.  One  of  the  >ildd(ii  S(|ii:ills  cum. 
mon  (in  the  St.  Lawieiiec  hail  coine  up, 
:ind  the  canoe  boniiced  on  waves  cacli 
twite  as  hiuh  as  itself.  'I'he  Indian  hail 
■ifcn  the  squall  «'oniin;;.  That  wa-t  what 
he  had  hcen  tivin;:  to  explain  to  nie  when 
lie  pom  ed  to  the  sky,  hut  he  had  neveitlie. 
Ie'«s,  for  the  saixe  of  a  pro»pi(  livi' diill.ir. 
risked  his  own  worihli.>s  njd  jitc  and  my 
IliLddv  iiisnied    exi^leiui' 

The  wind  was  ri^iiii;  an<l  ilie  waves  i^ct- 
tinj  hiL'lu  r.  and  I  siunal Cd  lo  ilit-  ojil  to. 
ha(  CO  siun  in  the  stem  to  paddle  asjiore. 
He  olieyed  with  ahu  rily.  In  lact.  lie  was 
too  eaiicr  toslart,  and,  turnmu'  too  ijuickly, 
i;ot  into  the  troiijiii  (>f  (he  sea.  and  in  a 
moment  the  canoe  siiipped  a  wave  and  was 


''./. 


iV 


''..y 


Now,  there  is  a  L'reat  deal  of    repose  in  m\ 
J  never  iiidnlL'e  in  wild   oi'-'ies  ot 
I    si.'ldom  ru.'i    wiien  I   can 
I 


nature 

manual 

w  ilk,  never   walk   when    I    can   ride,  and 

prefer  sitlin;;  to   standinj^   at   anytime      I 

iisiiallv  have  mv  phvsical  exercise  done  for 


u^iiain    iia\<    iii\    |Mn  Mi.iii  e.Mi  I  i>L-  iioiir  loi 

mi'  hy  proxy,  by  a    hired  man  at    !|;1  ,i  d;i\ 
and    his    hoard.       So    I    hesitated,    neithei 
desirimx  the  jol)  Mor  feelini^  eipial  toil;  hut 
the  old  Indian  was    uri;ent,  and    wlien  an 
other  wave  joined  the  fust   in    t lie  canoe.  I 


T 

lilt 


75 


l'' 


\ 


Biiw  that  sotnctlilni;  h>u\  to  bo  dnne,  nnd 
"  if  it  wore  tlone,  twcre  woll  it  wi'ie  done 
quicitly."  I  used  my  '^A  cap,  tlic  one 
Willi  tiio  hrnss  butlons  on  it,  to  Imil  with, 
and  tlie  way  I  niadc  nioistnru  tly  astonished 
myself  anil  nearly  drowned  the  Indian. 
People  ashore  who  were  lookinir  in  our  di- 
rection must  liave  thouijht  that  a  water- 
spout was  spoutine,  or  a  cyclone  cycling 
out  in  the  river.  Tlie  wind  was  blowing 
us  out  toward  llie  dangerous  swirls  and 
eddica. 

IN    THE    Minni.B   OK  TME    RIVEK, 

despite  the  elTorts  of  the  Indian.  He 
shoved  a  paddle  toward  me.  and  in  iiis 
beautiful  and  tiguralive  language,  that  I 
did  not  understand,  said  that  if  I  ever 
wanted  to  see  mu<l  on  my  boots  again  or 
change  my  shirt  here  on  earth.  I  had  bet- 
ter take  the  paddle  and  pad  for  all  I 
was  worth.  These  are  not  the  e.vact  words 
he  used,  perhaps,  but  I  caught  the  idea  he 
meant  to  convey,  and  I  made  some  wild, 
impetuous  strokes  with  the  paddle  that 
nearly  capsized  the  craft.  Once,  when  I 
missed  touching  the  water  with  niy  paddle. 
1  narrowly  missed  crashing  through  th  ; 
l)ottom  of  the  canoe;  but  when  I  .settlil 
down  to  steady  jtaddling,  I  made  the  wr.tcr 
fairly  smoke.  I  must  have  Ik  en  accumu- 
lating energy  all  of  these  years,  and  have 
had  a  tremendous  lot  of  il  stoied  inside 
me  without  knowing  it.  Perhaps  I  have 
been  an  athlete  all  the  time  without  being 
aware  of  the  fact.     I  umy  have  inherited 


V^ 


Tt; 


KNOX  AS  A  FISHERMAN 


Trout  Fishing  Extraordinary 
with  a  French  Canadian. 


SEAL    AND    PORPOISE    HUNTING- 


Thn  Texan's  Graphic   Description 

of  the  Capture  of  Seals  and 

Porpoises. 


On  Boaku  Yaciit  C'ii ami-lain. 
Tadovsac.  v.  Q. 

I  have  oftoii  Rone  fishing,  Init  I  have 
noviT  raiif^ht  eiiouuli  fish  to  fx'wv  me  even 
a  basis  to  I'oiiiuJ  11  111' on.  I  havfbi'oiiwitli 
many  a  fisi»in<»  party,  InU  I  have  usually 
boon*  tiki  II  biTaiisL'' I  owmd  a  boat,  or  a 
\va;:;on,  or  somotliinj^  useful  to  the  Jiarty. 

My  duty  at  such  times  has  been  to 
•\vateh  over  the  jirovisions  and  the  demi- 
john, and  afterwards  eormborate  such 
stories  as  the  rest  c^f  the  jtarty  chose  to 
tell  their  friends  at  home,  of  the  enormous 
trout  and  tremendous  i)ass  (hey  caught 
or  that  tiiey  liooked  and  didn't  catch.  I 
am  considered  an  exi)erl  ii'.  estimating  the 
weight  to  an  ounce  of  very  large  fish  tiiat 
break  the  line  and  get  away.  Tliere  seems 
to  be  very  little  fisliing  done  in  this  part  of 
the  Ht.  fiawrence.  We  have  tried  it  at 
several  places,  but  with  very  little  success. 

Thi  only  big  haul  we  maile  was  one 
afternoon  when  we  came  uj)on  a  school 
of  fish  so  closely  packed  together  that 
vou  coi'ld  have  walked  on  them  Fact! 
We  got  three  dozen  inside  of  about  five 
minutes— out  of  a  herring  barrel  in  a 
grocery  store. 

TKOir    KISIIINO   KXTIJAOUniNAlEV. 

1  started,  on  Monday,  to  go  trout  fish- 
ing oM  a  lake   near   Tadousnc      I    met   a  i 


r-.-,.-r.;7TI.-..-,-J-t!rsr." 


FriiK  li  ('uiiudian,  iiaiiKti  Haptiste,  in  his 
lioiit  on  lii(!  Sii}riu  iia\ .  ihc  day  I'l-fon  ,  uiid 
he  told  mo  of  a  larg-  1  vko  oilly  Mix  in'iWf. 
away  where  the  trout  .vcro  so  nuin'.'rous 
of  late  lliat  tliey  were  actually  sutTcrinu' 
from  laek  of  water.  They  were  ail  lar<;e 
lish.he  said,  no  small  ones  at  all, and  (hey 
were  i)rt  pared  at  all  limes  to  arc cpi  hait 
of  any  rharaeter.  I  asked  him  where  I 
could  tind  some  one  to  f^uide  me  \i>  the 
lake.  Ih-  said  lliat  allhounh  he  was  sur- 
feited with  pullinu  out  trout  at  this  sea- 
son, he  would  not  mind  j^oinij  with  me 
himself,  just  to  oldi^e  nu'.  I  thoui^ht 
this  very  courteous  to  a  striuij^cr,  hut 
these  Canadians  are  ulwivyscourteous  and 
ohlii^inj:^. 

There  would  he  some  little  e.\j)ense,  Ik 
intimated,    which    "Monsieur   vould    no 
douht  be  veelins  to  pay  "     I  a^sund  him 
I  was  perfectly  williuir  to  jiay,  and  jir^ed 
him  to  spare!  no  expeiist-  in   making  pre- 
paration* and  in    providing   tisnini^   ma- 
terials.    I   knew  that   when    I    i^ot   ba(  k 
from  this  trip  to   New  York    my  friemls 
Aduld  expert  to  se<!  lish  scales  in  :ny  hair, 
j  u;  d  I  wished  to  he  able  to  nx-et  their  ex- 
I  pe«  ations  with,  at  least,  a  trutliful  tish- 
I  i');^  narrative  that  would  do  nu-  ( redit 
I      Haptisle  came  for  in<!  ai)oul   7   f)'elook 
I  next  mornini^      He  was  d.iviii;;  a   horse 
I  and  silting   on    a   two-whei  led    thin;^    he 
j  railed  a  cart.     Me  said  he  hail  made  '  pre- 
parralions  ^ramies."  I  saw  nosij^n  of  the 
preparations   for   trout  slau;;h'ei',  excejit 
one  rounh  (ishln^-iiole  and  line.  T  noticed 
also  an  axe  in  the  <  art. 

We  started  in  lie  cart  over  the  moun- 
tains. There  are  no  roads  in  this  part  of 
the  country  beyond  a  radius  of  one  mile 
from  Tadousac.  The  country  is  moun- 
tainous and  rocky.  We  t  liml)ed  tip  hills 
and  humped  over  boulders  and  fallen 
trees  into  canyon.s,  while  Uuptiste  talkecl 


» 


n'i'toviii'jly  --oinilimt -i,  :ii.<l  sdim  Iiiim's 
ni'  oniMjiiiii'lv  ,1"  111''  ln'i'.(^.:iuil  I  -  iin«K:  i| 
iiiid  waiinl  Id  li;iv<  mv  ;h  i  K  liiokrii.  ! 
soiiii  fiiimd  nut  wli.il  ihc  :ixc  \v)i-<  for. 
Till-  (,ut  wmilil  iii\  sttK  k  in  A  MiiMi'w 
plin  ('.111111  H;i|.li-*l«'  wi'iild  H*l  (Hit  ainl  lirw 
4l()\vii  ii  IM  (■  lliat  wii^i  in  ll\"'  way,  while  I 
v.oMliI  iTv-train  llir  t|iiailni|>((i  in  ilicrarl. 

WHKHK    rAIIKMK    «A^    KKyil'!  I  K, 

Aliout  !*  o'llot  ii  \vr  (ivnli>i>k  anoilirr 
nut,  on  lli«'  lop  nf  xviiii  h  was  a  caniK-. 
This  (  ar".  was  Mlixk  in  a  small  iavin«> 
lhrt>ni:h  \\ln<h  tiowid  u  dtip  slnam 
al>l'Ut^^i\  till  wiijr.  Twii  nun  wen-  !  nl- 
linn  tjixvii  liiis  iiuil  ntiikiii'^  a  lni^L"'. 
Kajilish-  told  inc  tiial  liii><  was  |i.iii  nf 
"/«•  i>r<]>,n  rations  i^ramh -■  "  llial  In  iiati 
tnailo  lor  inc.  I'lic  cMiiof.  he  >.'nl.  was 
to  MM' on  tiic  lake  wlnn  we  <i'>[  llnir. 
Iho  rail  was  to  (any  tin-  «'anor.  :in<l  lin 
two  ini'ii  wvrc  to  kick  tin-  hoi'-r  wlnii  il 
slo|ri((l,    111(1    to    build    I'lidvV  •*    '""l   '"^^ 


:  ,v-\  4v*"    Wa 


iifef^^^v. . 


out  llic  way  witli  ihcir  axes.  Il  took  an 
hour  to  llnisii  the  lirid^^c,  and  we  were 
tlicii  only  two  miles  from  'radonsac. 

"  l*alii'in(',  Monsieur;   vc  (:;el,  zcrc  by- 
cmbv,    and    zcn    remember    zc    feesh  ve 


80 


|f""l'r.  )i„(|    ^y„^    I.,,,.  . 

I   .■•"*  "'  /<•  rr.,„|    '  ,,,  ,  '  "'     ''""^"-    (,.r   /,. 
•""'>'!".' (or    „ns'.       .'V,""'';',      '"'"^- 


'     IIKIl" 

I"'  ('.I 

'•  ii  lit 

''^■\l■  AM,    |..,|;|7„^,       ,, 


Tl, 


i"s;''7;;'i',V''''^''''' ''- -.r 

'.""'•■"   ""■■iMir,.,|     ■        '7"'""1m-||.,| 
"";!  "'■i^'l..■.l  :-VH«),,,,    ;,:'''•■•'  '-'''■••.Ml, 


"■v."s::' ^'""" ' 

('•.    .      s,.,,| 


"'■<(in|j||,r        (,, 


::'■'•••■';  ••"  ",;.„„,•,,'■■;'•' '•"^iM 

-^  M;;;:i  rr  ;£■';-""' ";...':is 

'"F-'v«:l;^!:  •    •■-^'":-"™ 
"'"""'"•"•^-'•"Mr  ...    :"^^  ■^''"  ^^"> 
V'"'  '""I '"''.s    /',';;"-• '^iV'-i-.K, 

,  "'^"    !i     l;if.r,.     ,,i     '"    "■"••'■•      Ki.n.   H„, 

,;:•)  ';• "...;..;;"?:'";:''- '-i.. 

'..u,yi,,,.r„„,.     ■'"""■i""i'<.is,.  „i,i,i,; 

(r"'i'-^''In!i'"7iSi::'''!:,''"''^  "-in,,.,,,,. 

.I'M'-' iw.li,  ,^  :;;'•■-'•'' I'^ium",! 

'"^^''I"'H..!  Lis,  ','•'.'";'"•  I'ivi-'MM  I.vj 

/?;''''M.ni.ni, J:  ,:;:;;; '''/-'-".ui.il 

"/'I'r^-l  ii,.,„  „  '    |.  ""^'"r-    •l"^n,s 

'?!'    ^'<'    ^^"Kr.  al.M,    4,;, '"■•'"'  "''•••■"'■'•,l 

i'-tullcs  o!  ciirli  j 


N| 


i 


I  i 


I  I'MiKK'     IIihIii'iI     in     llii'     will)  I',     mihI     thr 

riilior'^   'jIiiiI    liMwiiril     lini'^clryil y,    lull    ill 

I  III)    ii>j|niiix|iiinj,    rule   of     wpml.       Il   \mm  ii 

I  line  (nr  I  lir  '^|iii|  w  lie  re  ril  lirr  wiilllil  cnn 

I  siilcl-  lie  WiiM  lirtir  rlmlluli  In  wlinnl.     'riir\ 

I  Jiil-^-Jril    ll'J,    mill    \M'     WrlT    (il'lv    Vill'ih  Im- 

jiiiiil   lliriii    mill  iiliniil   iriO  ym'(l'4  t'tniii  Hie 

si'.'ll,     \\  lirll    llir     lliilimi     ill    llir    tnli'iniwl 

rmiiM'  ImIiI  iIiiwii  lii'4  jiMilillr  mill  icuclii'il 

fnr  U'\^  srnii 

i  wii'^  \Miiliiiu:  f"i'  III"'  ini'iiii'iil.  II 
W!l>J  111!  I'ii'JN  «liti|  Tiir  srii,  jlisl  iJH'ii, 
w.'i')  IIS  sii.iDiilli  iM  niiis",  mill  llir  ilrcK  nf 
till'  lir.'i\\  w  liiili'liiiiil  ll.'lil  nil  prirrptililr 
iiinliiin.  Tiir  lirml  111'  llir  wriil  niilv  n|»- 
prmril  il'ioM'  111!'  wrilrr.  'i'lli'  Hri'iMliI  III 
ilimi  sinppnl  III  llii'  smiir  innnirnl,  iil- 
llioii.'I,  In-  wiis  It'll  yiinh  liirllirr  froin  llir 
sriil.  \s  lliry  wriT  niisiiiL!:  Ilirir  jiiins  (ii 
llirir  s'nuiltiriy,  I  (iii'il.  'I'Ih'Ii'  wih  ii  Iri'- 
lliriiil'  IIS  iiiiiiinol  ion  in  llir  willrv  wlirir 
till'  s,  Ill's  jii'iiil  liiiil  lirrii,  mill  Iwo  ilis- 
i;iis|ri|  linlimis  vvrir  siiiinu'  ulmiiii:-  iil  iis. 
!is     iiiiiiiunlrss    lis    wliin     wr    lirsi     snw 

lilrlll 

Siipposiiiir  licit  \M'  liiiil  only  wniiiiili'il 
tlii<  sriil  mill  lliiil  il  liiicj  <li\ I'll,  our  lioiil 
lirMilri!  Nnrlli  miil  snilrij  iiwiiy.  |,oiikiii<r 
Inn  Iv,  w  r  Miw  llir  l«o  liiilimis  rininir 
ii^iiiii  low  mil  llir  si'iil.  wliicli  wiis  now 
nil  llir  siirl'iirc  nf  llir  \\  iilrr  ilciiil  'I'lii' 
Imiimi  \\  lio  firsi  ii'inlicil  il  shirk  his  Imr. 
ponll  in  it,  w  llilr  till'  ntln  r  ;lpp<';ili'il  to  lis 
with  vniir  mid  m'slnii',  Wr  tnrknl 
moiiiiii  mill  Inlil  llii'iii  In  iliviili>  siirli  prn- 
lil  lis  llii'ii'  iniulil  lir  in  Ilii'  seal  lii'twcrii 
tlirin.  It  was  nf  nn  iisi'  |o  ini",  us  Ihr 
skin  rmiiinl  lii'  t.innril  liiTr  cM'rpI  in  a 
way  tlial  iravrs  it  liaiil  mnl  lliirk. 

Over  to  winilwai'il  wr  siiililril  a  sriiool 
nf  )inrpnisis,  irn  nf  llirin.  Tlicy  wiTi' 
inakitii;- a  sniiinl  cNaclly  likr  llir  ('nij:inr 
nf  a  sli'aniiinat  lilnw  iiisi  ..|V  strain.  Tlirir 
lnific  linilii's  cmni'  In  tin-  siirfiicr  alioiil 
cM'iy  half  niiniitc.  'I'licy  scrniril  In  he 
playin^r  with  or  cliasiiio-  rarli  nihri',  as, 
with  a  rir<nli:r  swnnp,  Ihcy  rnsc  iwn  nr 
tliii'i'  fri'l  altovi'  till'  walcraiiil  thru  ilivcil 
ilnwn  aL^aiii.  l",;H'h  liiiir  thry  caiiii'  up 
tiny  wi'ir  iirarri'  In  iis,  jis  thry  wiTr 
cnininu;  liii'retly  Inwaiil  our  Imal.  Thr 
nu'ii  Inlil  nil'  In  shnot  next  tiiiii'  they 
wniihl  rise.  I'p  liny  canir.  four  of  them, 
but  not  in  the  jilacr  1  I'xprcti'ii. 

1  liriMJ,  mill  cniilil  Inai'  Ihr  hullt'l  ixo  ' 
"  pini:'"  into  lln'  fnri'iuo>.|  one.  lir  niailr 
a  luiirhly  luiuiilt  in  thr  witrr.  risinjr  his  I 
whnif  li'iiirlh  hiii'h  up  into  thr  air,  llirii,  I 
witli  a  lash  of  his  tail  that  luailc  llii'  | 
wati'r  hiss  and  fnain,  liisapprarcil  liciicath  j 
till'  sinfaci".  Till'  otlnrs  wrnt  down  also,  | 
and  uonr  of  tlii'iu  rainr   up  while  wi'  re-  I 


L' 


S2 


iMiiinc.l     (I,,,,.,, 


""•'    ''VL'-M     I         ''',""'■' ""'V  ^""." 


■'"'<   'ifirl  l„.  i,, 


III 
fore  i(. 


■'"«     s|. 


'  \.*  i;KSf 


"■■•' s:::l.,;V;f;!;:r' ;'■;"•■ ' 

"""      «"■'     ».<Tf..<(K.  -'",''1'    "f   Wat.r 

'"'"•<M,,. ,., 1,11,,:, "..'•. .^"■.'""1-    ri„.  s, 


"  >iM.|,r.  "    ""'.  "'ir|  Ml.,,  ,,„,)^ 

''■-'' '::.':;;.l:;;;;i:.;,^n;;!''';'v u..,. 

:^;;'''''''^.'vo;n':;;;!;:::::;:;;:. ';:'''!' '''-'r 

''"  /""I'll.-.  n,i.,.,i  I.  '"  '""''  'l",,,,„.,| 
""■'"■""•  '""I  iri-l.,  1  ,['"".•"'"'•  '"'""• 
"•■'''•      'Hh    M.i,    i^  M,„,,,„.,, 

^'-'"''•■rv;,.,.:.,;;,;'   "••;■  w,.,,,,  ,,„„.' 

-7'"!  r-lMaHni,- n,|,  V        .  'I-'^' "••'''''' '• 
"''""-•'•^"fU.ri      ;..  '""'^"'I<  »'.  Ill- 


■"»    '■•miwli,, 


-'"'"•      I'Ikv    ,1,,,,.,    I  , "11(111.    Is  „„ 

■•'•■;; 'iv'-''i.'n-.  (•;::;'/  ;''"  •'"""•'•  h.,.,- 

.      '  !"■  hiliilcis  (■•,,, I,,  i       ', 
""l-n.iiv,.,,';'",'^  '""...  I ,,,„] 

--'••"•ifnf.l  |,i^  ,,,,„    ,"  '""'  '"'ire  1),,.  ,.|,„, 

•■"r"''-"'"'".s,.i  ..    iV;,!   ''""'i"v 

■"•"'    iT.Mkf.i.,    I.   f,  ,         .-^^  '  '""I  '■•■-''•.I  a 


'''••^'''••ii..in..; ',  ''''^'''^•••'•''''•s,),, 

'"•'•■•..I.  ''•"•""    ■■'M.I    ,.,H,ny„'.,H 

•■"^'''  m"':;;,:;;::;.'";'  ^^  '"■•••■  -  -.,..  u-<. 

'^    "V.J-   r,(»(.    (■    ,,,         """'"I     .,f     t|„.     S;,,,,,, 

^^'■'■^••'''^'■•vi.i.pr,,.  ,       '^'r'-'-'l-  M-a 
'      '    '^"-     •'■•"l'I>"s.i|„.r,, 


H3 


^iT^ 


^i 


i  1 


wtTf  iin  Ics'^  thiin  fifty  ill  siL'lit  :il  once  ' 
Cldsf  Id  iiH  aritsc  llircf,  Aizaiii  llir  liiiii 
I. MS  tdlil  IMC  Id  sliddi  al  llif  iicM  liNcwhilt 
llii'V  silcnlly  (li'dppi'il  iiitd  u  <'aiidc  anil  a> 
silently  padilliil  tnil  asliTii  Willi  a 
wliddfl  wliddl'I  wliodfl  Ilircr  while  disc- 
eallli'  Id  llie  slIllMee.  I  IddU  (ielilierale 
aim  at  a  spot  lieliind  I  lie  Iin  of  tnie  ol 
lllelli  ami  tireil.  Tlllee  pdipdi-e-i  (|e- 
srenileil  iiiln  I  lie  ilepi  lis.  I  llidllL'lil  I  Innl 
liiisseil,  hill  cdiilil  iidl  iinilerstainl  w  liy. 

II.MM'ddMMi    A     I'dlM'dl'-i;. 

'I'wd  paddles  Lrleaiiied  in  I  he  water  ;  I  he 
caiide  slidl  alie;id  100  yards  and  then 
sidpped.  'I'lie  man  in  the  hdW  sei/.eil  lii- 
riisly  harpddii  in  his  ii'j:lii  hand  and  in  lii> 
h't'l  Lrra>ped  a  edil  of,  perliap-.  titty  feel 
df  I'dpe,  and  fnr  a  indnieiit  >td(ii|  like  ii 
statue  in  the  hdw  df  the  caiiMe.  Then, 
with  all  Ihe  ini|ieliis  llial  his  xlreii'.Mli 
cdiild  iri\e  it.  he  tliinir  the  harpddn  iiild 
the  water.  ,\s  he  did  sn  his  edinpaiildii 
liea\eil  dVerhdai'd  the  lilcicU  of  Wdod, 
ardiinii  which  Ihe  i(>|ie  altaeind  Id  the  liai- 
pddii  was  foiled  The  rope  di-<appeareil 
and  the  hlneU  Willi  under,  (p  it  came 
aiiiiin.  and  then  went  ddw  n  with  a  rush. 
In  live  minutes  it  went  a  mile;  then  it 
i|iiietly  lldated  dn  the  siiifaee  df  the  water 
We  >aile(l  ll|(  tdthespdl;  the  lildck  Wii-- 
tliidwn  dii  lidard  and  the  rdpe  wax  hauled 
ill  until  the  L^'eat  while  carcass  df  the 
pdl'pdise  lldated  dll  the  surface  a^leill. 

I  was  sali-ilied,  and  we  started  fdr  the 
liarhdr,  tdwinu  Ihe  pdrpdise  with  us.  <  >.i 
Ihe  way  we  shut  a  haliy  purpdise.  It  wa» 
less  than  a  year  old  ami  df  a  lirow  n  cdior. 
They  dd  mil  lieedine  w  liile  until  after  they 
are  1')  nr  IHnidiitlisdId.  The  nidther  suck- 
les her  \dunir  until  it  is  ainidxl  twd  year- 
did.  It  was  estimaledlhal  the  la r'.'e  pdl'- 
pdise that  I  shot  would  weiudi  iriOOpdumi> 
and  would  priidiice  nearly  100  jinlldiis  ot 
dil.wiirth  lifly  eeiil>  a  irallini  here.  The  fat 
is  alidiil  four  inches  thick  all  fdiind  just 
under  Ihe  skin.  The  skin  makes  ;:ddd 
leather  and  is  worth  f^Ct 

From  a  cirieulalion  iif  these  liirnri's  ymi 
•  •an  see  thai  pdr|idise  hunlinir  iniirhl  be 
made  a  very  prolitalilc  piirsiiif.  Mdsi  ol 
tlidse  wild  1111111  Ihem  herearelazy.  When 
they  kill  a  piiipdisc  they  do  iidt  wiiru  any 
more  until  the  prdceeils  of  the  sale  is  ex- 
hausted. They  diily  iro  "  porpusin  "  w  Inn 
thev  need  fddd  dr  inoiiev.     The  two  liuii- 


tel> 


S    Wild    w 


ent   with    uw    veslirdav  have 


killeil  ciiriitfi'ii  this  seasim 


H4 


THE  DREARY  SAGUENAY. 


A  Monotain  Crack  Tbree  Tboosand 
Feet  Deep. 


Ninety  Milei  of  Deaolatlon-An  Ac- 
complished Liar  of  the  Olden  Time 
-The  Adventurous  Pioneers  — 
Canadian  and  Texan  Piety 
Contrasted. 


Imnpinc  a  Rrcsif  stretch  of  granite 
niDuntaiiis,  riven  asunder  by  some  im- 
mense force  in  the  time  wiien  this 
scarred  and  battered  old  world  of  ours 
was  young,  their  walls  thrown  from 
one  to  two  miles  apart,  forming  a 
mighty  fissure  of  from  two  tlious- 
and  to  three  tiiousand  feet  in  depth, 
and  ninety  miles  In  length.  Then 
imagine,  at  tlie  bottom  of  this  tremen- 
dous  ciiasm,  a  mass  of  flowing  water 
more  than  si.x  hundred  feel  in  depth, 
and  you  liave  the  Saguenay  river, 
which  rises  in  LakcSt.  John  aUd  flows 
ir'^  the  Ht.  Lawiencc,  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  below  Quebec.  Hut  no 
imagination  can  picture  such  a  weird 
and  sombre  thing  as  it  is.  It  must  i)e 
seen  and  its  dis'.ial  inllucncc  fell ;  it 
must  be  looked  down  upon  from  the 
crags  above,  and  then  sailed  upon,  l)e- 
forc  one  can  appreciate  or  understand 
Its  utter  desolalcnc.ss. 

We  sailed  up  this  extraordinary 
stream  Ihe  other  day,  as  far  tis  a  settle- 
ment called  Chico-.itimi.  niinly  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  ir.  all  that  distance 


-dM-^^'4^^^"-- 


•v/'  "!H>SxKia>,    ,  .    ,:  ,i'^.'/fV'  •„'[!'  ,'v.«r;'"T' 


«-«i^»*?&«ABUife«? 


?  I 


r..t 


0i^^ 


'i.^ 


N 


C^li0 


i.^ 


G) 


mil  a  liviii^^  tliiiij?  did  wc  SfC,  rxcopl  ii 
sdlilaiy  I  liven. 

Its  wutt'iH  me  of  i\  diirk  limwn  color, 
ll  liiirt  no  slii'lvinit  .sliortH,  lint  inslciid, 
gnut  niiiHscs  of  rock  in  iniiiiy  piiictH 
M'VCMlci'n  liMiidivd  ftcl  lii)^li— rise 
Hlriiii;lil.  nj)  from  Hie  water's  oiltje. 
TliiTe  i^*  no  iinriiorage  in  Hie  whole 
streleli  of  tlie  river,  exeejil  in  one  place, 
liiiieil  I  la  lla  l>iiy.  Tlie  l.irijjest  8liip  in 
Hie  world  eoiiid  sail  aloiif;  within  ii  rod 
of  Hie  precipice  on  either  side.  In 
crevices  far  np  the  naked  walls  j^row 
slimtciHir  trees.  Il  is  no  wonder  that 
the  ancieiil  niiirincrs  spoke  of  the 
(gloomy  entrance  <>i  thi.s  river  as  the 
liorlals  of  hell.  It  is  u  chaotic  iiij^ht- 
iiiare  of  Lrlooiu  and  desolation,  of  stern 
and  naked  nx'ks,  of  trownin;^  jneci- 
cipiccs,  dailv  snilcn  waters,  and  soinhri' 
shadows.  Compared  with  il.  I  lan  im- 
ai;iiic  the  Styx  to  he  a  cheerful, sportive 
stream.  Kveii  with  the  lirit;hl  sun  of  a 
cloudless  summer  day  sliiiiiii|j  down 
upon  us,  we  (>\i>erii  need  a  shiveriit't 
Il  I  liiur.  and  we  sailed  o'lt  into  the  mid- 
dle of  Hie  stream  as  far 
shadows  of  the  sav 
clilTs  as  ])ossilile.  It 
of  relief,  as  if  awiikimx  from  an  uijly 
dream,  tli.'il  we  passed  o\it  of  the  river's 
montli  into  the  mop' checrtul  waters  of 
the  St.  Ijawrence. 

The  people  who  live  near  the  Sni^uc- 
nay  and  those  who  visit  it  and  write 
ahout  it.  are  prone  to  exairt^erale  the 
hei^lit  of  its  elilTs  anil  de|)lh(^.of  it.s 
waicrs.  If  it  was  necessary  Uxstrnin  a 
point  and  lie  ahout  il,  1  think  I  should 
lie  e((\ial  to  11 
need  to  do  that 
sounds  strange  cn^^ly^^ 

A   IMOS^K    I.UK^(i^ 

Old  Jacques  earlier,  who  visit c(rt"IiT! 
Sagiionay  in  iriS'Ti,  was  the  first  exapger- 
iitor  who  wrote  of  the  place.  Among 
oUjcr  things,  he  saiil :  "In  ascending 
the  Sagiienay,  you  reach  a  country 
whtro  there  are  men  dressed  like  us, who 
live  in  cities,  and  have  much  gold, 
rubies  and  copper."  Think  of  the  ad- 
vantage that  a  sixteenth  century  liar, 
■  like  Cartier,  had  over  one  liko  you  or 
M  me,  for  instance.  In  writing  of  the 
~^  river,  I  have  to  confine  myself  to 
rocks,  and  water,  and  great  wastes 
of  uninhabited  atmosphere.  If  I 
should  throw  in  a  ruby  mine,  or  a 
mermaid,  or  a  cave  filled  with    treas- 


A?'     'I 

1  O'lt  into  the  mill-  \*^.      a 

far  from  the  chilly  /" 

vage    overhuiming  f^,''^' 

was  with  a  fceliui;  /",/  '  '/^ 

A- 


.bout  It,  I  thinli  1  should 
le  task  ;  bptlthere  is  no 
it— the  trmlirreLrarding  il 


^ 


tmiiist      wIjm     Iim'I      licci 


liri's,      HMiiif 
I  llicii'      W'liilrl       |.i       ll^r       Ihr 
I  nf     the     cililiif     111'     till'     I'l-oxlii/     Cull 


1 
illlL'll.'IL'l' 


r/,i 


>il     (liiwn 


II- 
w     iik;    ill 


tlillliiirr  Inliiw,"  ami  <'.\|iu><i'  my  iiH-il- 
(liicily.  CiiiluT  Win  llif  llisl  In  visit 
tlii-  irL'inii,  iind  111'  liinl  ii'i  r<'ii«'>n  to 
lliliik   Uiiil  niiv  cilici  l>)iiil-l  xMiuld  vis. 


il    fur  iiiiiiiN    vcai> 


1 1 


|iri)li:ilily 


iikIi'iI  liy  Ills  ('i)iitciii|i<inirii'S  mihI  comi- 

IIHIlllij    1.11,    Unit,    IllllllHI'.'ll     III'     SMlHI.fa 


fniL 


ill    (|i4|iii>4iiii>ii    aiM 


I    II- 


ilallv   ii|)|iia' 


IiiImIi'iI  aii\  iIiiml!  "f  vnl'ii-  in-  C'HiIiI  DikI 
ill  till'  NliaiiL'i'  liiinN  III'  visjlnl,  III'  hiili'd  ' 
to  lilili'/    l);icl<    t'>    l'"ia'i('i'    any     nf   llic,  ' 
J^'iiil  Mini    lilliic-*  lit' till'  SaL'iK'liay.      IJill 
\\f  iim^t,  lint    ill'    Imm   Ii;ii'i|   (ill  Cai'licr 

In    llii'ir  ilav 
I'     nf     Ilii'     Olil      Wmlil    were 


ami  llif  carU'   rxiiimi- 
III 


If      |ICip|i 

iraily  I'l  licliivc  aii\  iimrvi  Inim  lair 
iciraiiliiiir  liiiliiilo  iim\!(|iiiii|  ii','i'iiis. 
'I'Ihv  (IhI  mmI  kiH.u  tlial  llic  laws  nf 
iialiiri'  thai  nili'il  in  lliiir  nwii  IiiimIh 
wniiM  iiicissarily  In-  tlu'  '•ainr  in  ntlicr 
ami  iiini'i!  iljstaiit  jaiuls,  ami  tlii'y  snal- 
Inwctl  simiis  nf  yiaiils,  ami  LM'itliiis, 
ami  mil'  ('\ii|  inrii    that   tln"-<'  travi'lcrs 


lillHil     In    \\:\\t 


-It'll,    anil    a-lsi'i 


I    fnl 


liinli'.  Il  i-^  a  pliasiiii'  Im  imii-I  |iiii|i|t' 
In  ivciir  uniiilcr  in  111!'  iiiimls  of 
niJK  I -,  ami  In  III' ili<!  lii-i  In  II  II  a  Mir- 
liii-iii^f  lair  nf  lliiim-;  cxlianiriinary. 
Snail  tlic  i-ailv  riavi^'alnrs  \\f]A  ilu'ir 
iiiiaL'iiHiiinii-;  vliailily  iil  work,  six  ilay-* 
II   wci  k.    ami  iimiI  so   jillii-  tnitli    that 


il,  is  a   unmlir  lln'ic    is  imt   n 
left    in   llii'   wniM   iM-ilav. 


Til 


Tl 


II'  iiilMiil  niMiis  s;iiiil   ami   rniiiaL'i 


if  the   liirn    uhn,  cint  in  jcs  ti 'n. 


nlni 


1)11    iiiiknii\\ii    SIMS     in    sea 


nil    nf 


VVnilil^,  ania/r  nil'.       Ifthrli'    Wire   allV 


woriiis 


fl,      fnr      iw.     I' 


I     ill-cnvi-r,     we 


Wnlllil  H'l)   III    linn    slifiliHIs,  aiM 


I    CI 


l.jny 


(•(iiiil'nri,  liiMiry  ami  safily.  ISnt  llmsc 
iiu'Ii  saili'il  in  sliips,  sniiii'  nf  wliicli 
Wire  lint  over  twenty  li  ns  Imitii'ii, 
sailfd  witliniit  f'liarls,  nr  cMiiicd  milk, 
(>r  cii'cliic  hair  hni>lir<.  nr  a  Mnnkiinj 
I'nniii,  or  any  nnc  \Uin  wniild  play 
poki'f  or  lilt  on  daily  ri:n  nl  iln'  ship 
in  fail,  wiihniit  any  nf  liic  mnilirii 
cnmfnrls  nf  ncraii  travel:  liiif  they  kept 
1)11  (li.scoveriii'j;  ns,  nil  over  this  ennti- 
iieiit,  even  when  sniiictiiiies  llrey  had 
to  wmk  Sniidays.  and  ^ro  fnr  days  wiih- 
niit Innd.  and  stand  \iati'lie.s  to  keep 
llie    sail'  IS    frniii     Inmhiii^    niT    earh 


nllier, 


I    reallv   tl 


till  V    deserved 


('.edit  fnr  this,  especially  w  lieil  we  cnii- 
sidiillial  wlii'ii  liny  i^nl  thrniiLdi  a  jnh 


(if  di^ei'vei'in^.  ami  went  lion 


tml  n 


ported  In  Hie  kiinrs  who  owned  ihem, 
they  were  snmetiines  put  in  prison,  or 
had  their  lieud.s  ainpiitated. 


■p*rl»-«%>^  **^i-  ."  ■  1  mi»,   '•«., 


Tlir    |i;i-.t    ii    nil    rL'lii,    ;iii<l  if  il    U 
^  iKil   I  coiijii  not  lii'l|>  II.     I  Hunk  it  is 

I  II  i^uiiij  llijhi;  tliiit  \M)  liiivi'  II  piiMt. 
Xi>  mini  hlmnlil  lie  wiiliotit  oni-  (uir 
lll.'lt  III'  run  liMiU  liiK'k  Id  Willi  pli'ilH. 
HIT  anil  wiilimit  u  iji.siif  |o  n-^siinii;  ii 
iiniii    ill'  |iliitiii'.     Dill     It   is  llii-    |iri's. 

(lit    tll:it    illtilfSt>l    nir     lliust.       Ili>turif 

iiii'iiiiii'ii  "4  liiiiiL.'in.;  iiioiiihI  a  plarc  iId 
imt  niiiki'  llir  cniVi'c  at  IIh-  Imiil  iiii\ 
IcsA  ^;rilty,  :iiiil  tlicv  uflcii  aiM  In  tin- 
allinlllll  nf  till'  lull,  'liiiir  |ia»t  \V<' 
can  lalk  nl';  llinr  In  iniiii'  wi*  can 
liiipr  fur,  liiii  it  is  mily  in  linn-  prcH 
(•III  lliat  \vc  can  ik  t.  Yc",  il  is  well, 
alhl  piriisaiit  |o(i.  lo  llijnk  nf  llic  pilsl, 
mill  wniiiti'l'  :it  llii>  lliill'^s  iliiiii'  ill  llli' 
ilavM  that  all'  •^nni'.  Iiiit  llii'  iiin>t  of 
my  plrasiiit'  is  in  nli^civiin,'  ami  H<iiily- 
imr  liii\v  llic  mail  wmlil  v.iu's  |i>-iluy. 
I  woiilij  ratliir  watili  ilic  cDiiirily  ut 
the  piixiit  lliiiii  iiiisi!  iiriiiiinl  pariliiii 
llii'  cxpics-ivi'  ('Xprcssiiiii  amniijr  llic 
mililcwiil  liMiii'siil  till'  iraL'i'ilii'.s  ipf  llic 
past. 

Itrfurc   I   Inaiuli  nil'    trniii    this  miIc 
jcct,   linw  I'vir,    1    wiiiiiil    call    yidif  at- 

li'lllinll     to     h>>\\      tlli'V     llDlliit'     hist. llir 

spills  ill  ( 'anaila.  Tlicic  arc  a  u'lcat 
many  of  Ihc^c  spnts,  anil  tliiic  is  a 
'  cliiiri'li  liiiilt  nil  iilmiiot  ( M'ly  mic  i>\ 
I  thi'iii.  'I'liiy  arc  cnclcij  where  caily 
'  ilisciivci'ci's  iiiiil  |iiiiiicci's  lamlcil  -  and 
I  tiii'V  sccni  to  liiivc  kept  mi  lanilini;  nil 
over  the  coiinlry  when'  iiii\  of  them 
I  (liciL  \>'lici'e  saints  appcMieil  in  vision: 
i  wlicie  the  faithful  were  saveil  t'loni 
I  ilaiifjci'  after  Miwim^  lo  ctccl  ii  slniiic 
I  iDtlicir  special  saint.      I  coiild  nut  liml 

II  place  worthy  of  liein^  mentioncil  in 
history,  where  a  chiinh  ilms  not.  now 
slam!.  Itolicrval  is  the  only  important' 
Cjinailiaii  pioneer  not  thus  honoicij, 
Imt  us  III!  was  lost  in  the  S.'iniicmiy. 
in  over  one  Immltcil  fathoms  of  water, 
ami  lis  no  one  kiiows  ihc  spot    lie  liail 


no  chance 


1  thi 


Ilk  this  cliiircli  III 


lilil- 

ICt- 


iii,<;  ail  CM  rlieiii  iliiii:^',  ami  much 
lertliaii  the  way  they  mark  such  placis 
in  Texas.  San  Antonio  is  so  full  of 
historic  sjiots  that  if  they  were  all 
put  ilowii  on  a  map  of  ilic  city  il 
woiilil  iiii>k  like  Ihc  skin  of  ii  Icopanl. 
There  Ihcy  laiilil  htiloons  over  Ihc  sjiots, 
anil    when     yoii     want    to    sci;  one  of 


llieiii   the   hark 


has  lo  lift  II  liccr 


kcij  oil'  the  liallowi'il  spot  wheie  some 
gooil  Ji'siiii  fallicr  (licil.  full  of  Imlian 
arrows,  in  the  scveiiicenih  century; 
or  lake  \ou  lu'himl  the  coimler,  hack 
of  the  ice  client,  that  \  oil  may  licholil 
the  spot  where  (Jeiieral  Siiiita  Anna 
committeil    some    airocimis    deeii.      Il 


f 


SMIl-   OK   blXTErNTIl   CE.STt'RV. 


J 


/ 


i 


^^^P' 


hfts  hm-ii  jisstrtcd  that  saloon  k.-cpurs 
Hclccl  llitsi-  pliici's  |)fruu.se  tlit-y  uUrart 


nnlKiuariiiiis  and  otliiT  Nacred  spot 
hiinltrs,  wlio  inridfiitallv  purclins.' 
Iner.     Of  iliu  Jnitli  of  this,    I   know 

Talking  about  opots,  you  must  think 
that  Ihf  Cliainpiaiu  has  not  chaiii'c*! 
hir  spots  inurh  during  th(:  last  wo.-k 
or  two,  as  wu  nro  Htill  writing  about 
Cjucbc'c  and  tlic  Sncuenay.     It  would. 


K    . 


hrtwovur,  be  a  mistake  to  think  so.  We 
muiie  n  very  sudden  change  the  other 
niglit,  and  left  nn  !?18  anchor  and  1<»() 
fci'l  of  cable  to  mark  the  spot.  Wo 
didn't  want  to  leave  cither  the  anchor 
or  the  spot,  but  a  Cnnadian  pale  de- 
monstrated in  about  two  minutes  that 


it  would  be  best  for  us  to  sever  our 
connection  with  the  anchor  by  means 
of  a  sharp  axe,  and  accompany  it  down 
the  river.  It  escorted  us  more  than 
100  miles,  tmtil  we  gave  it  tlie  slip  iu 
a  sheltered  bay  on  the  Labrador  coast, 
and   it  went  howling  along  iu  the  di- 


rection   of    "Greenland's   ley    moun- 
tains." 

I  shall  tell  you  more  of  tins  in  my 
next  letter.  I  would  do  so  now  biit  I 
must  maii  this  letter  at  once,  or  it  will 
not  get  away  from  this  place  for  two 
weeks.  A  .sore-backed  horse  who  car- 
ries the  mail  somewiiero  in  the  d.rec- 
lion  of  the  United  States,  is  just  now 
waiting  for  it,  and  is  patiently  stand- 
mg  on  the  beach  chewing  seaweed 
while  I  write  these  closing  lines. 


^X^^-^^ 


89 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^^ 


// 


A 


Si 


» 
^ 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


■-li^  IIM 

KS  1^    1 2.2 

^  lifi   lllllio 


1.8 


_L4    IIIIII.6 


V] 


<^ 


/i 


^a 


em  4ji  J 


/ 


'/ 


M 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.V.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


ir'  : 


i  I 


1    I 


I,    I 


V 


•-*; 


KNOX'S  LOST  MANUSCRIPT. 


HOW  IT  WAS  LOST  AND  FOUND 


COLUMBUS  COULDN'T  FIND 
HIS  TOBACCO,     y*  ./ 


STORY    ABOUT    A    BANSHEE-A*' 
STORM    GOING  DOWN  WITH  '  ^ 
THE  SHIP. 


t:^^ 


Did  yoti  ever  wrilc  soiiiclliinjj  and  lose 
tlic  iiiiiiuiscript,  ■•iiid  Iniiit  for-  ii  in  nil 
sorts  (if  jirohahlc  and  iiniirohahlc  ])]accs; 
iiiid,  t'ailini:  to  liiid  it,  sit  down  an(l  try  to 
i-c\vrit<'  from  nicniory  what  you  liad  writ- 
ten  hcfort'.  If  .so,  you  doidttlcss  found  it 
a  liard  task,  and  jiroliahly  n-avc  it  uj),  prc- 
fcrrinu:  '">  write  on  a  new  subject. 

I  lost  a  inanusc  ript  when  on  a  cruise  on 
the  lower  St.  Lawrence;  [never  tried  to 
rewrite  it.  iiul  today  I  found  it,  or  rather 
if  came  hack  to  lue  after  it  had  traveled 
many  thousand  miles  l)y  laml  and  sea, 
and  had  passed  tiu'ouirh  many  climes  and 
countries.  'IMic  followiuLC  letter  will  ex- 
plain how  it  was  lost  and  how  it  returned 
to  ine  : 

on  tlie  liark  Kiretly 

lioiiiinl  Sur  Kdi'iK-l  imx  i  se!i(l  you  bytliismalo 
a  I'll  ^h('('ts  of  litiiii;  wicli  I'.i'Ioml's  to  you  its  uu 
I's  too  nil'  iV  i  li.iv  liecM  a  loii;;  ways  scii.-e  i  se  ii 
you  i  sliippt'd  to  lialit'iix  it  tlionliail  a  lielava 
tiiMi  "liiiH:  to  Itristol  eiiL'laiid  .V  then  i  <'ani('  to 
tiviM'iKiol  \-  licar  i  ani  iu  a  i)la<-e  laulcil  ^Msi'i'is 
in  tli(^  .Meilitun-iin  on  a  liavk  with  a  Keiual  ('ar^o 
«V  Fat  oC  I'atsiV;  tlio  Capiiiia  fullcinajroos  awl  tlie 
lime  iV' s wares  most  olTul  the  Feed  is  no  jrood  A 
I  i  am  sirk  of  liavintr  itiy  >isteMi  Jaiud  full  of  ISoeus 
I  awl  tJie  tiiiic  wislii  ii;iil  Sum  of  tlic  jriul)  we  tiail 
I  on  th(!  yot  oi  Ihe  Sain'  lawreni'c  will  you  ever 
foru'it  tlie  l)loolicry  jiy  liduord  sur  wicli  it  was  in 
the  t  lie  of  the  emit  yoii  yive  me  it  ill  lieliilie  tin 
the  liiiiii:;  i  lipjied  ye.-terday  i  Kouud  tlie  paliers 
llie  ar  sum  you  werKoiuu  to  init  in  a  iSook  i 
think  i  I'ite  till-:  too  you  witli  my  resnex  iV  tlie 
t'Miitaiii  will  put  yiire'  adres  on  this  iV  male  it  tor 
me  at  naptds  wher  weer  y<iin:j 

no  more  at  present  from  vour 
obedient  respexttuliy 

.lolin  Maddux  able  seaman 

that  was  a  Devil  of  a  trip  we  liad  on  tlie  Cliam- 
))liiiii  lint  if  ever  you  eroose  any  more  i  would 
like  to  work  for  you  i  never  will  forj,dt  that  py 

The   Lost   Manuscript. 

We  lie  becalmed  ofT  Cape  Chatfe,  on  flie 
St.  Lawrence.  The  distance  to  eillier 
shore  is  15  miles.  The  water  till  around 
is  perfectly  smooth.     The  sky  tind  clouds 


no 


,u  its  no 
i-c  i  sc  n 

v.ww  to  1 

|oiUinc< 
.  awltbo 

of  lU'i'Ils  j 
I,  we  \iiui  I 
Ivoii  evci 
'it  w.is  in  I 
■bin*' '!"' 

a  liii"l<  ' 

iiilo  it  lor 


i  spanian 
lio  Ciiiiin- 

I,,  i  WDUlll 

Itliat  py 


on  11>i' 
I)   I'ithiT 

arouinl  I 

|l    C'lo\l(^- 


"I 


an-  roflcf'tcd  frcnn  its  siirfiicc.  or  ra'licr 
sci'in  to  1)1'  (liipliciitcd  in  the  (lci)t;is  liciou . 
The  Fun  siiiiirs  wilii  u  jilca>;iiit  iiiitiiiiin 
Wiirmtli,  iiiiij  the  vaclit  iloals  on  an  even 
I<e(l  with  ;50  falliiiMis  of  cold,  (lamp  water 
lieiow  her.  Tlie  waters  seem  to  i)e  aslee|) 
iiiid  forgetful  of  their  eourse  toward  the 
sea  A  hiize  partially  veils  the  shore  and 
inagnities  and  distorts  distant  olijeets  so 
that  11  schooner  two  miles  away  looks  as 
large  as  u  frigate,  and  seems  to  tloat 
among  tin'  elonds. 

AWity  beyond  the  mountains  waiting 
winds  may  blow,  and  out  in  Kansas  rol- 
licking breezes  may  be  playing  with  the 
straw  liaf  of  our  fel'h w  man"  and  whi'liuir 
sand  and  cinders  iiito  his  eyes:  but,  in  all 
these  leagues  of  water  around  us,  there  is 
not  as  nunli  moving  air  as  would  make  a 
lover's  sigh  or  tloat  ii  thistle  down.  The 
sails  are  motionless,  :ind  the  stars  ;ind 
stripes  at  the  masthead  hang  in  lini]),  de- 
jected folds.  Over  yomler  a  ]iair  of  se.-ils 
tloat  ;isleep  on  the  surface.  Here  :unl  there 
a  tish  leaps,  and  from  tlies])ot  radiates  a 
liny  w.'ive  that  broadens  ;uid  spreads  far 
and  wide,  ami  we  can  lu'ar  faintlv  the 
sound  of  a,  church  in  some  distant  hamlet 
on  the  shore.  There  is  iH)thinir  else  lie- 
yond  the  yacht  to  tell  us  that  the  world  is 
not  dead  oi-  aslcej). 

I  have  been  on  the  ]ilains  when  iK)t  a 
blade  of  grass  moved,  ami  in  the  woods 
wIhmi  the  leaves  on  all  the  trees  were 
motionless,  I)ut,  insect,  bird  ami  beast 
abounded,  and  there  was  not  such  still- 
ness and  sus])ension  of  motion  there  rs 
we  e.vperience  here. 

I  lean  over  the  rail,  look  down  into  the 
water  and  indulge  in  thouirht.  Indul^inir 
in  thought  is  my  onlv  dissipiition  when 
yachting.  I  think  of'ColiMnbus  when  he 
canu'  across  the  scis  and  was  impatient 
lo  discoverus.  Ilowheniust  liavefrelted 
;uid  chalTed  during  those  hnig  davs  when 
he  was  becalmed  and  tiu'  sailors  were  mu- 
tinous, fuid  he  had  to  hold  his  salt  jioik  in 
his  tinger.s  because  forks  were  not  then  in 
vented;  and  when  much  woriied  over  all 
this  he  went  bi'low  to  soothe  his  mind 
with  asmoke,  and  couldn't  find  his  smo- 
king tol)acco,  how  mad  it  must  have  made 
'nm  to  suddenly  remember  that  tobacco 
liiid  not  yet  been  discovered. 

We  throw  a  block  of  wood  overboard 
••unl  shoot  at  it,  but  it  does  not  tloat  far 
I'miugh  away  to  make  the  shooting  inter- 
esting. Then  we  sit  on  the  (piarter  deck 
•■ind  smoke,  and  the  ski|»per  tells  a  story 
"t  blood  curdHng  soutuls  that  break  the 


f stillness  of  the  woods  at  night,  how  a 
leer  can  be  heard  ID  miles  olV  making  its 
way  to  water  thrinigh  a  ttimariu;  swamp, 
and  how  the  sound  of  a  pjinther  suckling 
her  young  is  audible  at  a  distance  of  jnn 
let  that  pass,  in  a  calm  like  this  a  man 
is  excusable  for  anytliiiiir,  ami  any  yarn  • 
to  relieve  the  moinilony  is  clieerfiiily  and 
unipiestioindily  accepted. 

Our  pilot,  who  sits  at  the  helm  eating 
|)lug  tobacco,  is  remindeil  by  the  skip- 
per's story  of  a  piece  of  his  e.irly  expe- 
rience. I  le  breaks  the  |)ie<'e  oil"  :ind  gi\'es 
it  to  us  in  I  hat  matter  of  f.icl  w.iy  that  men 
have  who  go  down  |o  the  ^e.i  in  ships, 
lb' says  thai  he  shijipcd  bi  fore  the  m.ist 
and  sailed  from  (Quebec  to  i,i\erpool. 
They  left  (Quebec  in  a  gale,  and  the  storm 
lasted  throughout  the  vo\,ige.  The  cook 
could  not  light  the  g.illey  tires,  and  our 
pilot  lived  on  hard  tack  and  animate  pork 
all  the  time,  ami  for  'y.)  days  worked  and 
swMH'c  and  slept  in  wet  cloijirs.  He  wore 
two  ]i;ur  of  trousers,  ami  w  hen  he  arrived 
in  Livci'iool  h;id  to  scrape  I  he  blue  mould 

nil"  his  iii>i(lc  t  rini--ers  and   his    Iilts.    It  is 
now  my  lurn.  and  1  lell  an  i  l.iboiali'  | 

Story   about   a   Banshee 

,  IhiU  belonged  to  our  f,imil\  in  irelaml  fori 

live  generations,      ll  had  .always  been  one 

]  of  those  w  ild  kind  of  banshees  until  1  look 

'  it  ill  hand,  and    inside  a  month    had  it  so 

t;ime  tli.al  it  would    follow  me  all    ar(Hiiid 

and  lick  salt  out  id"  my  hand. 

A  l.ir'.;-e  lake  of  corn  bread  is  presented 
to  me  w  hen  I  conclude  my  narr.ilive.  Then 
the  artist  begins:  ••  1  once  went  tishing  ^ 
with  a  party.  It  w:is  jusi  ;it  this  lime  of 
year.  We  didn't  take  ,a  drop  of  anything 
t>  drink  w  illi  us     "  j 

.\l  this  point  the  cake  i--  taken  from  me 
and  h.'iniled  to  the  artist,  and  then   we  .all 
go  below  to  sleep,  exei'pl  the  skippi  r  who 
s:iys  that  this  is  a  ii'ood  d.iy  to  boil  beans,  ' 
and  lie  starts  to  boil  a  jiol  full.   His  weak- ; 
ne-s  is  beans,  w  hicli  hi'  thinks  he  cm  <'ook  i 
belter  than  any  one.     I  cooked  the  beans 
the  last    time,  but    failed    to  let  lliem  boil 
lon^  e.iouih,  anil  the  skip])er  was  aiiLrry,  I 
mil  so  muchthat  the  beans  were  too  bard  I 
for  him  to  cat  but    that    the   crew  did  cat 
lliein,   and    that     when    they    afterwards  j 
moved  iii'otinil  on  dick  the  noise  i  h;it  the  | 
beans  made  as  they   rallied    logelher  an- 
noyed him.  I 
On  this  river  tin'  weather  is  very  v;;iia-  i 
ble.      IJidore   I   have  iieen  asleep  iui  hour  I 
1  am  awakened    by  the  rallliiigof    ro|>es.  | 


''; 


t  ■ 


.:-  i 


ni 


X 


%  1 


I : 


1  i    1' 


crcdkinir  Mocks  iiiul  hurried  tramp  of  feet 
ovcrlicad.  I  iiin  astonislicd  hccaiisc  L  licar 
no  sound  of  wind  or  wave.  (Joini;  above 
I  tind  tiie  western  sky  black  witli  liurry- 
inji  ciomls ;  a  wall  of  mist  and  white 
capped  waves  away  astern  ;  but  around 
about  us  is  sunshine,  and.  if  ])ossible,  a 
moi'(;  o])pressivc  calmness  than  before. 
Then  comes  the  sound  of  distant  tliun- 
der  from  behind  the  liills.  The  pilot 
dons  his  yellow  oilskin  and  takes  the 
helm,  and 

The  Crew   "  Stand  By." 

It  is  on  us  in  a  monu'iit,  and  as  tin  yacht 
bends  to  IIm'  ]n-vv/v.  a  twiliiiht  darkness 
succeeds  the  sunshine;  the  damp,  chill 
winu's  of  a  thick  uust  enfold  us,  and  in 
two  minutes  tlu!  water  is  boilini;:,  hissinu;, 
seethinu;  all  around;  and  altliouii'h  the 
yacht  is  now  carrying:;  nothinu;  ))ut  a  dou- 
ble reefed  foresail  slie  i^oi'S  laishinu;.  pluni;- 
inj^  throuiili  the  mad  waves  like  son\e 
livinii'  tliinu;  running  away  in  insane  ter- 
ror from  an  uid\nown  danj^er.  The  wind 
beconu's  stronger  every  moment  and 
j!;reat  banks  of  i)lack  clouds  come  scurry- 
inu:  ])ast,  miniilinj!;  toii'ether  and  massinii; 
theniselvi'S  one  on  top  of  the  other  as  they 
come.  The  waves  swash  and  suruc  alonj?  ; 
the  I'ail,  Hocks  of  foam  fly  ))ast  us,  ancl 
sjjray  dashes  in  our  faces  as  the  yacht 
lies  over  and  seems  to  take  flyini^  leaps 
from  wave  to  wave. 

1  i)ull  my  cap  over  my  cars,  and  hnld- 
inii'  on  to  the  cal)in  to]i  crawl  aft  to  where 
the  skijjper  stands.  I 

"  I  like  this,"  1  say.  "This  is  exhilar- 
atiuLC.  Now  this  is  what  I  call  yachting. 
Is  tills  what  you  would  designate  as  a 
gale,  or  is  it  merely  a  scpndl'/" 

He  takes  mo  by  the  lappcls  of  my  left 
ear  and  in 

A   Calm  Plan  ssimo   Voice 
whispers    so   tJiat   I  can    plainly  hear   it 
above  the  howling  of  the  wind  : 

"This  is  nothing  but   a  couple  of  Cana- 
dian  zephyrs   out   on   a   lark,  and  when 
they  come  out  it  is  a  good  time  for  inter- 
rogative  lunatics    from   the    States   who 
i  don't  know  danger  when  they  see  it,  to  go 
j  below  ami  say  their  prayers.     Why.  man, 
I  this  is  a  hurricane  ;  and  it  is  blowing  us 
I  out  into  the  (JulfofSt.  Lawrence  an(i  on 
I  to  the  Labrador  coast  at  the  rate  of  a  mile 
:  a  minute,    and   there's   only   one  harltor 
i  within  twenty  leagues.      (Jo   below    and 
take  a  bite  of  cheese  to  quiet  your  nerves. 
:  Don't  spare  it,  for  it's  likelv"the  last  that 


92 


J  xLLiuj-mmwi'.!^^'  - 


you'll  evor  wnip  a  looih  aiounil." 

I  liko  jokes  in  their  proper  jilnro,  but  a 
slipjiery  (juiirter  deek  does  not  seem  to  l)e 
a  good  spot  for  droppiii;;  fueetious  ri'- 
niiirks.  cspeeiiilly  wiienotie  liusto  liold  on 
like  tlnuKler  to  ii  ro;)e  to  keep  from  Iteing 
blown  outside  of  her  majesty's  dominions. 
We  sweep  i)ast  great  hatllemenis  of 
crags  and  elilTs,  but  nowhere  is  tiiere 
shelter.  The  wind  l)lows  more  tiereely 
every  moment,  and  seems  to  siiriidv  in 
savage  glee  as  we  toss  before  it — seems 
to  say:  "  Ifa,  ha  1  Vou  wanted  a  bree/e 
this  inorning.you  whistled  for  wind  didn't 
vou?  And  one  of  you  said  in  his  reek- 
less,  sinful  way  tl»at  he'd  be  damned  if 
lie  wouldn't  ratiier  be  in  a  storm  than  in 
ii  calm  any  day.  Well,  you  have  got  it, 
haven't  you  ?  And  how  do  you  like  tliis 
for  a  breeze  so  far?  What's  the  matter 
with  this  for  an  amateur  blow  ?  No  flies 
on  this  im])romplu  gale,  is  there?"  And 
it  goes  away  with  a  malevolent  roaring 
down  the  river,  scooping  up  great 
stretches  of  water  from  the  Avavi-  tops 
and  scattering  them  in  spray  high  up  on 
the  face  of  the  roek-bouml  coast  ;  and  on 
up  it  sju'cds  through  the  valleys  among 
the  hills  wiiere  it  doubtless  rattles  the 
windows,  whistles  through  the  keyholes, 
shakes  the  liouses  and  howls  down  the 
chimneys  of  the  pious  old  p^rench  lnd)i'- 
ants.  who-  cross  themselves  and  feel 
thankful  tiiat  they  are  under  shelter  in 
such  a  storm.  And  then  other  winds 
come  after  it,  and  howl  as  loudly  and 
derisively  as  they  pass  us  on  their  riot- 
ous way  and  sweej)  on  to  overtake  the 
other. 

(  The  pilot  sits  grindy  at  the  heln,.  gnaw- 
ing tobacco  and  issuing  oi'dersin  alioarse, 
dinu'-museum  voice,  -whih!  our  dinner 
service  of  tin  plate  can  be  Jieard  slosh- 
ing around  Itelow  and  anon  fetching  up 
with  a  crash  and  clamor  against  the  star- 
board bird'seye-maple  slop  biuikct.  I  stay 
on  deck  and  hold  on  to  the  shrouds. 

Going:  Down  with  the  Ship. 

T  am  determined  to  go  down  with  the 
shi])  if  she  goes  down,  and  the  more  I 
think  of  this  and  of  how  ditlicult  it  would 
be  to  do  anything  else,  the  more  deter- 
mined lam  to  go  down  with  lier,  but  I 
am  resolved  to  go  down  on  the  outside.  1 
do  not  wish  my  friends  to  read  of  me  be- 
ing dredged  up  out  of  the  cabin  where  my 
rennuns  would  be  found  ndxed  with  par- 
tially boiled  beans,  ham  boiu's  and  .tin 
ware.     I  am,   however,    not  borii  to    be 


(b'owned.  T  am  probably  preserved  bj'  the  [ 
fates  for  some  wise  reason  and  better  ]iur  ' 
])ose.  Destined,  it  may  be, to  make  money 
and  found  an  asylum  for  tin;  widows  anil  | 
orphans  of  idiots  who  go  yachting  on  the  I 
lower  St.  Lawrence.  ] 

{Jradually  tlie  winds  grow  less  and 
less  violent.  th(!  clouds  scatter,  the  demon 
of  th<^  storm  makes  one  last  etl'ort  to  beat 
and  batter  us  down,  and  now,  as  if  de- 
feated and  (lisa])pointe(l,  goes  moaning 
out  to  sea.  Tlu'  waves  subside  into  gi'cat 
swells  that  heave  and  sob  and  sullenly 
shake  their  white  crests  into  l)ubbles  and 
sf.'caks  of  foam.  The  moon  shines  nuirk- 
ily  from  Ixdiind  light,  lleecy  clouds  that 
drift  across  her  face.  The  north  star 
wipes  the  vapor  from  his  eye  and  winks 
down  on  us.  and  then  conu'  other  stars, 
and  that  great  one  low  down  on  the  horizon 
— that  is  a  lighthouse  ;  and  there  is  a  bay, 
and  shelter  and  anchoragi' there  ;  ami  as 
theyacht  sweei)s  ])rouilly  and  triumphant- 
ly into  the  bay,  with  the  stars  and  stripes 
ill  ribbons  at  lier  masthead,  and  the  ])hos- 
phoresceiit  water  dashing  from  '  "•  bows 
in  two  long  streaks  of  gleaming  ,^,lver,  1 
go  below,  and  as  a  (inisii  to  this,  my  inost 
eventful  day's  yachting,  roll  myself  iu  a 
wet  blanket  and  go  to  sleep. 

♦  1 


93 


li 


1 


f.      \: 


LOG  OF  THE  YACHT  CHAMPIAINI 


Col.  J.  Armoy  Knox  Bides  a 
Bucking  Broncho. 


The   Way   a    Yachtsman 
Got  Naturalized. 


A   Country  Wliere   Hades   Is 
All  Frozen  Over. 


Ik'low  the  Isliiiidof  Bif  the  srenoT-y 
oil  tlic  north  shore  of  tlic  f>t.  Law- 
reiK'c  is  as  (h'solati-  a  piece  of  tlie 
eartii's  siirt'aei'  as  ever  jiiiiiied  tlie  eye 
of  a  man  wiio  lilies  to  iooli  on  tiiiiijis 
tliat  are  pleasant,  hriirht  or  frnitful. 
It  is  the  same  all  the  way  down  to 
wliere  1  am  writinir  this,  on  a  roeky 
headland  on  the  borders  of  ''lonely 
Labrador." 

It  is  said  that  it  is  the  reliirions  lie- 
lief  of  some  tropical  savai^es  that  hell 
is  a  re,!j;ioii  of  snow  and  ice.  barren- 
ness and  desolation.  1  think  that  the 
man  who  orijjiniited  tliat  idea  of  the 
re;!;ionfl  of  torment  must  have  seen 
the  northern  shore  of  the  lower  St. 
liawrence.  at  least  in  a  vision,  and  if 
lii^  claimed  that  there  were  lower  ami 
more  dreadful  dejjths  in  the  place  of 
eternal  punishment,  he  must  have  had 
the  liabratlor  coast  in  his  mind's  eye. 
Tlie  scenery  down  to  the  moulu  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  comprises  great 
masses  of  rocks,  stunted  tirs,  rocks, 
dwarfed  birches,  rocks,  blueberries 
and  rocks.  Interspersed  with  these 
the  travellei  will  occasiouully  notice 
rocks 

The  monotony  of  this  cheerless 
shore  is  only  broken  by  a  lijihthouse 
here  and  there,  or  a  wooden  cross 
erected  to  mark  the  spot  where  the 
liodies  of  those  who  perished  in  some 
shipwreck  arc  laid.  It  is  pleasant 
enough  to  sail  along  such  a  coast  for 
a  thiy.  Its  wildness  is  new  to  you. 
The  novelty  of  its  barrenness  inter- 
ests you,  and  it  makes  you 

More  Plooiied  and  Satisfied 

than  you  ever  were  before  with  the 
place,  far  awa}',  that  you  call  home, 
even  if  you  do  live  in  Chicago.  It  is 
when  you  sail  along  for   a   distance 


04 


""■   s"i>ti.  shore  of  H,,.    river   i.  ., 
li.il.il     I    l,y  pcopl,.  who  live  |,v  •!    >iV 

w-.ther-vvor„    .Ll'tj::^^''''^;:;;' 
"u' weather:     I  do  not  l<„  n^  „h  . 

't   IS  now   in     V.en."t      t,    '  ''"" 

of  "-..users:  uTo/^S'n '";,;": ';;y'-^ 

""  CI,.  li„„.,|,„,       '•'"''"•'' ""I    I'low 
When  It  Does  Blow 

"lot  on:  nor  is  ittlw.iV,  "'  "'y'lunic 
''••iPPlooM  hiw!,  rill ''''*' "''!'^*'« 
athwart  the  moon's  „     .  f"   /-'/'"M'^^ 

;';>n-owed^;;;;;,,l:-;:i-;-;^;--a, 

NrtL!';;-.!;;':;^'"' •'^'^  ^'^ '''''^"• 

neither  does   it  <hdlv  uh      ,i      '''''I'- 
96 


I? 


- 

1^  f'i 

r  ■      r 

■' 

11 

'  il 

»' 

i 

I 

!       I 


roJ)nf<t  tempest  Mint  romcs  linwlinir 
slraiiilit  iicross  lotn,  rootiiiir  up  trees 
and  idowiiig  water  out  of  wells— sniiie- 
tliinji  tliat  eoiiies  sliriekiiiij:  up  tlie 
gulcti,  peelinirthe  hark  otT  tJie  unpro- 
tected lionse  doj;.  ]iiil]in<f  nj)  post-holes 
hy  tiie  roots  and  hiirlinir  liieir.  into  the 
next  school  district.  It  was.  such  a 
wind  as  this  that  hlew  us  down  here 
—a  wind  that  hciran  like  tlie  suhdued 
tone  of  a  liddle  heinL' tuned,  and  ended 
like  the  thnnderinj^  crash  of  a  whole 
hrazen  orchestra,  with  a  ca]li<t|te  he- 
hind  the  scenes  :  a  wind  that  suiTiicsted 
a  man  who  once  tried  to  collect  a  liill 
from  iiu'-  at  first  i)leasant  and  aj:;ree- 
ahle,  then  aninuued,  then  Itoisterous  ; 
at  last  clamorons,  noisy  and  al)usive. 
We  did  not  wish  to  come  so  far  with 
it.  hut  we  came 

I  cannot  ixet  en  rapjiort  ■with  these 
tisherfolks.  I  always  like  to  mingle 
with  the  ])e()ple  of  the  country  I  am 
visiting  In  my  youth  I  was  told  that 
I  should  do  at  Home  as  the  Honums 
(h).  and  I  usuidly  try  to  do  so  :  hut 
should  I  make  the  attempt  here,  1 
would  have  to 

Saturate  Myself  in  Codfish, 

talk  codfish,  eat  codlish.  smell  of  cod- 
fish, and  sing  "God  Save  theC^ueen" 
on  the  slightest  |irovocation.  So  1 
know  I  never  could  he  anything  hut  a 
tenderfoot  liere.  Now  it  was  diirerent 
in  Texas.  When  I  went  there.  I  got 
"acclimated"  hefore  I  was  in  the  State 
two  (hiys.  One  could  conform  to  hah- 
its.  customs  and  surroundings  tiu-re 
without  alTecling  one's  physical  com- 
fort or  knocking  the  hoo|)s  olT  one's 
conscience.  I  don't  think  I  ever  told 
you  ahout  how  I  hecamc  a  Texan  in 
two  minutes. 

Well,  this  would  he  ahout  as  good  a 
time  as  any  other  to  tell  it.  I  would 
much  rather  write  ahout  Texas  than 
ahout  this  ragged  and  hungry  looking 
country.  Wisli  I  was  on  tlie  back  of 
a  mustang  now.  out  on  the  western 
plains,  instead  of  sitting  liere  on  this 
iiard  rock  on  "  a  foreign  strand." 

When  I  first  went  to  Texas  I  was 
accompanied  hy  an  obtrusive  English 
accent  and  a  pair  of  speckled  trousers 
that  invited  harsh  criticism.  It  was 
at  a  place  called  Columbus  that  I 
made  my  debut  as  a  tenderfoot.  Be- 
side my  accent  and  the  ostentatious 
trousers,  I  carried  with  me  a  very 
high  estimate  of  myself,  and  I  consid- 
ered it  to  be  my  duty,  as  a  subject  of 


O 


9G 


<» 


Victoria  Dei  {^ratlii,  to  kl  tin-   hordes  I 

of  Texas  barbiuians  liiiow  tlial  I  was 

a  person  of  importance  | 

At  Coiuml)iis   1   wanted   to  ])uv   a  I 

liorse,  as  It  was  my  intcniioM  to  ride 

from   tiiat  place    to   tiiu  Uio  Grande. 

Wliile  sitting  on  tiic    veranda  of  tlie 

little   wot)Uen    liotel,    I    dropi)ed    my 

haughty  patrician   reserve  for  a  time 

and  conversed  wit li 

A  Number  of  Cowboys, 

who  were  stopping  at  the  place.   T  did 

not  hesitate  to  express  my   contempt 

for  the  Texas  horses  I  had   seen.     I 

made  facetious  remarks  regarding  the 

ungraceful   manner  in  which  Texans 

rode,  and  I  was  sarcastic  in  the  mat- 
ter of  the  Texas  saddle. 
In  Texas  fools  sometimes  rush   in 

where  desperadoes  fear  to  tread. 
The  cowboys  asked  me  what  was  the 

l)est  way  to  ride,   and   wliat  kind  of 

liorses  did  we  have  in  our  country.     I 

told  them  that  I  rode  with  a  long  stir- 

rup.  I  related  exploits  wherein  I  fig- 
ured as  winning  a  steeplecliase  across 
a  stiff  country  in  the  west  of  Ireland, 
and  I  told  of  some  horses  I  had  owned 
— phenomenal  horses,  with  pedigrees 
running  away  buck  into  the  dark  ages. 
Even  to  this  day  whenever  I  think  of 
what  an  ass  r  demonstrated  myself  to 
been  that  occasion,  I  make  an  effort  to 
blush. 

The  cowboys  seemed  to  take  all  I 
said  good-naturedly,  and  they  made  no 
comment.  The  head  cowboy,  how- 
ever,looked  tired,  and  asked  tile  others 
to  take  a  drink  He  invited  me  to  join 
them  When  we  arrived  at  the  bar  I 
said  I  would  take  a  glass  of  claret. 

"Jim, he  says  he'll  take  claret.  May- 
be he'd  like  it  in  a  silver  goblet,  with  a 
strawberry  or  an  oyster  "in  it,  as  he's 
accustomed  to  in  his  ancestral  castle  at 
home.  Oh,  he's  a  daisy,  I  tell  you. 
Barkeeper,  the  tenderfoot'll  take  some 
whiskey,  same  as  the  rest  of  us  I 
reckon'that's  what  he'll  take. 

A  small  still  voice  within  me  whis- 
pered that  whiskey  was  under  the  cir- 
cumstances, the  thing  for  me  to  take, 
and  I  took  it. 

"  Want  to  buy  a  horse,  you  say, 
eh  ?" 

"Yes,"  I  replied;    I  want  a  good 


97 


steady  horse." 

•'  Oh,  no,  you  wtiiit 

A  Bucking  Broncho, 

that's  what  ymi  want." 

"  What  i3  a  buckin<T  broncho?" 

'•Don't  know,  oh?" 

"No." 

"Then  that's  ee-kzactly  what  you 
want.    Ain't  it,  boys  ?  " 

Chorus  of  boys— "You  just  bet 
your  sweet  life." 

The  result  was  that  the  rliicf  pirate 
sold  me  a  dismal  looking  I'lug,  a  sad- 
dle and  a  bridle  for  tSO."  Wlien  I  got 
ready  to  leave,  the  boys  were  all 
standing  around  to  sec  nie  off.  Sar- 
castic remarks  were  made  about  me 
being  a  "  steeplechaser  'way  back," 
and  the  crowd  was  requested  to  give 
me  room  to  spread  myself.  I  got  mto 
the  saddle  and  was  gathering  up  the 
reins,  when  the  wretched  parody  on  a 
horse  arose  in  the  air,  bent  his  back 
like  a  bow,  and  came  down  again 
with  all  his  four  feet  in  a  bunch  under 
his  centre  of  gravity.  I  did  not  at 
that  moment  seem  to  have  any  centre 
of  gravity  of  my  own.  There  was  a 
vague  idea  in  my  brain  that  the  earth 
in  its  diurnal  whirl  had  slipped  a  cog, 
or  in  its  wild  climb  around  the  sun 
bad  stumped  its  toe.  These  thoughts 
were  simultaneous  with  the  sensation 
of  being  hit  with  something.  I  knew 
in  a  moment  that  it  was  with  the 
earth  on  which   we  live,  for  nothinsr 


G 


h^ 


^VM'V^' 


/.4 


rv-- 


i-i  (■ 


w 


=.?^\ 


I 


f 


amnllcr  than  a  filolx'  L'.'i.OOO  mllfs  in 
clrciimffn'ncc!  coiild  Imvf  i;ivcii  int' 
such  II  cold,  harsh,  Htuniiinj?  hat  on 
the  oar. 

When  I  Rot  to  my  feet,  sliook  tlu* 
sand  out  of  my  hair,  and  hun?  a  liorso 
hlanitct  around  my  splintered  <j;ar- 
mentfl,  I  discovered  tliat  my  huekintc 
hronclio  was  gone.  Tiie  cowhovj*  were 
pointing  him  out  to  each  dther  as  he 
could  he  discerned  scooting  across  the 
scenery.  Turning  to  liie  crowd,  I 
said:  "Gentlemen,  let's  all  take  a 
drink  "    Although  surprised. 

They  all  Walked  to  the  Bar 

without  comment. 

"What  was  it  that  that  animal— that 
bucking  broncho — did  to  me?" 

"He  bucked  you;  that's  what  he 
did." 

"That  was  bucking,  was  it  ?  Well, 
I'm  thankful  he  didn't  broncho,  or 
it  might  have  gone  hard  with  me. 
Have  another  drink,  gentlenu'n." 

While  they  drank,  I  slipped  out  into 
the  yard,  and  cast  my  imported  Eug- 


//'/ii'' 


lish  accent  into  the  well.  I  had 
dropped  some  of  my  self-esteem  when 
the  broncho  bucked.  When  I  came 
in  again  I  said,  "Gentlemen,  have 
another."  They  seemed  more  sur- 
prised than  before,  but  they  took  it. 
Then  Jim  stepped  out,  took  my  hand, 
and  leading  me  into  the  middle  of  the 
room,  said : 

"Pardners,  the  man  that'll  git 
bucked  as  premiscus  as  this  chap  has, 
an'  then,  in  plain  United  States  lan- 
guage, sets  up  the  drinks  three  times, 
an'  do  it  hearty,  is  no  tenderfoot,  and 
the  man  that  sez  he  is  is  a  liar." 

At    that  moment    I    graduated.     I 


I  i 


f 


!! 


99 


3^ 


oeased  beiug  a  tenderfoot  iind  'became 
a  Texan. 

Seems  to  me  that  there  is  not  as 
much  abolit  yachting  in  this  letter  ae 
I  might  have  written,  but  as  it  is 
about  the  regulation  length  it  must  go 
as  it  is.  Anned  with  a  gun,  I  am  go- 
ing to  spend  thip-aftcr'noou  bearding 
the  wild  goose  in  his  den. 


W 


1 


100 


1  'became 

is  not  at 
I  letter  a« 

as  U  is 
L  must  go 

I  am  go- 

bcvdiog 


.» 


KNOX'S  CRUISE. 


M\H  From  French  Into  Britisb 
America. 


An    Unexpected    A«*Uiiclie    of   |l)l«ii-A 

T«WO    Bait%  ou   C'odl>*h-'rii«   Irre* 

yrtlilble  Cariler  -  GallluU«il 

8eotrhm*ii. 


Stnce  t  stai-ted,  two  months  »?<>•  on  tliU 
cruise  I  did  not  recoire  a  letter  or  newspa- 
per at  any  PohI  olBca  on  the  route  until  yes- 
terday. 1  did  n  .i  <  ish  to  receive  any. 
When  I  go  away  for  n  ''jt  in  aummer  I  do 
not  like  to  bo  woxrlod  with  letters.  I  want 
to  enjoy  nbsoli'^fl  absence  frotn  cs*,  and 
you  know  yop  ^  .inot  have  that  .f  you  ro- 
ceivo  letters  saying',  for  'Dstnuto:  "We  bajf 
to  inform  you  that  t]»ft  ooto  of  Jones,  in 
your  favor  And  pay^'ilo  yesterd;tyi  has  been 
prc.estcd  for  '.jon.iis^yment;"  or  "Voiii* 
barn  was  lairncl  last  iii"1it,"et?.  I  have 
known  a  man'!*  holiday  ruined  by  a 
fiiend  wrltin;',  "An  article  in  yesterday's 
I>uU,i/  Leadtr  gave  you  .a  blast."  The 
friend  did  not  send  a  copy  of  the  "blast," 
and  the  t>oor  man  waa  in  such  a  state  of 
mental  unrest  that  hi$  brain  ^became 
frayed  at  the  edcrea,  won'ylnj,'  over  the 
matter,  and  wondering,  what  evil  thin? 
the  ZeatJn- had  said  regarding  him.  If  I 
must  know  of  these  things,  1  prefer  to  hear 
of  them  on  my  return,  sj  1.  instructed  my 
friends  not  to  send  me  any  mail  matter 
Yesterday  I  called  at  a  PostofBce  to  mail 
a  letter.  The  Postofiicd  was  in  a  small 
village  in  a  bay  on  the  sulf  coast.  It  is 
this  smallest  ToHtbtfice  lever  saw.  It  is  a 
shed  about  eight  feet  square  attached  to 
the  rear  residence  of  the  P.  M.  I  found 
it  to  contain  two  maps  of  Canada,  one 
chair,  one  pine  table  and  one  letterbox  for 
outgoing  mails,  both  foreifl;n  and  do* 
mestic 

The  postmaster  sells  stamps  at  the  ordi- 
nary market  quotations,  and  guesses  how 
many  r^iampsyou  should  put  on  your  letter 
by  "hefting"  it  in  bis  h&nd.    I  did  not 


101 


f  ' 


1  think  Masking  him  for  any  m»il.    I  would 

'  have  Ihought  it  as  likely  thaf  I  woultl  re- 

,  ceive  an  offer  of  the  crown  of  Bulsaria  as 

!  that  I  wouUl  receive  a  latter  there.    The 

■  postmaster  knew  who  I  was,  for  in  these 
■mall  villages  astraii^'or's  arrival,  his  name 

I  and  his  probable  business  are  soon  known, 

!  and  hosaid:  "Vcel  I  ze  pleasure  have  to 

I  sen'  ze  mail  of  monsieur  to  zo  boat?" 

I       "Ouj,  monsieur." 
I       ".\rail  for  me?" 

'  "Oui,  monsieur;  much!  grande!  tr-r-r-o- 
I  mendous! 

i  "Well,  if  tlioie  is  any.  just  give  it  to 
j  me— I'll  t.iko  it.  Xocdn't  bother  sending 
I  it." 

',      "Monsieur  could  not  carry  oet,  ze  amount 
i  of  eet  eest  so  mucli.    I  have  take  eat  in  ze 
I  house.    Monsieur  can  sec  v.e  sack-;. ' 
"Sacks:" 
"Oui,  oui.    liu-m-monsc!  ter-r-r-ific.    I 

show  monsieur." 
;      Then  ho  went  into  the  house,  and  dragged 

out  two  great  sacks  full  of  newspapers, 
j  each  of  them  addressed  to  me.  There 
)   were  all  kinds  of  newspapers,  dailies  and 

weeklies,  public  !ied  at  all  sorts  of  places, 

from  Mexico  to  Manitoba. 
"Tree  hundred   and   seoxty-seev  is  ze 

amount  I  count— more  as  wo  gets  at  ze 

I'ostoQice  in  tree,  four  year," 
I  opened  boina  of  the  newspapers  and 


,P"-:.'      '^ 


I 


Offki 


I 


102 


*■* 


saw  traces  of  the  exchange  editor's  sheara, 
eo  I  knew  that  th""  were  exchanges  sent  to 
me  by  way  of  a  joke  by  some  of  my  New 
Vork  journalistic  friends,  who  possibly  had 
tthe  office  boy  spend  a  day  addressins  them. 
The  village  is  iti  the  only  harbor,  within 
many  miles,  on  this  coast,  and  the  sender 
or  senders  rlghtl>  judged  that  I  would  call 
there,  and  so  bent  the  papers,  as  a  surprise, 
to  me.  I  stuck  them  all  back  in  the  sacks 
&nd  gave  them  back  to  the  postmaster.  I 
said:  "You  take  them,  keep  them,  read 
tiiem,  sell  them,  give  them  io  the  poor,  do 
anything  you  wish  with  them.  I  am  not  a 
literary  glutton,  and  I  don't  ^ant  them." 
J  left  her  majesty's  servant  gazing  at  me 
with  astonishment,  and,  I  presume,-  ho  has 
reading  matter  enough  to  last  Lim  for  a 
year,  and  enough  papers  left  over  to  start 
fires  with  as  long  as  he  lives. 

I  spent  a  day  at  Gaspo.  It  is  a  town  nt 
about  eight  hundred  inhabitants,  who  live 
by  cod  fishing.  On  approaching  the  coast, 
and  miles  before  you  see  laud,  you  caa 
smell  the  chief  industry  of  the  place  with 
the  naked  noso.  The  Gaspe  codfish  are 
said  to  be  better  than  thosA  found  in  any 
other  part  of  the  world.  The  natives  not 
only  live  by  them  bub  on  them.  Codfish 
and  potatoes  for  breakfast,  the  same  for 
dinner,  and  a  complete  lack  of  variety  for 


=^-^'(^^ 


\w.\ 


■•  -^  V,, 


-'      '.J> 


m 


'  I 


A^.^^^ 


Buppci'.  An  "itnciont  and  fishliko  Bmall" 
pornmatos  overytliing  on  the  coast.  Tlie 
chief  ngricultnrnl  proflnct  of  t^o  placii  is 
potatoCR,  and  it  is  said  that  thoy  aro  often 
found  ^vith  fish  bones  in  them.  A  large 
fleet  of  vesBoIs  U  devoted  ta  tho  fiaherlos. 
The  cod  is  pplit  and  cleaned,  and  then 
Kpread  ont  in  row?,  acres  in  extent,  to  dry 
in  the  BUD. 

I  met  an  old  whaleman  who  told  me 
much  of  tho  place,  of  its  history,  and  of 
its  present  and  past  condition.  lie  was 
inrlincd  to  delve  into  the  lioftry  and  mil- 
dowe<l  past,  and  I  lot  him  delve.  Ho  be- 
gan with  tho  inevitable  Jacquos  Cartior. 
'I'hey.  all  do  it.  In  no  part  of  tiie  province 
of  i^luobec  can  you  talk  to  a  man  for  two 
minutes  but  ha  will  twist  tho  conversation 
around  so  as  to  have  a  chanco  to  tell  you 
that  Jacquo;^  Cartior  landed  hero  in  1531, 
and  80  forth.  If  you  ask  a  grocor  if  tho 
egRs  he  is  soiling  you  aro  fresh,  !io  will  toll 
you  that  there  wasn't  a  fresher  lot  of  eggs 
laid  iu  tho  province  einco  Jacques  (Jartier 
landed  on  yonder  rock,  at  tho  mouth  of  tho 
bay,  and  presented  the  first  poultry  ever 
on  this  continent— throo  block  Spanish 
hens  and  a  Ilouilan  rooster— to  tho  J 


» 


101 


I   ! 


I' 


^1 


C^qK 


of  the  Mtomac  Indians;  nnd  than  he  will 
take  yn\x  to  tho  door  and  lot  you  look  at 
the  rotjk  through  a  field  gluM. 

THE  DEMON  DI^^COVEnF,^. 

Tho  name  of  tho  diicoverer  of  Cannla 
haunts  me;  1  cannot  get  away  from  it.  Out 
iu  the  ftulf  I  pasb  a  fiahinEf  smuck,  and 
"Jacquos  Cartier,  St.  John,  N.  1\"  in 
painted  on  her  stei.i.  I  jjn  aihoro,  and  find 
"L'llotel  da  Jacques  Cartior"  staro  mo  in 
the  face.  I  shut  my  eyes  and  I  soo,  in 
great  white  lottors  dancln?  on  a  black 
background,  the  name  of  JacquGS  (/'artlor. 
T  go  to  sleep  repeatinff  tho  namo,  I  cannot 
help  it,  and  in  the  morning  tlio  fimt  son- 
tenco  that  forma  itaolE  in  Iny  waking'  brain 
in  "Jacques  Cartior  di')ct>vcr'icl   (/'anada  in 

JlD^l-cuufoual  him!"  lw«a^to  a  Hktle 
church,  Tifst  .Sunday,  to  hoar  a  sermon. 
The  preaclior'ft  toxt  was  "Lo  1  I  como" 
(Psalma  x1:7),  nhd  the  first  words  of  tha 
aermon  were  "Brethren,-  when  Jacquos 
Cartier  came"  - — 

I  stayed  to  hoar  no  more. 

To  return  to  tlio  old  whaloi*.  Ho  told 
mo  that  when  Cartier  6rBt  landed  at  Gasps 
ho  *ound  a  tribe  of  Indians  unusually  ad- 
vanced in  civilization.  They  knew  tho 
points  of  the  compass;  had  mapa  of  the 
country  for  many  hundreds  of  miles  alonjf 
the  coast;  know  a  littlo  of  astronomy;,  and 
worshiped  a  cross.  Thoy  had  a  tradition 
that  told  of  men  who  had  landod  on  thoir 
shores  in  distant  asc.^,  and  who,  by  oro-;t* 
irif,'  a  cross,  cured  them  of  a  dreadful  plague 
that  was  then  destroying  them.  It  is  sup- 
posed that  these  men  were  Xorso  Vikings, 
who  established  fishing  stations  here  in  the 
eleventh  century,  and  told  tho  Indians 
something  of  Christianity. 

The  'Micmacs  had  many  legends  arid  tra- 
ditions that  seemed  to  inlicato  tliat  some 
Btory  parallel    to  tho  world's  history,  as 
told  In  the  Eibie,  r>\ay  havo  readied  thanrt. 
One  of  these  is  to  tho  efTocfc  t'lat,   in  tho 
__.f.\?  early  ngcs  of  the  world,   men  ;vnd  beasts 
'        [  spoke  one  language,  and  lived  in  harmony 
tngetlior   for   many,    many   years.     Tho 
.g-|'5  Croat  Spirit  lived  iu  abe.iutiful  island  far 
out  In  tho  soa,  whore  noltlior  bird  nor  canoe 
could  venture,   and    whor3   no  man  nor 
beast  had  ever  been.    As  time  wont  on, 
the  children  of  man,    and    tho  boar,  tha 
bison,  the  turtle,  and  other  boasts  wanted 
to  go  to  the  island,  and  thoy  held  a  council 


I.) 


ES 


C'ARTltf? 


105 


'h  *  ' 


4. 

and  dotorinined  to  "buiM  a  causoway 
Across  the  sea.  niul  only  tha 
Wis6  Owl  objected,  and  predicted  dire 
calamity  if  flioy  should  do  so,  but  they 
heeded  not.  And  from  far  and  wide  they 
came,  and  Iho  beaver  cut  down  the  trees, 
.iml  the  bonr  and  the  turtle  carried  rodw, 
and,  as  they  besjan  to  build,  a  great  miracle 
was  wrought,  and  the  beasta  and  the  men 
who  had  hitherto  spolcon  the  same  tonf?up, 
could  not  understand  each  other,  and  the 
building  of  the  causeway  carAo  to  nauglit, 
and  the  biiilders  were  scattered  over  the 
face  of  the  earth.  Since  then  only  the 
WJBO  Owl  has  spoken  a  word  that  men 
cotjd  understand,  and  for  ages  in  tha 
gloomy  depths  of  the  woods  ho  has  startled 
the  luilian  with  his  mournful  word«,  "Too- 
woof,  Too-wo,"  which,  boinj;  freely  trans- 
lated, lucanetli,  "Vou  soua  of  Kuns,  I  told 
you  so." 

The  Micmac  nation  now  consists  of  about 
eight  thousand  Indians,  scattered  all  alonj; 
the  coast  of  tho  maritime  provinces,  who 
live  by  hunting:  and  fishing.  Many  years 
ap;o,  when  the  (Jlovcrnor  General  of  Canaila 
visited  Gaspo  he  was  waited  on  by  a  dele- 
gation of  chiefs  of  the  Micmacs.  Among 
other  things  that  they  had  recovered  from 
a  wreck  was  a  box  of  decanter  labels,  mada 
of  metal  and  adorned  with  gilt  letters. 
Not  knowinpt  their  proper  use,  the  chiefs 
nsed  them  as  neck  ornaments,  and  entered 
tho  presence  of  the  Governor  labeled  "Old 
Tom,"  "Sheiry,"  "Wliisky,"  "Brandy," 
etc. 


'I 


^F' 


V. 


t. 


J!':f' 


u 


frl   If    «"' 

i^S#'c:*^|^^Sf,  fi 


/: 


r^r:,. 


^' 


'fyy  v-'J^l  v'''W  r'i'i\  /.Avrt'.' 


IOC. 


t,--  .-  I 


aaaasss. 


•■rrtvi 


.  / 


H 

i 


If  yovi  look  on  the  mtp  jon  will  iM  that 
OoBpe  ia  ftc.  the  point  of  •  great  peniiuaU 
running  into  the  gulf  and  tying  between 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  bay  of  Chaleur. 
Here  x/aa  aoce  a  great  whaling;  (ground, 
but  now  very  few  whalen  are  found  in  this 
region.  It  ia  a  bleak  and  desolate  shuro, 
and  strangers  noldom  lingcv  thoro  longer 
than  the  time  it  takes  the  stoamer  to  land 
and  receive  the  innil  and  frei^'ht.  The 
traveler  uaoally  walks  through  the  vlliitge 
until  the  cheerless  surroundings  make  him 
blue  and  low  spirited,  ahd  the  odor  of  cod- 
K«b,  in  a  state  of  desuetude,  percolatos 
through  his  aystem;  then  ho  goes  hack  to 
his  boat,  and  writes  in  his  diary  under  the 
head  of 

DESCRIPTION  OK   UAfiPK. 

The  scenery  here  covers  as  much  ground 
as  at  some  other  places,  but  it  ia  not  so 
varied  or  obtruHive.  It  consists  chiefly  of 
CodBsh  lying  on  their  backs  in  th?  cold  em- 
brace of  death,  and  of  a  photograph  gallery 
where  photos,  representing  groups  of  the 
deceased  spread  out  in  rows,  are  sold  for 
50  cents  each."  Then  the  boat  sails  away, 
and  the  tourist  never,  never  comes  back 
there  asrain. 

It  has  been  said  that  Frenchmen  cannot 
be  denationalized.  The  French  Canadian 
ia  a  strong  evidence  of  the  truth  oi  this 
statement.  Ho  Is  as  French  in  thought, 
apeech  and  manners  as  were  his  forefathers 
who  came  from  France  two  hundro'l  years 
ago.  I  had  always  thought  that  the 
Scotch,  as  a  rule,  held  to  their  manners, 
customs  and  language  with  mora  than  or- 
dinary tenacity.  If  so,  there  are  wonder- 
ful excepttons  to  the  rule  in  several  places 
on  the  St;  Lawrence.  After  the  conquest 
of  Canada  the  English  gave  several  grants 
of  land  to  a  Scotchman  named  Malcolm 
Frazer,  who  settled  many  families  on  it. 
I  saw  quite  a  number  of  Frazers  and  Mc- 
Nabs  who  could  not  speak  a  word  of  Eng- 
lisb.  They  were  Scotch  in  appearance, 
bub  French  in  everything  else.  It  was 
veiy  odd  to  hear  these  sandy  haired, 
freckle  faced  Scotchmen  say  in  French, 
that  they  could  not  sp3ak  English,  or  to 
hear  some  speak  Ea<;lish  with  the  French 
accent. 

From  Cape  Gaspe  south,  aa  we  proceed 
alon^  the  shores  of  New  Brunswick  and 
Nova  Scotia,  we  notice  that  the  Cath- 
olic thurches  are  further  and  further  apart; 


107 


oroBSAs  ««aBe  to  crown  tlw  hilltops,  aud  wa 
gradually  sail  out  of  a  Frenohlnto  a  Scotoh 
and  English  atmoapheiv.  The  hilU  are 
not  BO  barren,  and  the\e  are  less  of-them 
than  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  coast.  1  am 
glad  of  this,  for  I  was  getting  weary  of  the 
Bamonesa  of  the  lower  St.  .Law^rence.  In 
traveling  theso  waters  in  a  steamer  you 
pfM  so  r^uickly  that  the  scenery  does  not 
beeome  monotonous.  I  commend  to  yon 
the  trip  from  Montreal  to  Pictou  in' 
Xova  Scotia  by  steamer.  The  Quebec 
Steamship  Company  send  a  steamer,  the 
Miraniichi,  over  this  route  twice  a  month 
dtiringth<«  summer.  The  Miramichi  was 
built  for  *  blockade  runner,  and  is  a  very 
handeome  and  well  equipped  boat.  She 
leaves  Montreal  on,  say,  Monday  and  runs 
to  Fictou,  in  Nova  Scotia,  a  distance  of 
over  a  thousand  miles,  arriving  in  Pictou 
on  Saturday.  The  route  is  down  the  St. 
Lawrence  past  the  island  of  Anticosti  and 
Cape  Gaspe  into  the  gulf,  through  the  bay 
of  Chaleiir,  touching  at .  several  points  on 
Prince  Edward's  Island,  And  through 
Northumberland  straits  to  Pictou.  From 
there  a  train  will  take  you  in  a  fe^  hours 
to  Halifax  or  to  St.  John,  New  Brunswick, 
or  by  steamer  you  can  reach  Boston  in  a 
day. 


108 


V 


lOGOFTHEYJlCHTCHAMPlAIN 

■  ■11*  ■  -■ 

Col.  Knox  Tells  the  Story 
of  a  Good  Dinner. 


Eccentricities  of  a  Nova 
Scotia    Goat. 


Tribulations     of     Trying      to 
Write  Without  a  Subject. 


I  like  to  dine.    I  lilie  a  goud  dinner. 

What  would  be  an  excellent  dinner  at 

one  tiine.and  under  some  circumstances, 

might  be  considered  a  very  wretched 

j  raea  at  some  other  time,  and  in  some 


other  place.  Tne  constituent  parts  of 
an  enjoyable  dinner  are  good  company, 
an  appetite  and  something  to  eat.  I 
have  encompassed  many  queer  dinners 
in  my  wanderings,  and  have  sometimes 
assuaged  a  clamorous  appetite  with 
unique  provender.  I  have  consumed 
expensive  viands  in  the  gilded  haunts 
of  millionaires,  whose  tables  groaned 
under  luxuries  garnered  from  all  tlie 
ends  of  the  earth ;  and  again,  on  the 
plains  of  the  West,  hundreds  of  miles 
from  a  napkin,  I  have  breakfasted  on  a 
prickly  pear,  dined  on  a  chew  of  tobac- 
co, and  supped  on  a  reminiscence.  I 
have  surfeited  myself  on  the  higli-priced 
food  of  the  rich,  and  I  have  cultivated 


109 


^-^ 


i    , 


oorns  (111  Diy  palate  with  Hit'  fiirlioii  of* 
tlio  yrll(»\v  liiHciiit  aiul  ti'in  brciul  of' 
Ilic  liiwly  cDwIiDy.  Hut  <•!  alliiHi.Hi- 
iiciMiii  uliicli  I  havi' ever  iiaiii<'i|ial((l, 
one  I  ale  ycsicrday  was  llu'  iiiont  cu- 
joyalilf.  ll  w  ill  lie  to  inu  an  cmiiiriiij^ 
incmoiy  while  life  laslN.  In  the  years 
l()c<iini'  1  shall  loi'k  lack  and  se(!  it,  an 
iiMsi.s  (iT  a  tliinicr  aniiil  tlu;  aiid  wastes 
of  the  st)ii|is.  jiiints  and  «'nliies  of  Hie 
hdai'ilin:;  lionse  tahle  d'hote  on  wideh  1 
preyed  in  (  ally  lil'e. 

Il  was  in  a  (iihin  on  Hie  side  ol'  a 
hieak  nioiinlain  in  IS'ova  Seolia  that  I 
enjoyed  this  rare  dinner.  I  went,  asliore 
yesterday  nmrnini;'  very  early,  and 
liir<'d  an  Irislinian  to  jiiiide  iik?  lliroiijrh 
llio  innuiilains  in  search  oi"  paili  id;;es, 
or  such  ol  lier  flame  as  niii^hl,  cross  our 
path.  Ill  ahoiii,  20  miles  ol  a  tramp  we 
i'oiind  iiothiiii;  wdilhy  oi'  death.  The 
hleak  aVd  harreii  hills  are  very  sjiarsely 
iiihaliileil.  'I'lie  soil,  when  there  is  any, 
is  ihin  and  jiocr.  and  the  hills  are  steep 
and  hart'.      Yon  coimI 

Kot  Kaise  Even  an   Echo  on  ThPin. 

W'v,  had  walked  from  dawn  until  al- 
most sunsel ;  wciiad  eaten  iiolliin,i;  all 
(lay,  and  we  were  very  tired  and  iimi- 
ury.  1  was  so  luinmy  that  I  eoiild  act- 
ually liear  Hie  hiin_i;er  |j;iiawiii!JC  lioles  in 
the  ceilin;;  of  my  interior,  and  o«'ca- 
sioiially  lurniii!:;  around  and  hiUnu  itself 
on  the  !('<;  from  mere  spile,  vexation  i 
and  wi'ariness  of  waitinix 

Down  near  the  fool  of  the  mountain, 
a  mile  away,  we  saw  a  house.  Toward 
it  we  directed  our  steps,  and  with  throh- 
hiiiii;  app<'lites  approached  what  we  dis- 
coverc(i  to  lie  a  very  wretched  cahin. 
Five  hare  legned  children  and  an  uiiat- 
Iractivo  pi<r  oecu]iied  tlie  foreground  of 
the  dollar-aii  acre  landscape. 

"Not  much  prospect  of  a  hamiuet 
here,  Larry  ?' 

"1  h('  thinkiu}!  so,  sir:  to  jiKlg'c' hy 
that  pill,  that  hasn't  more  fat  on  his 
rilis  than  vvid  oil  a  jewsharp,  and  the 
cliildher,  that  liaven't  as  much  clothes 
on  tho  jiack  of  thim  as  would  clean  a 
Viuu,  ii'.s  11  rimnant  of  the  faiuiiu;  of '47 
we  have  struck.  ' 

We  entered  the  hut  and  found  the 
owner,  an  Irishman,  sitting  on  a  stool 
lieside  ii  pot,  eatinj^  potatoes.  His 
mode  of  eating  was  to  hreak  tlie  potato 
in  two  jiieces,  dip  the  end  of  the  half 
in  salt  that  was  spread  on  liis  knee,  and 
then  s(iueezc  it  out  of  its  skin  into  liis 
mouth.    When  I  told  him  that  we  were 


110 


.■r 


\' 


:% 
•  % 


•1 


'V 


^'\\i^J 


•^rt/v^'' 


'>\S 


2  I'll 


^^^ 


\V| 


lf(..  *^l 


c 


:;i5' 


what  he  had  he  sS  J     "^"  "«>  ^»t 
»?.  "wid  a  heart  anrj  „  k  T.'i^  welcome 

rounded  the  edgeotni  I'"*  ^''''«  ^e  j 
the  potatoes  Z  womM     "PPetites  with 
eatuieal  bread  ^nd?  Tf «  «  «cone  of 
band,  would  ca?ch     I  *'°'"''  her  hus- 
haveniilk.        "^'''^  '^^  «oat,  we  could 

'^  "^  horse  coljjr.    wCn  To^rV  *  "^'^ 

his  horse  collar  wr«  L-  i?«hzed  that 
'he  dieestivi  m  K-  ^'"S  '"ed  away  in 
the  disKu  SacSr,  «  «2  ^"«" 
tune  dawned  on  hI  „  ^^^'^  misfor- 
«  his  feelings  in  r^;i'nl^''.^«^e  ^«"t 
M«ke  the  waifof  a  Jos'  ^f  '°""^«d 
around  a  Ohs^-        ^t  ^oul  prowJincr 

With  di"n,??irev?;r;  ^^  ^  ^  «* 

singletree  in  Wshand^,/^*'"^^' «°d  a       ^'    ^-^- 
goat.    She  did  no?  '  "?  ^•'"t  for  the 

spreadinrher  tan'to'^fh  "if  ^""'  ^ut 
promenaded  off  i,ti°*.^«  hreeze,  she 
bonair  way  peculiar  £.**  J*""'^'  and  de- 
She  went  stSnl  *° '"ouptain  goats 
"P  the  hill  Then  lwn""i '*•' ^«"««. 
hrook,  and  back  an 3^?.''° 5 ''^''^^^  the 
;r>fh  John  in  full  c?v  in  h"""^  ^^.^  '^^"se 
the  pageant  came  te7rin„^  '  ''^^^-    As 
the  goat  bleafinJ     "?^  P»«t  the  door 
Joh/  wavbg' thf  s?  ,i«,^'«i-e  defiance; 
Jient  gloamfng  ani  IT^  "'  "»«  am: 
head  her  off  and^    ^*".'"g  on  us  to 
potatoes,  irip*;^  7h.  ^'"^'"'^  »^  «at  hS 
fllatthesame  fmi  ''f,^°'*'  «°d  laugh 
the  like  of  Which  L'dr'  *  'P««'^'« 
'^-twentaroS?,d^t'^--^£ 


^0^>^ 


''/i, 


%   A 


^ 


and  so  rapidly  tnat  sue  looked  like  a 
procession  of  coats  that  wanted  to  go 
somewhere  and  was 

Pressed  for  Time. 

John  was  suddenly  possessed  with  an 
inspiration,  and  as  suddenly  be  stopped 
in  his  inad  career.  Why  should  he  pur- 
sue the  animal ;  why  not  turn,  meet, 
and  intercept  her  on  the  next  lap? 
With  John  to  thin'  was  to  act.  He 
was  no  sooner  struck  with  the  idea 
than  he  turned,  and — then  be  was  struck 
by  the  goat,  and  doubled  up  like  the 
mattress  of  a  folding  bed. 

Wlien  a  goat  rushing  through  space 
is  suddenly  confronted  by  a  man,  who 
bits  her  on  the  bead  with  his  stomach, 
the  goat  is  invariably  surprised.  This 
goat  was  so  astonished  that  she  stood 
still  for  a  moment,  and  during  that 
moment  she  was  seized  by  two  of  the 
white-haired  children  and  tied  to  a 
cart.  We  had  to  slam  John  on  the  back 
with  a  board  to  straighten  him  out. 
While  this  was  going  on  the  woman 
milked  the  goat.  Soon  the  oat-cake 
was  cooked,  and  then  such  a  dinner  as 
we  had !  There  was  nothing,  absolutely 
nothing,  but  the  oatcake,  the  milk  and 
the  potatoes.  But  bow  I  enjoyed  them, 
and  bofr  much  of  these  things  I  ate, 
words  would  fall  me  to  express. 

You  may  not  understand  why  I  am 
so  enthusiastic  over  Uiis  dinner— you 
who  order  a  dinner  a  la  carte,  or  a 
la  charge-it-up-to-me ;  but  if  you  will 
some  morning  go  out  into  the  woods 
and  walk  around  there  until  evening 
without  eating  anything,  and  then  read 
this  while  a  frugal  supper  is  being 
cooked  for  you,  you  will  appreciate  my 
feelings. 

Quite  a  number  of  people  have  asked, 
"  How  do  you  write  your  letters  on 
board  the  yacht,  and  how  do  you  spend 
your  time  ?"  We  generally  write  our 
letters  under  adverse  circumstances  and 
the  canvas  roof  of  the  cabin.  We  hunt 
for  the  driest  pad  of  paper  on  the  ship, 

112 


ff", 


i\¥ 


•.^ 


m 


■  A 


l^x 


'[  (iiiil  tli(U>  get  II  pencil  out  (if  tjic  cnndli- 
I  Itox  luul  sharpen  ^t  \\\\\\  Mio  (iirving 
I  kiilff.  I^you  liiivo  fol lowed  inc  cniu- 
fiilly  BO  fur,  you  will  sco  that  we  arc 
now  ready  to  write.  Tin-  next  lliini,'  is 
toselcct  BBultjcct.  Tlic  (lis|iii(('  we  iiad 
lu  tliu  niorniiii;  with  tht;  k<'i'|tfr  (>(  the 
wharf,  lliu  tail<  wu  liad  with  tiic  nmn 
who  sold  im  milk,  aiwl  llie  pun  I  uiado 
ait)nt  tli(!  "  l)oli»tay,"  may  he  txcccd- 
in^ly  inlercHtiiii?  to  us,  liut  would  not 
inlercst  till!  jcacif'rs  of  thu  IIkkm  o.  It 
iHoiioui^h  to  paraly/.c II  writer  totiiink 
that  what  lio  wril'es  will  ix!  rend  i>v 
moro  tlian  lOO.OUO  iieople.  It  lilts  liiiii 
Willi  solenuiity  wlieii  lie  reidi/es  thai 
tlu!  thoughts  tlial  go  suiiriuL;  throiiujli 
Ills  Itraiii,  and  that  crystalli/es  in  type, 
may  g<t  to  llio  world  full  of  u  liigli  pur- 
pose and  typof^rapliieal  errors,  and 
have  an  influence  in  forming;  tlu!  tastes, 
and  moulding  tliu  charaeler  of  jiis  fel- 
low-men, or  he  used  to  wrap  around  a 
sandwich.  Tlie  liuniorous  faiK-y  that 
was  created,  and  that  wandered  througli 
his  iutcllect  until  it  took  tangiltlesluipe 
in  nonpareil  type,  may,  by  eounlle.ss 
thousands,  be  used  as  a  pattern 

For  Literary  Composition  or  a  Shirt, 

and  eolunuis  of  .«age  advice  may  siuk 
deep  into  the  hearts  of  yearly  SMhscrih- 
ers,  or  he  used  to  wad  a  giui.  You  see 
now  how  important  it  is  to  have  a  suit- 
able 8ul)ject.  1  say,  "Murray,  what 
are  you  going  to  write  abojity"  lie  an- 
swers, ••  Well,  I  shall  describe  thecoun- 
Iry  we  sailed  tlu'ougli  yesterday,  and 
follow  that  with  a  few  thoughts  on  com- 
mercial union  between  Camula  aiul  the 
I'nited  States,  and  then  1  shall  wind  up 
withrt  synopsis  of  the  history  of  Can- 
ada from  its   discovery  to  date." 

When  he  covers  all  tiiat  ground  there 
is  nothing  left  for  mc,  and  that  is  the 
reason  I  have  to  write,  as  I  have  in  this 
letter,  about  a  cheap,  everyday  goat. 
When  I  expostulate  with  Murray  about 
monopolizing  ail  the  subjects,  he  .«ay8, 
"Oh,  thunder!  haven't  you  got  youf 
imagination  to  fall  back  on." 

E  am  not  working  my  imagimxtionon 
this  trip.  The  things  lliat  actually  hap- 
pen are  more  interesting  and  huniorous 
than  the  things  that  are  imagined  or 
created,  li  you  describe  a  thing  you 
have  seen,  no  matter  \iow  strange  it  is, 
it  will  seem  natmal  to  the  reader,simply 
because  it  is  natural  The  tiling  tliat  is 
a  mere  creation  of  the  imagination  can 
never  be  as  true  as  the   thing  that   is, 


li; 


*v 


■•■/ 

1 


•i*    r 


t 


:?V:f    ;.• 


that  <.\ist.>:.  or  thill  Imn  (ixintol.  I  Ihmc 
piiliciu-c  witli  iii'liHlH  wild  Hit.  Ill  II  (it'sk 
iiiiii  Hkftcli  chiiractrrH,  (lii;i;lii^  I  lie 
fciiturfH  1111(1  tli«!  vccciiliicilicH  of  foini 
out,  of  lli«>ir  iiniiuiniitionH  Why  iloii'l 
they  p>  <Mil  and  sit  on  a  honcli  in  tlic 
piirU,  or  riilo  up  town  in  ti  ulrccl  car, 
and  roproduro  IIk;  pcculiariticH  of  the 
jM'oph'  thry  nco  on  llii!  HtrcttHor  in  tlic 
carHl'  Thcro  arc  inor(f  (|iiiiinl  and  nir- 
ioiimTcciitricilicM  of  lorm  and  fnilurr, 
speech  and  action,  to  he  «)bHerve(l  in 
tlic  p(!oplc  we  meet,  llian  <an  ho,  cre- 
ated by  tlic  inoRt  vivid  iniau;ination. 

Here  I  am,  away  otT  tiic  tracit  and 
writini?  about  a  nnilter  that  is  not  perti- 
nent to  anytliini;  I  hiul  in  mind  wiieii  I 
began  tiiiH  letter.  Tliat  is  tlie  icsnlt  of 
not  iiaving  a  pubject  to  write  on.  You 
would,  however,  pardon  my  lack  of 
coherence,  I  am  sure,  if  you  saw  me 
trying  to  tlniah  tluH  lettet,a8l  sit  on  the 
(luarter  deck  that  slopes  at  an  angle  of 
45  degrees,  while  a  dense  Nova  Scotian 
fog  is  boritig  its  way  through  my  clothes 
and  making  my  teeth  chatter,  and  I  aiu 
holding  on  to  a  boom,  I  thiidc  they  call 
it,  witli  one  hand  and  using  the  other 
to  write  tliis. 


'/   ...,jr)'^ 


114 


■pf^ 


•vS-l''- 


^^ 


THE   "CHAMPUIN. 

Full  of  Patriotism  and 
Whisky. 

THE    LEPERS    OF    TRAOADIE. 


I  liiivf  Iniil  ii'iiMit  nil  till'  \ iii'litiiiL;  iiihI 
all  III''  rcMt,  I  riri'd  iIi'ih  Hiitiitinr.  I  iiiii  iir- 
Imilly  liilii^iH'd  Willi  ir^^rniL'.  W'lirii  Hii 
rori  wrnlc  iS|iiiK('s|)('iirc'><  jiliiyM  for  iiitn, 
lie  iiiiiil<'  otic  of  Ills  cliariirli'i .,  ^-oiiif  (in 
I.  II.  ('.  mill  Kiiy,  "If  nil  till'  yiiiiH  vvcri' 
liliiyiiii;  lioliiliiys,  to  icMt.  would  In-  ns 
Irdiiilis  IIS  to  toil"  As  I  IIIII  lit  jirrsi'llt 
(■stiiinii;rd  from  my  liliniiy,  I  mny  Unvc 
^ot  till  ({iiotutloii  vvnili^,  lull  IIS  wriltin 
iiliiivc  it,  cxiirrHSCH  llu'  idni  tlir  aiitlioi' 
iiiriint  to  convey. 

I  mil  vny  ffliid  tliiit  wr  Imvi'  to  i  nni 
not  mily  mir  liiriid  Imt  our  liolidnys  liy 
till-  swi'iil  of  oiir  lirowH.  \\i-  ii|(|>rrriiiti' 
till'  liriad  till  tlic  morr  lti'raii-<r  wr  liavf 
lit  lalior  for  it.  if  lliric  was  no  niixlit  tlif 
continiioiiH  day  would  In-  ii  wrarimss.  If 
it.  was  not.  for  llir  days  of  lalior,  \vr 
would  not  tippn-ciati'  the  liolidays.  I  am 
lii';^iniiin<::  to  tliink  that  I  sliiill  lir  as  ^liiil 
to  go  buck  to  work  lis  I  was  to  liawr  il 
wlirii  I  entered  on  this  three  inoritlis'  rest. 
.Man  may  t;:el,  so  mmli  pie  espeeially  if  it 
is  nil  the  smiie  kind  of  pie  that,  lie  will 
yearn  for  u  jiiet  e  of  |ilaiii  liread,  by  way 
of  chaiij^e.  I  lielievi^  that,  to-day  I  would 
enjoy  lieinj^  Imek  in  the  Inisy  huuiils  of 
th(!  metropolis,  <  limliitii^  over  my  fellow 
mmi  in  an  elfort  to  mi  ii  seat,  in  u  eross- 
town  car,  lietter  than  I  now  enjoy  .-iHiii),' 
in  i\\c  woods  liere,  on  the  coast,  of  I'rinee 
Edward's  Islmid,  with  foreiixn  mils  and 
strange  inemhers  of  thi;  Img  family  pros- 
pecting all  over  me. 

Jt  is  a  blessed  thing  thai  we  are  so  built 
by  nature,  that  all  of  us  like  change  of 
sceiK!  and  occupation.  If  it  wc'ro  other- 
wise and  Immmiity  Inid  been  content  to 
remain  as  created,  we  would  all  he  deiol- 
iettc  savages,  witlioiit  a  desire  to  im- 
prove our  condition  or  take  a  chance  in 
the  Louisiana  lottery. 

Yachting  is  very  enjoyable,  I  know, 
and  I  like  it,  but  there  is  a  sort  of  monot- 
ony about  (lodging  tlu;  foresail  when  it 
gybes  to  ])ort,  and  dodging  it  again  five 
minutes  afterwards  when  il  gybes  to  star- 
board- and  there  is  a  lack  of  variety  in 
stepping  over  th(!  same  bucket,  and  up- 
setting the  same  pot  of  spar  varnish  every 
time  you  take  a  turn   on  deck:  and  then 


115 


.  I         •      < 


;  I 


a  diet  in  whicli  codtlsli  takes  'center 
staj^e"  and  i)lays  tlie  leading  role,  may  be 
nutritive  ))ut  in  not  attractive.  Tiiese 
tilings  however,  are  nor*  so  wearying  to 
me  as  has  lieeii  tlie  dreadful  sameness  of 
the  coast  line  of  the  lower  St.  J.awrenee 
and  of  the  gulf.  \  pour  out  wild  uii- 
hridled  language  every  morning,  wlien  I 
awake  and  look  out  on  rocks  and  hills 
and  cliil's  that  hav(^  the  same  haic  and 
dcsoliite  apix'arance  as  have  other  rocks 
and  hills  and  cJilTs  that  we  have  lieen 
passing,  every  (\.\\  for  a  month.  I  little 
Ihoiiglit  that  I  should  ever  really  lie  tilled 
with  a  fervent  desin;  to  set^  "Try  i5oker's 
liitters,"  or  ''(Jet  Your  Susjieiuleis  at 
Cohens,''  jiainted  in  two  colors,  on  the 
fact!  of  nature,  Inif  1  a-^sure  you  I  would 
give  a  trade  dollar  to  refresh  my  eyes 
hy  gazing  on  a  rock  or  headland'  so 
adorned. 

Mii.E  o.\  im:.\ii:ik 

T  used  lo  like  mountains,  and  T.remcm- 
Iter  when  1  lived  on  the  jilains,  how  tire- 
some the  unbroken  curve  of  tlu^  horizon 
became  as  we  looked  on  it  from  day  to 
day,  and  how  Simpson,  when  he  was 
contined  to  the  house  with  a  broken  leg, 
used  to  have  a  mule  staked  out  on  tlie 
])rairie  to  rest  his  v\v.  on.  as  he  expressed 
it.  and  -'vary  the  darned  monotony  of 
fifty  miles  of  dead,  level  dirt." 

Hut  that  was  not  any  worse  than  this. 
Of  cours(!  there  is  some  variety  in  the 
size  of  the  rocks  and  hills,  hut  it  is  the 
same  variety  repeated  daily,  and  I  have 
had  enough  of  it.  When  I  have  feasted 
my  eye  on  all  ther(>  is  of  a  ten-(cnt  ])an- 
orania,  I  don't  encore  it  and  ask  the  man 
to  keej)  on  turning  the  handle,  until  I  get 
a  dollar's  worth. 

One  thing  I  am  glad  of :  T  have  es- 
caped from  the  land  infested  by  the 
French-Canadian.  Down  here  on  Prince 
Hdward's  Island  there  are  very  few  of 
them.  I  had  beconu!  sf)  accusfonn'd  to 
exchanging  my  bad  French  for  their 
worse  English,  that  this  morning,  down 
in  the  bay  below,  when  I  met  a  man  who 
had  an  u))-all-iiigli(-and-don't-care-v>  no- 
knows-it  c  .i)ression  of  countenance,  1 
said  :   "Parlez-vous  Anglaise  ?" 

The  man  said  : 

"\o,  faith,  an'  T  don't,  an'  T'ni  not 
ashamed  to  own  it.  but  I  spake  Hnirlish, 
thank  God!" 

The  inhabitants  of  this  Island  are 
mostly  Scotch  and  English,  and  1  have 
already  found  that  they  enjoy  a  good 
American  jokt',  when  it  is  laboriously  ex- 
plaineil  to  them,  lint  in  writing,  and  left 
with    llieiii    over   night.     I  have  also  dis- 


> 


'^?i-l^ 

.■5t, 

■■"^'i 

■  *^. 

^- 

♦ 

116 


covered  that  any  facetious  remark  re- 
garding lier.gracious  majesty  is  considered 
a  sin  against  liigh  lieaven  and  the 
Britisli  constitution.  I  saw  what  I  ]>re- 
sumo  Avas  a  typical  Prince  Edvviird's 
Islander  this  morning  at  tive  o'clock,  lie 
was  standing  on  a  wharf,  full  of  patriot- 
ism and  wliisky.  The  spray  was  dasliing 
against  his  bare  Highland  legs,  iind  the 
wind  was  tossing  tlie  scant  locks  on  Ids 
uncovered  liead,  while  he  was,  in  tlie 
most  solemn  manner,  singing  ''(Jod  Save 
the  Queen." 

THE   I.EI'EHS    OF   THACADIE. 

Yesterday,  I  saw  the  most  miserable, 
hopeless. wretched  wreck  of  iiumanity  tlial 
I  liave  ever  looked  on— a  leper. 

A  Inunlred  and  thirty  years  ago,  when 
Eng.and  and  France  were  at  war,  the 
Frencli  wiio  lived  on  tlie  coast  near  the 
moi  li  of  the  ^liramichi  river,  were  in 
dire  straits.  They  were  harassed  by  Eng- 
lish cruisers  tliat  ca])tnred  vessels  freiglit- 
ed  with  supplies  sent  to  their  relief.  Tiieir 
trade  in  lisli  and  furs  was  destroyed,  and 
famine  was  carrying  them  olf  bv  tlie  hun- 
dreds. A  Freiu'h  vessel,  in  an  cll'ort  to 
escape  from  an  English  cruiser,  ran  ashore 
and  was  Avrecked.  The  starving  and  al- 
most   naked    lishermen    siezed    on    tlie 


Iv 


117 


"  I    ll 


'- ,  ■ 


*.!'  ■  !■ 


h  ^ 


..'?*, 


i 

^-  '•♦■ 


m 


% 


wrc'okapjo  and,  among  otlier  things,  foUind 
many  hoxos  of  old  clot  lien.  They  thanked 
God  "nd  the  sainis  for  what  they  consid- 
ered a  hlesslnjf  and  a  manifestation  of  the 
Lord's  special  interest  in  their  welfare. 
The  supposed  hlessing^turned  out  to  be 
the  most  fearful  calamity  that  could  have 
befallen  them.  The  wrecked  vessel  had 
been  ennasred  in  the  Levant  trade,  before 
comlnu;  to  ("fuiada,  and  (he  old  clothes  had 
been  shipjx'd  at  Smyrna,  and,  as  subse- 
((uent  events  proved,  contained  the  germs 
of  the  most  fearful  disease  that  Hesli  is  heir 
to — leprosy,  '"the  unclean  disease"  of  the 
Mosaic;  record.  This  awful  malady  so()n 
broke  out  ainoii<i  the  Jialf-starved  fislu^r- 
nien  and  from  tJiat  day  to  this  there  liave 
been  lejiers  in  ('aMadsi,  and  the  same  sen- 
tence; has  been  i)ronounced  on  them  that 
the  Lord  once  instructed  Closes  to  pro- 
nounce on  the  leper  of  old:  '•lie  is  unclean 
II(!  sliall  dwell  alone;  Avithout  the  camp 
shall  ills  habitation  be." 

At  Tracadie,  there  is  a  lazaretto  in  which 
all  tlu!  lejjers  are  confined.  Leprosy  is  the 
most  hopeless  of  all  diseases  and  one  of 
the  most  loathsome.  Its  ])ro!j;ress  at  first 
is  slow,  and  the  disease  is  ])ainless:  but 
there  is  no  mistaking  the  unnatural  white- 
ness of  tlu;  skin  that  indicates  the  first 
stajxe  of  the  horrible  pbigue.  Then  it  is 
that  the  victim  must  bid  farewell  to  all 
that  is  bright,  or  inire.  or  lovable  on  earth, 
and  sufTer  a  living  death  in  the  foul  Laz- 
aretto, where,  with  others  similarly  curs,^,!, 
he  will  swell  and  rot  and  slowly  fall  to 
pieces,  until  death  ends  his  agony.  Wives 
are  forcibly  torn  from  the  embrace  of 
husbands,  and  children  are  taken  from 
their  motliers'  arms  and  consigned  to  the 
prison  hosi)ital. 

A  strange;  thing  about  this  leprosy  is 
tliat  a  healthy  mother  may  have  a  leprous 
child,  and  a  woman  in  tin;  last  stages  of 
tlu;  disease  has  been  known  to  give  birth 
to  a  child  that  grew  to  womaidiood,  and 
did  not  show  any  symptoms  of  the  lep- 
rosy. 

AVlien  tin;  skin  has  become  perfectly 
white,  the  second  stage  of  the  disease  be- 
gins, and  witii  it  comes  ])ain  and  indescri- 
bable suffering.  Yellow  spots  apjiear  all 
over  tlu;  body,  and  slowly  spread  until 
they  riui  into  one  another.  Then  the  limbs- 
swell  and  the  skin  cracks,  and  the  third 
and  )>.st  stage  begins  with  the  ap])earanc( 
of  dreadful  ulcers,  the  thickening  of  tlu 
skin,  the  distortion  of  the  features,  and 
the  dropping  off  of  joints  of  fingers  anc 
toes.  The  eiul  is  blindness,  helplessness 
corruption. 

Faugh  I  T  wish  I  had  not  seen  it.  1 
suppose  you  wish  I  hail  not  written  of  it 


118 


•tr-r'i',". 


.^; 


-i       * 


'^^■. 


^•'■, 


,f/,.' 

t 

V  '^'^'^'^ 

% 

,;.^^ 

lOGOFTHEYACHTCHAMPLAIN 

The  Cruise  Ended  and  the  Craft 
in  Winter  Quarters. 


A  Glorious    Holiday   and 
Some  of  Its  Features. 


This  IS  tlio  last  word  vviiucii  in  tlic 
log  of  tiio  yacht  Champhiin.  Tlit)  losr 
IS  going  to  be  locked  awav  in  a 
drawer,  and  no  more  entries  Vill  be 
made  in  it  until  "the  robins  nest 
again."  Tiie  trim  little  craft  Ihat  has 
carried  us  so  safely  over  and  through 
several  thousand  miles  of  smooth  and 
rough  waters,  will  be  tied  to  a  cat's- 
head,  have  her  luas's  extni'-ted.  nnd 
have  an  awning  built  over  her.  Tiius 
protected,  she  will  wait  until  ne.xt 
year,  when  she  will  again  be  prepared 
to  sail  through  summer  seas.  To-day 
my  three  monlhs'  liolidav  ends  here 
"iu  the  Acadian  land  on  the  shores 
of  the  l)asin  of  JNrinas." 

I  write  this  on  a  green  hillside,  just 
above  where  was  onee  the  village  of 
Grand   Pre,    and   at  mv   feet   lie"  the 


119 


'    il 


1 


?  i 


il 


»->■  • 


!  meadows  madt'  historic   by  Lonjrfcl- 
I  low,  and  where  in  tlie  years  long  gone 
I  were  flie   "tliatrli-rooh'd  village,  the 
home    of    Acadian  farmers."     Uelow 
nu',  stretching  to  the  water's  edge,  are 
I  thousands  of  acres  of  meadow  land, 
!  reclaimed  from  the  sea  by  the  French 
I  immigrants    who    came    here    in  the 
I  early  part  of  the  .17th  century.     They 
I  weni    an    industrious  people.      T*'.iey 
built  dykes  to  keep  the   water  away 
from    rich,    alluvial  land,    on    which 
they  raised  immense  crojis   of  grain, 
much  of  which  tlieV  exi)orted  to  Bos- 
ton.    They  weie  a  contented  people, 
I  sinipl"    in   tiieir  li)d)its   and   jilain    in 
I  their  mode  of  living.     In  the  frequent 
wars   between    France   and  England, 
they  took  up  arms  against   the  Fng- 
1  lisli.     "When  Nova  Scotia  was   ceded 
i  to  tlie  British  the  Acadians 

I  Befused  to  Take  the  Oath  of  Allegri- 
ance. 

Thoy   outnumbered   the  Xova  Sco- 

tians,  who  were  loyal  to   tlie   English 

I  Government,   and   in   the   si\bsequent  j 

I  wars  they  fought  on  the  French   side,  j 

I  In  ITr)/)  the  Council  at   Halifax  deter-  i 

I  mined  that  the  Acadians  must   either! 

take  the  oath  of  allegiance  or  leave  the  i 

I  country.     Tiiey  were  called  together, 

and  the    alternative    was    set   l)efore 

them.     They  chose  e.xile.     Their  lands 

;  and  property  were    therefore  contis- 

i  cated,  ami  they  were  banished  to  North 

Carolina,  Virginia  and  Maryland.     All 

the  world  knows  the  sad  story  of  their 

exihi  as  told  by  Longfellow. 

Well,  our  summer  cruise  is  ended. 
What  do  I  think  of  it  and  what  do  I 
think  of  Canada. 

I  liked  it.  I  enjoyed  it.  I  recom- 
mend it  to  all  of  you  who  can  spare 
the  time  next  year  to  follow,  at  least  a 
part  of  the  way,  on  our  trail ;  but  I  do 
not  comniend  the  whole  of  it.  I  have 
seen  nuich  of  the  Province  of  Quebec, 
and  of  the  shores  of  lonely  Labrador, 
and  I  have  sailed  down  the  St.  Law- 
rence, around  Nova  Scotia  and  Prince 
Edward  Island,  and  along  the  shores 
of  New  Brunswick,  and  to-day  I  shall 
end  my  summer  cruise  at  Halifax, 
where  t  shall  leave  by  steamer  for  Bos- 


n 


120 


••^, 


/^•^ 


*Vf 


M- 


.'■^ 


„f .  V^ 


♦.♦■ 


\^^ 


^. 


^ 


v4 


ton,     A  jrrand  liolidiiy  and  a  ploasnnt 
tinu'wc  Jiiive  had.sailiiijftlirough  river 
and  lake  and  sea.     Mimt   enjoyable   it 
was  at  first.  Throupii  Lake  Ciianiplain, 
down  tlie  Ilielielien,  li>to  tlie  Si.  Law- 
rence, and  down  tiiat   j.neat    river  as 
far  as  Qnebeo,  and  bevond  that  to  the 
Safiuenay.     Tiiat  was  good.     All  of  it 
was  good.     So  far  tin-re  was  ii<  ver  a 
more  enjoyable  yaclitinireruise  :  grici: 
!  lawns  slojiinu;  awiiy  back  from  tiie  riv- 
jer;  grand  old  woods  of  liendock  and 
;  spnice.  l)alsam  and  Itireli :  rool  sjirinirs 
,  in  sunlit  glades  ;  (juiet  bays  wlu  re  lish 
were  ])lenty,  and  wliere,  lying  at   an- 
ciior.  we  rested  and  I'oinancecl 

1         And  Built  Castles  in  the  Air. 

Such  a  tri])  T  eoniinend  to  you.  Tlie 
historic  jjcaks  of  tiie  Adirondacks,  the 
pastoral  scenery  of  tlie  ujiper  St.  Law- 
rence and  liie  wild  and  desolate  clitrs 
and  crags  of  tlu'  Saguenay  arc  surely 
I  worth  seeing. 

liut  I  never  again  want  to  sail  down 
the  lower  St.  1-awrcnce,  or  along  the 
gulf  coast.  It  is  a  wretched,  cold,  in- 
hospitable, barren  <'Ountry— a  dreary 
monotony  of  bleak  lu'adlands.  rocky 
inlets,  and  fishing  villages,  where  the 
inhabitants,  when  not  trying  to  catch 
codfish,  are  fighting  starvation.  Don't 
go  there.  You  will  see  nothing  but 
people  who  mangle  the  old  time  Frencli 
language,  priests  who  liveon  tiie  laiior 
:  of  tliese  people,  pitiful  strips  of  lialf 
cultivated  land,  ciiurches  in  number 
far  beyond  the  necessities  of  the  popu- 
lation, and  rocks  and  liideous  shoals 
that  are  monuments  to  tliousands  of 
I  the  shipwrecked  dead  of  three  cen- 
turies. 

Like    Canada?    Yes,   I  like    it.     I 
like  the  good  Canadians  we  met — like 
them  for    their  iiospitality  and  tlK'ir 
;  kindness  to  us.    I  lilie  the  country  for 
I  its  coolness  in  summer  and  its   pict- 
i  uresqueness  in  winter,  but  I  do  not 
1  want  to  annex  it  to  the  United  States. 
The  man  is  ti  fool  Avho  will  say  tiiat  it 
;  will  not  some  day  form  a  i>art   of  the 
'  greatest  republic  on  earth.      A  Con- 
gress at  Washington  will  govern  Can- 
ada some  day,  but   I  doubt  if  we  or 
any  of  our  sons  siiall  have  any  part  in 
that  government.     1  surely  think  that 
our  grandchildren  will.     It  will  come 
about  and  be  consummated  gradually 
,  and  of  necessity,  but  meanwhile  there 


121 


.w#t^ 


I'   I 


i:;|;  i. 


is  no  reason  why  tho  two  countries 
should  not  exist  and  be  prosperous  I 
under  separate  governments.  Four, 
fifths  of  tlie  people  of  Canada  to-day 
would  vote  in  favor  of  commercial 
union  with  the  United  States.  Pour- 
fifths  would  vote  against  annexation. 
This  is  merely  my  opinion,  based  on 
what  I  have  seen  and  heard,  and  what 
representative  Canadia9B  have  told 
me. 

How  did  I  like  yachthigV  Well,  I 
have  traveled  on  almost  everything, 
from  an  Irish  jaunting  car  to  a  camel's 
hump ;  have  crossed  continents  on  the 
deck  of  a  canal  boat  and  on  board  of  a 
bucking  broncho,  but  no  means  of 
locomotion  have  I  ever  enjoyed  as 
much  as  I  did 

Sailing  on  the  Ohaxuplaln. 

To  see  a  country  and  enjoy  a  holiday, 
a  yacht  is  imquestionably  the. best 
vehicle. 


122 


.  tk 


h 


THE  YACHT  CRUISE  ENDED. 

ReyiliDg  the  Alleged  Pleasures  of 
Yachting. 

KNOX'S    LETTER. 


Some  of  the  Trials  of  a  Humorist— Fartinic 
withthe  Yacht. 

Yacht  Ciiamim.ain.— Tliis  is  tlic  last  day 
of  my  yachtinu;  cniisc  this  suiiuncr,  aiicl. 
as  this  is  the  last  kitcr  that  I  shall  w  rite 
to  you  for  sour-  time,  and  wishinir  to 
part  witliout  any  liard  tVcliiiics  or  nii'siin- 
derstanding  on  cither  side.  I  beg  to  make 
tlie  following  persona!  statement: 

I  distinctly  object  to  being  considered 
a  humorist.  Of  course  tiiose  wIk)  know 
ine  best— you,  my  friendly  readers,  and 
my  creditors  for  iiistancc — 'are  well  aware 
of  tiie  fact  that  I  am  not  a  Immorist,  and. 
heaven  knows,  never  claimed  to  be. 

The  fact  tliat  I  have  been  associated  in 
business  with  more  tlnin  one  humorist  has 
somehow  led  to  the  erroneous  belief  that 
I  am  so  full  of  facctiousness  that  I  have 
only  to  turn  a  faucet  and  it  flows  out  of 
nie.  I  know  that  there  are  many  people 
now  on  earth,  with  whom  I  am'  not  ae- 
(juainted,  who  will  go  down  to  their  silent 
sarcophagi  hugging  the  delusion  that  I 
am  so  surcharged  with  humor  that  I  have 
to  get  up  in  the  night  to  give  it  opportu- 
nity to  escape,  and  that  I  often  wake  up 
the  hired  man  at  2  a  m.  to  tell  him  a  new- 
laid  joke. 

There  are  others  who  think  that  because 
I  come  from  Texas  I  shoidd  wear  long 
hair,  have  a  bowie  in  my  boot,  and  a 
revolver  in  each  pocket.  On  meeting  me 
for  the  lirst  time  these  people  fed  that 
they  have  been  imposed  u))on.  and  that  I 
am  not  what  they  had  a  right  to  expett, 
nor  all  that  I  should  be.  ()n  being  intro- 
duced to  a  Vermont  man,  recently,  he  ex- 
pressed himself  as  feeling  actually  liurt 
because  I  did  not  begin  shooting  a't  him. 

When  the  stranger  to  whom  I  have  been 
introduced  gets  through  w  ith  me  he  walks 
sadly  away  and,  when  he  gets  around  the 
corner,  tells  his  friends  that  I  am  more 
or  less  of  a  brass-mounted  fraud. 

The  disajipointment  of  these  strangers 
reminds  me   of    that  of    the   man   from 


if 


]2.3 


.f 


:l    1 


!  1' 


Poibink,  wlio  wont  up  to  Boston  to  licar 
Mark  Twain  Ifcturc.  Uv  j^f't  iiito«thc 
wronj;  liall  wIutc.  for  two  hoiirs,  he  list- 
ened to  l{ev.  Joe.  ('.)i  k,  thinkinjj  ail  the 
time  tliat  it  was  Twain  who  was  speakinjj. 
Tiien  he  went  i)aek  to  Podwnk  on  tlie  inicl- 
nij^ht  train.  Next  morning  a  Poduuker 
met  him. 

"Heen  to  lioHting,  Iliram?" 

"Vaj)."  • 

'•To  iiear  Twain  lecture?" 

"Yap." 

"An'  did  ye  hoar  him?" 

"Why.  course  I  did.  That's  what  I 
went  for." 

"War  he  funny'c", 

"Wall,  y-e-e-sj  he  war  funny,  but  he 
warnt  so  noshed  darned  funny." 

It  is  a  iireat  misfortune  to  net  the  rej)!!- 
tation  of  heiiii;  funny.  The  luifortunate 
rreature  so  altlieted  is  to  he  pitied.  Peo- 
l)le  staiul  around  with  their  mouths  ajar 
ready  to  lauuh  when  he  speaks,  and  should 
he  fail  to  exude  seintillalint!;  nems  of  idi- 
ocy at  every  tick  of  tlu'  clock  they  say  he 
is  an  overrated  Inunbuji.  Even  the  pro- 
fessional humorist,  who  makes  aliviuir  by 
restoring  okl  jokes  of  the  jil'if'"'  ei)och 
ami  by  blowinu;  life  into  the  mummied 
dust  of  the  jests  of  the  hilarious  past, 
sull'ers  much  at  the  hands  of  the  thought- 
less throng  that  he  nu'ets  in  his  daily 
walks.  They  haul  him  into  gilded  sal- 
oons, and,  after  forcing  expensive  refresh- 
ments on  him,  try  to  seduce  him  to  sa\' 
something  funny.  It  would  be  no  more 
impertinent  to  ask  the  dentist  they  may 
happi'u  to  meet  at  a  club  to  entertain  the 
com|)any  by  pulling  a  tooth,  or  to  recpiest 
a  broker  to  broke  for  their  amusement. 

Now,  while  I  have  your  ear,  or  to  be 
exact,  your  eye,  1  wish  to  tell  you  of 
another  grievance  I  have.  I  like  to  tell 
my  grievances  to  people  who  cannot  talk 
back  to  nui  and  tell  me  of  bigger  ones  that 
they  are  afflicted  with. 

There  is  another  popular  fallacy  that 
places  me  in  a  false  light,  and  causes  me 
nuiiiy  a  sleepless  lunch  hour.  It  consists 
of  !i  widespread  belief  that  I  possess  more 
of  that  moral  quality  called  cheek  than 
usually  falls  to  tlu.'  lot  of  the  average  poor, 
weak  worm  of  the  dust.  It  originated  in 
tliia  wise:  I  once  wrote  to  u  Western 
editor,  an('  asked  him  to  insert  in  his 
"valuable  ami  widely  read  journal"  a 
notice  or  criticism  of  the  production,  in 
New  York,  of  a  play  that  I  and  an  acccmi- 
plice  had  written.  The  notice  was  only 
about  a  cohunn  in  length,  and  I  had  taken 
the  pains  to  write  it  myself.  I  always 
write  my  own  notices  because  you  never 


■*fk 


»  1"' 


121 


t 


I* 


..I 

■u 

i 


-  »■'■ 


t 


■^4' 


know  the  editor  personally,  yet  I  address- 
ed him  in  ii  cordiul  and  fiimiliar  way,  just 
as  I  would  an  equal,  and  I  tuld  liiin  that 
he  was  at  liberty  to  jam  the  notice  into 
any  vacant  corner  of  the  paper  (editorial 
page  preferred),  "no  questions  asked  uud 
no  money  to  change  hands."  The  follow- 
ing is  what  he  wrote  me  in  l"eply: 

'Sir:— If  I  liad  your  cheek  I  •would  have 
it  stuffed.  Tom  Ochiltree  claims  to  have 
more  cU«ek  than  any  man  in  the  United 
States.  He  has  probably  never  met  you. 
If  you  should  ever  scoot  across  my  path 
I  would"  like  to  take  you  up  the  gulch  to 
some  quiet  nook  where  we  could  compare 
cheeks,  and  where  I  could  learn  on  the 
dead  quiet  how  you  manage  to  keep  out 
of  jail." 

Now  wasn't  that  unkind?  Ever  since, 
when  that  varlet  needs  a  few  lines  to  fill 
out  a  column,  he  puts  in  something  sup- 
posed to  be  "cute  and  cunning"  about  my 
cheek  and  sends  me  a  marked  copy  of  his 
paper. 

All  of  this  goes  to  show  that  the  press 
molds  public  opinion,  and  that,  even  when 
it  has  a  chattel  mortgage  on  it,  it  can  make 
or  mar  a  reputation. 

Well,  the  first  section  of  our  yachting 
cruise  is  ended,  the  Champlain  is  securely 
tied  to  a  wooden  post,  and  I  am  about  to 
say  good-by  to  tl>e  little  craft  that  has 
safely  carried  me  for  almost  three  months; 
iSlvl  has  jolted  all  that  was  bilious  out  of 
my  system,  and  under  whose  cabin  cover 
I  have  done  more  restful  sleeping  and 
enjoyable  eating  than  I  ever  did  before  in 
the  same  length  of  time.  When  I  leave 
her  I  shall  miss  much  that  I  had  become 


\'ir> 


T 


III 


;   i» 


I      1 


i  1  ' 


'ti! 


1    t   t' 


acpiistninod  to  while  mi  iHninl.  T  may  not 
uiiiiin  for  sonic  I'mK'  drink  ('(tlTcf  out  of  a 
sinivini;  iiiu<;,  nor  hnnip  my  linid  iii;iiiiist 
ol)trnsivt'  lotikcrs  and  Itcams,  nor  cat 
biscuits  tliat  arc  l)urncd  on  the  top  and 
Inivc  to  l)c  scal|)cd  l)cforc  )>cinjj  eaten, 
and  I  won't  find  salt  water  in  my  L'/avv; 
neitlier  sinili  I  Initlon  my  shirt  v.ith  a 
))iece  of  tarred  rope  for  many  a  Ion;;  day 
to  (lime.  Instead  of  tliat  I  shall  soon 
discard  my  seafarinii  clothes,  and.  in  the 
f^arh  of  clvili/ation,  mingle  aijain  with  my 
fellow-man  on  the  front  ])latform  of  a 
horse  car.  and  the  jinjile.  and  rattle  and 
noise  of  city  streets  will  take  thy  l)lace  of 
the  sound  of  rlp|)lini;  water  an<l  moanlnj; 
wind  on  river  and  lake  and  sea.  I  shall 
like  the  chaniic.  hut  I  know  I  shall  always 
look  hack  with'  pleasure  to  the  many 
pleasant  days  that  we  sailed  on  summer 
seas.  We  experienced  hut  few  hardships 
on  tl»e  trip,  and  we  met  with  much  that 
was  very  enjoyable.  Of  course,  to  Inivc 
to  ^et  up  in  tlie  middle  watches  of  a  damp, 
dark  nii^ht.  wlieii  a  irale  was  blowing,  an(i 
help  to  haul  in  an  anchor  or  ])ush  u  lea 
shore  olT  our  bows  with  a  riO-cent  boat- 
hook  was  at  th(i  time  considered  a  tou^h 
experience,  but  time  ,.nd  distances  have 
mellowed  its  toughness,  and  to  me  it  has 
now  all  the  seeming  of  an  agreeable, 
unique  and  interestin<f  episode. 

It  is  a  uootlly  thiiij;,  isn't  it,  that  our 
memory  retains  with  much  more  tenacity 
our  pleasant  than  it  does  our  unpleasant 
experiences.  We  remember  the  pleasures 
and  joys  loii!?  after  wc  liave  forgotten  the 
pains  and  sorrows  of  the  i)ast  When  we 
think  of  our  boyhood  we  remember  the 
glorious  summer  bathing  in  the  willow 
margined  i)()nd  down  by  the  mill,  while 
we  forget  the  going  supperless  to  bed  in 
the  cold,  dark  winter  nights.  We  remem- 
ber the  joyoiis  ramble  in  the  woods,  or  up 
the  mountain  side,  while  we  forget  the 
|)ainful  sore  toe  and  the  cheerless  mumps. 
'Tis  well  that  it  is  so. 

Our  whoh^  cruise  was  a  briglit  and 
pleasant  lioliday,  uiade  so  to  )t  great 
extent  by  the  hos|>itality  and  attentions 
of  the  good  Canadian  peojde  It  was  our 
fortune  to  meet. 

Enjoyable,  too,  was  the  writing  of  the 
letter  to  you  once  a  week,  telling  you  of 
some  of  tlit!  noteworthy  incidents  of  the 
voyage.  Although  you  never  <inswered 
any  of  my  letters  I  bear  you  no  ill-will, 
and  I  hope  some  day  to  have  opportunity 
to  write  to  you  again. 

.].  AliMOY   Kxox. 


4 


f. 


.'t 


:h.    ' 


..'^J' 


126 


I        ; 


PUBLISHERS'    DEPARTMENT. 


-*: 


">'jf 


f 


..  I 


•^ 


iL-^ 


A   S1M.KN»1I>    ESTABLISHMKNT. 


IVIr.  J<  II.  JoIiiimImii^h  !\«'U  Fla«-i'  <»n 
l'nloiiNqiiar«>,  N4>«v  Vork— DIuiiioikIm, 
Jewelry  and  Nllv«*r\«ar«>. 

Thi'R"  is  prolialily  no  iimii  in  Nrw  \i>vk  so 
well  known  inMividuiiily  in  c'linni-ctiun  witli  tho 
hiuiillinti  of  (iiitnionds,  watclics,  jcwcirv  luid 
Hilvcrwiire,  uh  Mr.  J.  H.Joiinhtov.  Im.i  liiirly- 
fonr  yciirs  lit'  hun  coiwliictcd  a  liiivi'  cstaiilisli. 
ini'iit  at  {lio  coriKT  of  tlu'  Dowcry  and  Uroonio 
street,  iinil  the  customers  of  that  cstalplisiiiMcnt 
ure  to  lie  found  literally  all  ovit  the  world, 
fliiring  all  of  these  Um\i  yt'ars  Mr.  Jolmslon  lias 
sustained  a  most  lionorahle  reputation,  alisolnte 
ue<;uraey  of  representation  in  repird  to  tho 
goods  offered  being  one  of  the  fundamental  and 
noviT-departed-from  rules  of  the  estai)lisliment. 
But  at  last  •' the  uptown  march  ol'  trade"  has 
carried  Mr.  .rohusion  along  with  it.  and  'riflaiiy 
now  has  a  Union  sipiare  rival.  <  Mi  the  o|)posite 
Fifteenth  street  eorm-r,  where  the  old  Hank  of 
the  Metropolis  used  to  he.  Mr.  .lolinston  has 
opened  a  really  magniticeut  estahlishment.  In 
fuct  it  may  be  considered  the  most  lieaiitifully 
fitted  up  store  in  the  whole  city  of  Ni'W  York, 
and  especially  in   this   line  of  husiness.     The 

j  magnilicent  show  ea.ses  extend  from  the  floor  to 
the  ceiling,  and  with  the  e(|ually  handsome 
centre  show  cases,  are  valued  at  $17,000.  In 
these  cases  and  throughout  the  store  is  dis- 
played a  rarely  handsome  and  complete  stock 
of  diamonds,  watches,  jewelry  and  silverware — 
all  offered  at  prices  (hat  are  a  vcritahle  revela- 
tion to  Union  s<piare. 

There  is  not  a  liner  or  more  reliable  stock  of 
such  goods  in  tho  United  States  than  this  i.s. 
When  that  is  said  all  is  said  that  can  be  said — 
even  though  one  were  to  print  columns  of  lauda- 
tion. Mr.  Johnston  takes  i)ers(jnal  charge  of 
tins  uptown  palace  of  luxury,  ably  assisted  by 
his  staff  of  salesmen.  The  down-town  cstJib- 
lishment  is  still  contumed,  under  the  manage- 
ment of  Mr.  Albert  .lohnston,  the  son  of  the 
proprietor.  There  is  iif)  doul)t  but  the  Union 
square  establishment  will  be  a  great  and  en- 
during success.  There  is  certainly  no  element 
lacking  that  is  necessary  to  secure  an  arrival  at 
such  a  result.  There  is  also  a  branch  house  at 
Saratoga  Springs,  at  334  Broadway,  o])en  every 

!  year  during  the  season. — .Wtc  y'ori-  Star. 


127 


4?' 


tl 


I 


I    .  I 


'        I    !   ,  111 


I  1  I  M 


Mr.  Proctor's  Curious  Slip. 

Ill  ;i  ricciil  number  of  llii'  //<///>, ■;•'.»• 
//■(•(■/•/r  Mr.  K.  A.  I'loctur,  scientist, 
•  loclniiiiirf,  iiiul  proloiind  i)iinilit  of  whist, 
u|)|>cars  lis  tin.'  pi'aclical  i)ro|)a].faii(list  of 
l()tteri(.'s.  ( )iie  rises  from  tliL-  readiiij;- of 
this  articii.'  itiKkr  a  ])uzziin;<  ami  eoiimal 
unccrtamty  whother  he  is  tin-  sahirii'd 
proctor  of  Tliu  ,  Loiiisiara  lyottcry,  or 
nioridy  the  mr)st/niotium'  iital  of  timoii- 
scious  iiumorists. 

His  ilcilaVcd  ohjcLtioii,  tin.'  iioniiiial  in- 
spiration of  iiis  homily,  is  to  cover  the  sin 
of  lotteries  with  such  obl<>i|uy,  and  show 
the  imi)ossil)ility  <>f  winniii;.^  at  them  in 
such  terms  of  demonstration,  that  thev 
will  cease  to  dec(ty  tlii'  unwary. 

And  what  is  the  outcome  and  fruit  of 
his  endeavor?  lie  has  succeedid  in 
throwini;  around  the  forbidden  jiractice  a 
halo  of  seduction.  He  has  made  lottcr\-- 
dealin^  more  attractive  than  it  ever  was 
before.  He  has  done  as  nuich  to  stimu- 
late the  buyinj.^  ot'  lottery  tickets  as  the 
winiiiu).^  of  the  capital  ])rize  by  a  well- 
known  citizen.  He  has  made  himself 
more  valual)le  to  the  Louisiana  Lolterv 
than  a  regiment  of  avowed  arh'ocates. 
He  demonstrates  the  absurdity  of  e.xpect- 
in.n'  to  win,  abolishes  "  luck  "  as  an  ele- 
ment in  the  alVairs  of  men,  and  then,  as  a 
practical  commentary  on  his  doctrine, 
tells  us  that  he  had  made  but  two  ex])eri- 
menlsin  lottery  matters,  and  in  each  case 
had  won  a  "  goodly  prize." 

It  is  hardly  credible,  except  from  Mr. 
Proctor's  own  li])s.     Listen  to  liim: 

"  In   ])assini;-,  I   may  remark  t/iat  if  I 
l>t'lii-,iiii  ill  luck   [  sliouhi  crrtiiiiily  be 
*  ttiiiplcd  to  I'l-ntiirr  in  soi/ir  c/  //irsr  /c/- 

/i-riis;  for  tu>i(i\  tlioui^/i  uOt  fyni  de- 
sire for xiii/i/>/i)i^\i^oi>is,/ /id^'c  tritd  iny 
I  III  f:  {as  the  foolish  ones  put  it)  in  lot- 
teries, and  each  time  1  have  luon  a 
i^'^oodlv  prize." 

Thfnk  of  arjjuini;  a  man  out  of  buyiiij;^ 
a  lottery  ticket  on  the  theory  that  there 
was  no  such  thin.v;  as  luck,  after  telliny 
him  vou  had  only  tried  the  experiment 
twice  and  had  won  both  times.  He  de- 
clares that  li-h.nin,i^  has  no  existence, 
and  then  admits  ti  it  he  has  been  struck 
by  it  twice,  'i'he  'inconscious  humor  of 
see  my  ditfic^iU^  .  And  then  as  to  my 
the  tliinj^  :>  unique,  irruptive,  and 
spheral.  The  avarai:;e  man  actuated  by 
the  averat^e  natural  desire  to  j;et  rich  by 
a  short  cut,  will  recollect  Mr.  Proctor's 
demoralizing;-  examijle  and  utterly  forget 
Mr.  Proctt, .■'.'.  ;-,  ..laliznijj;  precepts. — AVu' 
( Orleans  T iiiies-Deiiiocrat. 

128 

^'OVA    SCOT' A jY A 

L!;5;^\r-:y  of 

THE  DEPARi  AiiiiN  1  OF  EDUCATION 


CURES 

>N8VMPTI0IV. 
(^LD8.    A8THMA. 
ri8.    DEBILITY. 
DISBAeBa.  bM  all 
7LOIJ8  HUMORS. 

I  palatable  a«  OKam.  It  can  Im>  taken  with 
I  delicate  penona  and  children,  who,  after 
omevenrrondof  It.  It  amimllatee  with  the 
lee  the  fleah  and  appetite,  builds  up  the  ner- 
,  restore*  energy  to  mind  and  body,  creates; 
1  pure  blood,  in  fact,  rejuvlnates  the  whole 


ILBOR'S 

COMPOUND  OF 


Pure  Cod  Liver  Oil  And  Phospuates 


II  hn.1  r«  uiilnMl  iniirh  es|M-rlenc«*  ami 
ran'  tunnablf  tliK  |ir(i|ir1et4ir  U>  combine 
tht'  oil  uml  PhrmphttU'NiM)  that  they  would 
b<-c<iiii<-  tliomuKhly  rftloaclous  together, 
and  III'  lioN  the  only  n-c-lpe  by  which 
thiH  I'an  be  acvoniplMh»<l.  Another  Ini 
iMtrtaia  udvantaiie  which  the  Pure  CinI 
I.I  ver  Oil  posseiMR  prepared  in  this  way, 
over  th«-  plain  cod  liver  oil,  is  the  fact 
that  iM-tildeH  adding  largely  to  Its  meti- 
leal  qualities.  It  preserves  tlif  oil  pure 
and  Rweet  for  a  lonfer  period 
than  It  can  Im>  dorte  iii  any 
other  manner.  This  fact 
alone  would  lecnnimend  this 
form  of  using  the  OII«ven  if 
the  phosphates  did  net  also 
itdd  vastly  to  the  healing 
uualltlrsof  the  preparation. 
The  perfei-t  Incorporation  of 
tbe  phostdiates  with  thec<Nl 
ilverollhasonly  beenacooni 
plliibetl  by  the  adoption  of 
the  most  perfect 
rules  of  chemlstnr; 
and  a  medicine 
hiis  lM>en  produit- 


ed  which,  while  It 
Is  so  efilcaclous,  l>r 
also  perfectly  pal-  , 
atabie  and  pleaa>  ' 
ant. 


BT^OOD, 


atlon  is  far  superior  to  all  other  preparations  of  CodLlvcr 
-~iy  imitators,  but  no  equals.  The  results  following  Itx  line 
.iimmennatlons.  Be  sure,  as  you  valuejrour  health,  andvet 
Manufactured  only  by  DA,  ALBXR.  B.  WlLROit, 
slon,  Mass.  Send  for  Illustrated  circular,  which  will  bu 
nevoid  by  all  drugglsts..iE|. 


is  said  bj  the  PresH. 

iiig  is  from  TAe  A^,    V.    U'oHd, 
A  of  newspapordom : 

^rry's  new  dkpabture. 

A.  Perrj',   tlie  genial,   obliging, 
ifood-natured,    irrepressible,   good- 
fa,  experienced,  savoir-faire,    all- 
nde-awake  yard-wide-and-all-wool 
!it  Hudnut's  dispensary  has  taken 
Ihe  room  in  the  Sun  Building    re- 
lied by  Hitchcock,  the  music  man, 
an  open  a  drug  store  on  his  own 
jte  will  keep  open  at  night,  and  the 
[boys  who  have  depanded  on  the 
years  for    brain    restoratives  Vill 
^llow  the  man  who  has  the  prescfip- 
hme  awaits  the  doctor.   He  deserves 
jRs  of  newspaper  boys :     "  So  say  we 


BROWN'S 

FRENCH 

DRESSING 

FOK 

LADIES'  &  OHILDSEH'S 
BOOTS  AND  SHOES. 

Awarded  highest  honori  at 
1876 


PhUa 

Berlin, 

Paris, 


1877 
1878 


Melbourne,  1880 
Frankfort,  1881 
Amsterdam,  1883 


New  Orleans,  1884-«5, 

Pari*  Medal  on  every  bottle. 

Beware  of  Imtteilong. 


V 


•«■•.' 


^   .■■!< 


.    \ 


■■"■■  ":^. 
'   /•■■ 


I 


/^•V     ;• 


/ 


./■  •  > 


>.r. 


[HE  CHICA80 


WU.  TAM  YOU  ONtCCT 


NORTH-WESTERN 


^  FROM  CHICAGO  TO 

ST.  PAUL.  COUNCIL  BLUFFS,  PORTLAND, 

MADISON,  THE  BLACK  HILLS,  DBS  MOINES. 

DULUTH,  MINNEAPOLIS,  MILWAUKEE 

OMAHA.  CEDAR  RAPIDS,  SALT  LAKE, 


CALIFORNIA. 


/r. 


The  Chicago  uid  Nonh*Wts:tra  Railway  embracca  over  7,000  miles  of  sul> 
•Utnlialty-builti  thoroughly-equipped,-  first-class  railway,  penetrating  the  centreff 
'ol  popul^tiOQ  and  passing  through   the  important  commercial'  cities  of  eight, 
imtes  »od  terntones.  ^ 

T9  California  eicursionists' o(  all  classes  the  North-Westem  oilers  (he  oosi 
substantial  attractions. 

-  Infor;natioa  in  fullest  details  can  be  secured  from  the  Cjupon  Agents  of  all 
nilwaya,  or  from  the  General  Passenger  Agent  of  the  CHICAGO  AND 
NORTH-WESTERN  RAILWAY  at  Chicago, 


EUAHERICAN    PVERLAND     EXPRESJeXt 


i.  M.  WHITMAN,       H.  e.  WICMR,       C.  P.  Wf  LtOM, 


IVa^*  Mftnt.         0*M.  ri 


tr 


.w  « 


viujffl*^    ;v.i»t; 


#•■ 


